On the other side of the board the large pins(that connect to the harness on the outside) are directly connected to the opposite side of the component youre talking about. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Wikipedia and the number of 1997 F1's for sale suggest otherwise. There's a partial registry here: https://ferrari355registry.com/registry?sort=vin&dir=asc&search=&year[0]=1997&drive=&transmission=&model=&page=8
I read through all 152 post and the right people are trying to help. Lots of good info, theories and testing. But (!), I want to go back to sitting for 7 months and now nothing works. Please advise the last time you drove it? How it behaved and what you did immediately after driving and while it has been sitting. My understanding is if you are using the SD1 to shift and control, it is allowing direct access to the TCU. According to you, you went to start car, display shows two level dashes and no N for neutral or no gear select. A new unit shows the exact same thing. Then you are barking up the wrong tree and must go back to the very beginning. The cars rarely if ever fail this way from “sitting.” Pump issues, pressure balls, etc, etc. Yet, up until recently we know the car could shift. I had a similar issue with my 360. Dashes on display and no start or selector/paddle response. But if I really pushed on the brake pedal hard, it worked. Even though I had brake lights, etc. The amount of force needed to get car started and the TCU to report back what it “wanted to see” was strictly a matter of how hard I pressed the brake pedal. It allowed the car “see neutral” when pulling both paddles back and to “wake-up” and display N. I wish I could video and show you, but sold the car. I would check all related relays, fuses and output of brake switch/pins. I think maybe shoes or something get up in pedal wiring or they fail or something is not “seen” as requested by the TCU. I really think it is an ahah moment or super simple based on the outcome of two displays and the just sitting. You are taking the car apart, disturbing wiring etc that does not just “fail” while sitting. Maybe you have done more damage now or hurt the TCU (hopefully not.) We know these cars are not the most robust in wiring but having owned 9 them and 3 F1’s my issues were always hood or bonnet “pins” or brake pedal related, always. Subscribed to hopefully see the solution. Cheers! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Hi Rob. Yes, I completely agree the people here are so amazing and knowledgeable. I would not have gotten this far without them. I am truly grateful to everyone here. Honestly I don't remember how it drove before I had put it into storage. As in I don't remember if there were any issues. I had a lot going on at that time and the 355 was the least of my concerns. I think it sat untouched with its cover on for more than 7 months. Unfortunately I had not turned on the battery kill switch under the hood. So the battery gradually drained out and died. Put a new battery in since then and have not left the kill switch off(no supply to the car) even if it was for a day. Yes no shifting but the car starts, idles and revs properly. Also one issue I had after I fired up the car after the long break is the idle was a little rough. Upon pressing the throttle slightly the car would shut off. I replaced the spark plugs to see if that would rectify the issue but no luck. It stayed that way for about 2 days. I unplugged the engine ECU behind the driver seat(with the battery disconnected), used a bit of isopropyl on the connectors and dried it off with lightly pressurised air and reconnected it and it became fine after that. Is there a procedure to get a new unit paired or coded or whatever you might call it, to the car? Maybe I could try that. Also I wanted to clarify that I don't need to press down the brake pedal to get the car started and also with the ignition on and engine off I don't think I need to press the brake pedal in order to get it to shift(please note that I have tried pressing down on the brake pedal and shifting but not with an incredible amount of force with the engine on and off). I should try pressing down on the brake pedal as hard as you have mentioned. I hope it is something as simple as that. I definitely hope not but I have been extremely careful with everything. I can deal with damaged wiring but replacing components on the TCU will be a headache.
If you have to push the brake pedal hard on a 355F1 there is definitely something wrong with your brake pedal switch or switch adjustment. Your switch should activate well before the brake pedal reaches the floor. It’s easy to visually check, but I would confirm with an ohmmeter. It’s still a mystery why a 360 should behave any differently. The wiring for the brake lights is spliced directly into the F1 and the Motronic ECU wiring. There are dual contacts on some of the later brake pedal switches, but the signal from that second contact is sent to the Motronic ECUs only. The dual contact switches are calibrated completely differently from the single contact type. The new type 360 “plunger” has 10 clickstops to assist with calibration. On the 360 at least, if you are in first gear, the brake pedal needs to be pushed to start the engine. Isn’t this the same for the 355F1?
Maybe just bad fuel (water in the bottom of the tank). It may seem like your car is relearning how to idle, but 355F1 Motronic ECUs shouldn’t lose their settings if battery power is lost.
You definitely have to push the brake to select neutral if stopped and even engine off If it’s in neutral then no press but need to press to switch gears even if engine off when you turn the key on the pump kicks in and a light on dash should flash about 5 to 15 times until the system pressurizes. Need neutral to start so if car is starting you are likely in neutral even though the dashes are on and tcu knows this When I had a transmission lock up between 2 and 3 gear due to engine mounts sagging and the actuator rubbing on the frame the car showed dashes and would not start because it new it was in gear with key on and would pressure up system but if system was all ready pressured up it would show dashes right away No shifting or anything once I got it home and diagnosed used a Jack and presto started working
Idle is unrelated to transmission If so will not select 6th gear but all others you have a mechanical problem as well Sometimes rocking the car a little helps with a mechanical jam due to gear position but the SRD should go through all gears
Isn't it also possible the display showed dashes because it wasn't actually in a gear? i.e. the position sensors didn't know what gear it was in. This would also explain why it wouldn't start. The car will only start if in Neutral. "between 2 & 3" is not neutral. If the display is showing dashes, how did you know it was in these gears? Did the SD tool show the engaged gear or just the command? Did you mean no start or no gearchange?
I fit the dashboard back in place including everything with it except for the instrument cluster. Thought I would try out what Rob had mentioned earlier. Press the brake down hard and try shifting. Unfortunately no luck and also no information on the gear display except the dashes. With the engine running and the brake fully depressed I held both the paddles down. After about 5 seconds of holding them down the buzzer started beeping in the car. Same thing with individual paddles. But the buzzer doesnt beep with reverse held the same way or even the auto button. The SD1 tool lets you shift into all 6 gears individually with ignition on and engine off. You can hear the actuator moving and shifting. Before I used to be able to shift into every gear. The SD1 tool would display a minimum threshold value, current threshold value and maximum threshold value. These values represent the position of the actuator rods. When the system works correctly and the correct gear is slotted the current value will be in-between min and max threshold and that's how you would know its in that gear. Also I used to go to live data or as its called by SD1 'parameters', it would show the engaged gear correctly. So for example you select the option '1st gear engagement' it will start activating the respective EV solenoids and it will cycle through the process by itself and on the last step of the cycle it displays the min, current and max values. The current value has to be between the min and max. That is not happening anymore. The current value would either be below min or above max for all gear engagements. There is an option for 'idle engagement' as well to put it in neutral. Even that does not complete properly. Only if I do the 'actuator centering' procedure it will forcibly go into neutral and I can start the car. Throughout the entire process the 2 dashes on the display never change. Also noticed one thing while I was looking at the SD1 parameters(live data), it shows the status of all switches related to the transmission and all switches cycled on and off when you would press them or activate them except the sport switch. When I press the sport switch the light in the instrument cluster turns on displaying sport but turns off as soon as I let go of the switch. It does not change the status of the switch in the parameters section though. I meant no gear change.
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Is your switch not latching in the SPORT position. i.e. is it broken? It won't affect your gear display, but it sounds like it needs attention. I suppose you could make sure that the voltage from the brake pedal is reaching the TCU on pin 4 Image Unavailable, Please Login The brake lights may be working, but poor connection at the TCU plug or on pin 13 of the Dashboard System Connector may mean the brake signal is not getting to the TCU. I see the SD tool shows brake pedal input. It's a pity you put everything back together. Thanks for explaining the SD parameters. It's a bit too complicated for me, but I'll bookmark your message thread for our future reference.
no the display somehow I believe knows what gears it is in or in between due to the position and rotation of the actuator This is how you set it and how it knows if it’s not working correctly by position when you tried the auto button you are on,y supposed to push it not HOLD it just to be clear the transmission light with the gear shift flashes when hydraulic pressure is low ‘ you are correct thought car won’t start unless in neutral
Check your actuator to be sure it is clearing the frame and your engine mounts are not sagging Look for evidence of it rubbing If it looks like it might even be close to rubbing place a Jack under the center of the engine and take some weight off by jacking it about 1/2 inch up You do not need to lift it higher and the wheels should not even be close to off the ground
Please confirm after you have left the car for at least 6 hrs that the transmission light flashes with the key on but no start to confirm number of flashes This will tell us the shape of the accumulator. I know it works somewhat because I think you said the pressure earlier just want to confirm
Make sure both low friction and automatic are DISENGAGED while testing Make sure all doors and bonnets are closed
Yes it does. It also turns on and off when I actuate the brake pedal. But maybe there is another input it's reading to display the brake switch status? I will check this out as well. You were right. It was not latching correctly. Wiggled the switch a little and it started latching down again. I wanted to just fit everything back once like it how it would normally be and try out shifting and all that again.
I tried it both ways. I just pushed it once with the brake fully held down and engine on and after engine off as well. Then I held it down as well with engine on and off. All doors were fully closed. Windows rolled down. Yes I made sure that this is not happening. I had a leak in the actuator before so I had opened it up and disassembled it. Learned alot on how it works on the inside. Replaced the orings and put it back. This was done quite a few months ago though. I had a done a bench test as well. Cycling through all gears by actuating the ev solenoids.
After I leave it overnight and I come back to the car, ignition on and engine off the F1 light does not flash at all but the pump runs for about 3-4 seconds(I think I'm not 100% sure how long) but it's not very long. The F1 light comes on immediately with ignition on and stays on. There is no flashing at all.
Did you bleed the system with the sd computer after taking apart the actuator? I know very few people who have taken apart the actuator so I do not know the specifics of how to ensure there are no issues on the inside. This forum also has no one that I know of who has done that and there are few companies I know of world wide that do fix actuators. you are calling the actuator the part the pushes in and out and rotates correct? I still suspect air or the actuator is not working correctly. give us some background on why you took it apart especially yourself, is it possible at all something got missed inside?
Did you replace anything on the pump and pressure accumulator side as well 4 seconds is pretty quick indicating almost new specs
I bled the system manually first, hooked up the pump to an external supply and opened the bleed screw on the upper side of the pump body. I would let the pump only run for about 5 seconds max. A lot of air was purged. After that I did do a bleed through SD1. This was many months ago. The first time I had opened it up I had taken extensive pictures and videos of every step. Almost 50 pictures if I remember correctly. But unfortunately I lost that entire folder because I had moved it to my WDcloud and that drive failed. I had taken it apart replaced the O-rings and put it all back together. Honestly its not that complicated at all. It has a very simple internal working structure. There are 2 rods inside. There a thicker rod, which is connected to the flexible joint that you see on the outside, and a slightly thinner rod which you don't see. The thinner rod is the selection rod and the thicker rod is the engagement rod. The thinner rod is connected to the thicker rod through a mechanism that converts linear movement into rotational movement. So when the thicker rod rotates to select each gear line (1st or 2nd etc) its actually the thinner rod that is making it rotate. Then it has internal chambers that are separated from each other(by O-rings). These chambers are connected to your EV solenoids. When an EV Solenoid is actuated it pushes oil into that respective chamber and causes the rods to move. You just have to be super careful with the position probes that sit on the rear end of the actuator(I don't know what they're called exactly but I think the manual calls them potentiometers). I had to order new ones for my actuator because they were a little bent. There was nothing really wrong with mine except the leak and the probe things. But even before doing anything to it I used to be able to shift through the SD1. Yes the mechanism that slots the gears. No because I used all my pictures and videos at the time to reassemble everything. Also after I reassembled everything it used to shift as it should through the SD1. The trouble of shifting into gear even through the SD1 is from recently. No I did not replace anything on the pump side. It is pretty quick like new because this car has barely been used for the last so many years. It has only 2013kms on the odometer.
Have you looked further into why your paddles aren’t working? Have you done resistance checks on the paddles themselves? Image Unavailable, Please Login There seems to be an 8-pin plug on the paddles themselves (only 4 pins used). I'm not sure where the other plugs are shown in the diagrams. Blue is "DOWN". 5 volts in, I guess. Resistance between blue and black wire = 3900 ohms (unpushed) and zero ohms (pushed) White is "UP". 5 volts in, I guess. Resistance between white and black wire = 3900 ohms (unpushed) and zero ohms (pushed) The yellow wire seems to be for checking the validity of the circuit. Resistance between yellow and black wire = 1950 ohms (both paddles unpushed), 3900 with either left or right paddle pushed and zero ohms with both paddles pushed. You could do continuity checks between the paddles and the TCU. White wire goes to TCU pin 16, blue wire goes to TCU pin 53 and yellow wire goes to TCU pin 17.
