F355 Spider Top Replacement With Pictures

Well I finally got into this project today and got the old top removed. It was totally rotten and just shred in your hands.

It looks like I can only do a few pictures at a time so I will do several posts with explanations of the pictures and process.

FYI I have never tried to replace a convertible top before. I have stretched many headliners and done interior work in old muscle cars but nothing like this so it's a learning experience for me. Enjoy.
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I started at the front and removed the hardware. The latch handle has a roll pin that must be knocked out with a punch, then start peeling the glued on fabric off.
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I just figured out how to upload all the photos in one post but I'll stick with the way I started so I can explain the pictures better.

There are two cables on each side that run through the top fabric. They are riveted on one end and have springs on the other. I didn't realize the pictures were so blurry, I'll get better ones on the way back together. One runs down the back side of the window edge and is attached with a screw behind the weather strip. The second runs above the window and hooks on to the front metal piece. Unhook and slide them out of the top.
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Moving back from the front the top is attached to the bows by fabric that is glued around the bows and glued to the top. No stitching. My top was pretty much loose from the bows. Its also hooked on in a couple places like where your elastic straps hook on. I'll get some pictures of that when I go back together.
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The rear area:

You will need to remove all 6 of the snaps that hold the cover on and their studs. If you have unhooked the two cables and actioned the top towards the open position you will have enough slack to pull straight down at the bottom of the side window area and pull the top out of the metal track. It is just a stiff edge of fabric tucked in there. You can pull back and up on the very corner pieces and disengage the metal corner piece from under the metal track. This piece is glued into the top corner. You can pull the inside of the triangle part out too and you will just have the center below the back window left attached to the car.
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For the center attachment you will need to remove some of the interior pieces so you can get the strip right under the back window pulled forward. This piece has edges under some interior pieces on the sides that are under the top mechanism so you would have to unbolt the mechanism to get them out. I DID NOT UNBOLT THE MECHANISM. You can get the middle piece to slide far enough ahead to get at the nuts. It comes forward easier on the drivers side the passenger side because of the way the side pieces are made.

Anyway, remove all the nuts. These are on studs that are part of a metal strip that is wrapped by and glued to the top. The tips of his strip are hooked under the metal of the car so when you get it unbolted you need to push it toward the back of the car to disengage the threaded parts then lift up and pull towards you to get it out from under the track on the car.
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You should now be topless. Remove the metal corners and the strip from the canvas you will need them for the new top. Try not to bend the strip while trying to unwrap to glued fabric. (easier said then done).

This is where I left it today. All I could find in my shop was spray adhesive and I'd much rather have some brush on instead so I don't make a mess of things. I'll try to go pick some up in the morning and continue on wit the install. If there is any pictures of things you would like to see that I missed just let me know.
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The one I think you're talking about I took a pic of from both sides. It is a screw retaining clip so you could probably get the trim pulled back and replace it easy.
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I got the top from Quality Tops and Interiors on EBAY. It says HAARTZ OEM German Cloth/canvas. I guess we'll see how it fits.

When you gave the tips to my question in December I really didn't have a good response other then Thank you sense I wasn't really sure what you were talking about until today. I just read it again and I understand it much better now. I never did see your second post until when I just looked at it. I must have left town for work then I'm working out of town for two weeks at a time and do not get much time for personal web surfing. I must have never got back to it.

Thanks for the tips. The tape is a great idea. I was just really careful when taking it all apart I wasn't real sure how it was coming apart as I went. Putting some tape over the paint would definitely be the smart way to do it. I'll get some on before I go back together before I put a gouge in my paint and regret not taking a minute to do it.

 

Here's a couple pics of the metal parts on the car with out the cloth in the way. Pay attention to how they go so they are correct when you glue them into the new top.
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Get the strap orientated where it needs to be on the new top. Mine had a notch in the dead center and I lined up the center stud with it after doing several measurements of my own.

The bottom flap away from the rear window wraps up first. Poke the holes for your studs with an all(sp?) or something similar. Then glue and wrap the bottom flap around the strap, the bottom flap will wrap pretty much both sides of the bar.

Next punch the holes in the upper flap under the window, glue and wrap down.

Glue in the corners making sure you get left and right correct.

I let the glue tack up before wrapping but I still used some binder clips to keep it tight and in place as I worked. I usually use them when stretching and gluing headliners. I would also be a good idea to maybe put some of that low stick painters masking tape on the outside edges of the top. It is inevitable that while you are rolling the fabric and pressing you will get glue on you fingers and transfer it every where.

As you can see I did this part in the comfort of my own dining room. My wife loves it when I do that.
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O.K so I get everything together and go out to fit it to the car. No matter what I do thing is WAY to small. DO NOT BY YOUR TOP FROM QUALLITY TOP AND INTERIOR ON EBAY. They say its fine I should take it to a professional because I'm too stupid to do it. I bought it several months ago and can't return it so I'm out a grand on this and I have a car with no top right when I was hoping to get out and start racking up some miles.

I grant it that this is my first shot at it but I don't see what a pro could do with this. It's like Fat Guy in a Little Coat. I bolted up the bar under the back window to find that the triangle corners were then like 2 inches farther away then I could stretch it to be mounted. If I mount the back triangles first the bar is several inches from the mounting point on the car. I tried to get nuts started and pull it in with force and maybe get some stretch but it just bends the metal.
Measuring shows from triangle corner to corner following the contour of the back window area is like 3 inches shorter than the original top.

Anyone know how I could stretch this thing that far?
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Would you be able to hook me up with the supplier you've used and had good tops from? It looks like I will need another one. There is no way to make this one right. It's sad too it's really identical to the original top in material and stitching. It looks like a really quality item it's just 10% under sized.

 

Well I got back home for my days off and gave this thing another shot. I did a Google search and read up on some things to try. I probably should have read up before I even started, but you know. Anyway since Montana doesn't seem to want to give up and warm sunny days yet I went with another method a read about. I took near scalding hot water and soaked towels in it the set them on the roof. The combination of the heat and water helping to relax the canvas really help in stretching. I can't believe how far I got it to come. It still needs to go more but it is on good enough to drive and I'll keep working it when we get some sunny days.

Here's a continuation of the install:

Pull the upper and side cables through the new top. I used a piece of mechanic's wire to make this easy. Just slide the wire through, hook it to the spring and pull it all through. I hooked the spring ends up when I had enough stretching done. The springs are pulled tight when the top is up so have it down half way and you can hook the upper and screw on the sides easy. The last picture is a upper one reattached. It will slide into that little loop when I get the front of the top pulled over the frame.
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I hooked the front of the top over the frame where it goes (did not glue it yet) and used the frame to help me stretch it long ways. Don't force it too much and bent things I just used it to apply a little pressure. This stretched to get the top closed fairly easy with a hot wet top.

I worked it and got the nuts under the back window tight. the worked on stretching the corner by the bottom of the bottom on the window. This took some serious persistence but I finally got it were I could get the bottom clipped into the channel and forward enough to get the stud/cover button installed. It is tight as a freakin' drum.
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