F355 no vaccum to by pass valve (5:2) | FerrariChat

F355 no vaccum to by pass valve (5:2)

Discussion in '348/355' started by Klas, Jun 4, 2017.

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  1. Klas

    Klas Formula Junior

    Mar 17, 2014
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    Klas Nilsson
    I discovered that I don't have vacuum to my by pass exhaust valve at any time. Anyone have ideas or experience? Can it be the solenoid valve or....? Could the vacuum tank close to the air pump be involved? Should there always be some vacuum in this tank. (The by pass valve is not stucked).
     
  2. Klas

    Klas Formula Junior

    Mar 17, 2014
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    Klas Nilsson
    #2 Klas, Jun 4, 2017
    Last edited: Jun 4, 2017
    Bypassed the solenoid valve (159177) and the vacuum to the exhaust valve came back. This means constant open exhaust by pass.
     
  3. Qavion

    Qavion F1 World Champ
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    So either the ECU is not sending a signal to open the solenoid valve at high engine rpms or the solenoid valve is faulty. In theory, with the engine off, you could take off the electrical plug of the solenoid valve and apply a voltage to the pins to open it, but I don't know if the solenoid valve makes an audible sound. If you tried it with the engine running, the ECU may sense the plug is not connected and illuminate the Check Engine light. It may depend on the type of valve.

    How were you sensing the vacuum at the bypass valve (or were you simply listening for an increase in noise when you were driving the car?)

    Experts: Is the solenoid a frequency valve? Does it modulate the vacuum by rapidly opening and closing of solenoid valve or is it just an open and hold kind of valve?
     
  4. Qavion

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    Klas, can you confirm that the correct electrical connector has been fitted to the solenoid valve? On my car, the connector is black. The connector for the Secondary Air Solenoid Valve is blue. I confirmed this by checking the wiring from the ECU to the valves.
     
  5. Qavion

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  6. taz355

    taz355 F1 Veteran
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    Its open or closed depending on computer
     
  7. Qavion

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    Thanks, Grant.

    I was thinking of the kind of valves which control turbo wastegates which provide a varying pressure. These report back to the engine ECU if the solenoid is faulty. I'm not sure if the open/closed type does this.

    Cheers
    Ian
     
  8. taz355

    taz355 F1 Veteran
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    Ian do you have a WSM for your car it explains it quite well.

    Talks about all the variables.
     
  9. Qavion

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    I have, Grant, but it says (in the 2.7 section), that the solenoid "adjusts" the exhaust back pressure, so, to me, this suggests something more than fully open or fully closed. In the 5.2 section, it says less. It could be either type of control.

    Cheers
     
  10. Klas

    Klas Formula Junior

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    #10 Klas, Jun 5, 2017
    Last edited: Jun 5, 2017
    Measured the female (yes the black one) connector with ignition on and it's giving 6V. 0V with ignition off, so signal is there. Also blew into the two valve vacuum connectors witn an extension vacuum hose and with ignition on/off the valve did not change mode, so it must be faulty otherwise it would be a difference when blowing. Bought another valve cheap today and connected 12V in my test bench to it and it seams to work as it passed my blow test (not blow job he-he). There is also a small click in it and when I did the blow test, so it serms to work.

    Untill I install this new valve I connected vacuum directly to the exhaust bypass valve, so now it's constant open as soon there is enough vacuum in the accu tank. The car sounds a bit louder now and that's not too bad.
     
  11. Qavion

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    I'm not really sure I understand your test results, Klas.
    I'm wondering why you only got 6V to the connector. There should have been 11~12 (that is, battery power). Putting the ignition on alone should not activate the valve unless there is also a signal from the ECU to open the valve. Does the ECU open the valve with the ignition switch in RUN/ON (before start) and START, to assist with the engine starting process? My old Lotus Esprit used to do this in the START position with the Exhaust Back Pressure Valve.

    Anyway, thanks for the update. It's good to know it makes an audible click.

    Cheers
     
  12. taz355

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    Ian the amount of vacume determines open, closed partway open all way, etc.

    If i am in 4 gear with light throttle and start to accelarate when I hear the valve start to open if I back off a bit it will maintain partial opening, if I floor it it opens and if i backout of it it closes.

    The way I read it the computer decides whether the solenoid is allowing vacume or not then the vacume has to overcome the spring on the valve which can be manipulated by throttle possition.
     
  13. Qavion

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    Thanks, Grant, but that may take me a while to digest :D I'm trying to factor in rpm, throttle position, reservoir vacuum storage ... then introducing the effect of the US/Australian bypass temperature sensor and Italian translations (It took me a while to figure out that a "remote controlled switch" in the wiring diagrams was just a common "relay")

    Cheers
     
  14. Klas

    Klas Formula Junior

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    You are right about the signal. I have 6V when ignition is on, but don't know right now if I get an ECU signal to cut or change the voltage to the valve when driving. (Havn't tested yet)
     
  15. Qavion

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    The solenoid valve is just a simple electromagnetically activated device powered by the ignition key (in RUN). There are no resistors/transformers in the line, so the reading should be 11~12 volts. If you're getting 6 volts, your battery is flat. With the car running, the voltage at the connector plug should go up slightly (the alternator is providing power).

    My coil was 55 ohms. To me, this seems good. The coil on the electromagnet is not open circuit or completely short circuited. If the coil is ok, all that can stop the valve is a blocked airway or the plunger is jammed... or the valve is not getting an earth signal from the ECU

    There is no easy way to check the voltage with the connector fitted to the valve and the car running. I wasn't expecting you to do this. I wasn't expecting you to check the signal from the ECU, either (I was just curious about the operation). ;)

    Cheers,
     

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