I am pretty sure that either a complete set of heads or a set of new valves and guides are at the top of the list... I am not betting on those being in your garages, but I have seen crazier things happen. Other than that, I think that I have everything that I will need other than the combined intellect and troubleshooting skills you all have...
So here is where I am going to eat some crow for dinner... What I didn't do before to make my life much, much, much easier (and I really couldn't because of the environment I was working in) was remove the rear deck lid and drop the top. What a world of difference this makes with regards to getting access to the tough parts. I am still convinced that I can improve the cooling system connections, but this is probably the best decision I made to get in there this time. Dropping the top is so helpful that it is reason alone to buy a spider. Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk
Well the engine is out. Couple of things. 1. Turning the scissor lift side ways made it easy to remove the engine, very easy in fact.. 2. You can do it as a one person job, believe it or not. Would have been easier with help. 3. Standard garage has plenty of height to make it happen... In reality, this was easier than the two post lift in Guam. Now on to the post-mortem and getting the heads rebuilt. Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk
Forgot about the picture. Found the water leak too. Broken reservoir hose. Image Unavailable, Please Login Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk
Adding to the fun, metal shavings in the coolant system... Ya, I am betting that the impeller was machining itself... Not gonna catch a break on this deal... I was wondering whether or not to rebuild the bottom end (no signs yet of problems) but I still have not gotten the heads off yet... I don't think that I am going to like what I see in there though either.
Finally got a break... No major lower end damage! But the passenger side head, full on ugly. Bent valves, trashed guides, etc. I am torn on whether to rebuild the bottom end... I am leaning towards yes. I need a plate that would allow me to measure the blow by in the cylinder... Any ideas (does anybody have anything like that?) Mark Image Unavailable, Please Login Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk
Hello Mark: I would like to know about your ramps/risers on each side of the lift? Where are they from ect? Thanks
They were just run of the mill $40/pair HF 1000# ramps. Nothing exotic or special. I actually have found that turning the lift "sideways" fits the car better for lifting it and allowing access to the rear portion of the car when it comes to dropping the engine out. The scissor lift provides more than ample lift to remove the rear subframe assembly from the car. I will likely make some modifications to the setup to achieve better balance and safety of the system as a whole, but for now it appears stable enough to work with (although a bit light on the front end). I am being picky in that I want the car to be very stable when it's in the air, more so than is probably needed. I picked up some 2 ton large safety stands which certainly make it easy to ensure that the car will not be going anywhere. 2 Ton Capacity Underhoist Safety Stand Highly recommend having a few of these in addition to the scissor lift for safety. Mark
