F355 Throttle Cable...any one every replace one DIY?

Mine broke right on the pivit under the water bottle to. Its quite straight forward to replace. It removes and inserts from the engine bay. There is a tube that guides it through to the center tunnel inside the car.
Of course take the cable from the lever under the header tank and cover to free the cable. Then Once you have disconected the cable from the pedal end, be sure to unclip the cable/sheath from the center tunnel under the center console. This has to be done or you cant pull the cable through from the engine bay side because the clip holds it secure.
To replace just feed the cable back into the tube.

 

Thanks for the tips. Mine is fraying. I assumed the new cable would have to be attached to the old cable to drag it through.

Any adjustments required after fitment? (or one size fits all?)

 

I replaced mine when it was frayed in the same spot. The engine was out at the time but either way it’s very easy. No need t use the old cable to get it through. The aircraft cable it’s made of is stiff enough. I believe adjusting is just a matter of taking almost all of the slack out.

 

As stated, straightforward to do and definitely no need to remove the fuel tank. You just need to set the freeplay correctly, not too much that you don't get full throttle when you push the throttle pedal all the way, and not too little that it pulls the throttle slightly open when it all gets hot affecting idle.

 

This image may help you, Dennis
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Removal of fuel tank to replace throttle cable? Not even Ferrari designers are dumb enough to do that...
Although, you do need to remove the fuel tank to replace heater pipe, and power steering hoses.

 

I see there are significant differences between left and right hand drive cars in relation to the replacement of cables. It looks like the luggage compartment liners have to be removed on right hand drive cars (?). I see linkages on the pedal going through the forward cabin bulkhead.

https://www.ricambiamerica.com/car-diagrams/ferrari/v6-v8/355-group/f355-m5-2-1996/accelerator-pedal.html

 

No it does not go through the bulkhead, nor does the luggage compartment carpet have to be removed. My car is a right hand drive. Its exactly as i explained above, from the linkage it goes backwards towards the rear of the car via the transmision tunnel under the carpet and center console.

 

Thanks, William.
Looking at my car, a rod attached to the pedal goes through a hole in a piece of sheet metal forward of the accelerator pedal. That rod looks like it's at least a foot long. I couldn't understand how something so far forward wouldn't go through the bulkhead. Is the sheet metal just a cavity in the floor (perhaps below the luggage compartment)?

Anyway, I'll remove the saddle forward of the centre console and have another look at what's there. I guess I've been more focussed on wiring there, rather than mechanical stuff.

Do you normally lubricate the cable prior to installation or does it come pre-lubricated?

 

Push / pull cables do not require lubrication

 

Thanks, Dave. I was just worried about the cable bends in these RHD cars adding additional friction.

The sheet metal I thought I saw forward of the pedal was actually a plastic shroud around the capstan/pivot mechanism forward of the pedal. I lifted the carpet and found four screws holding down this shroud.

I proceeded to remove the cable and hit a few snags... literally. I found the (abovementioned) plastic clip under the forward part of the centre console and managed to force the old cable through that (I couldn't figure out a way of removing the plastic clip to make the job easier). This clip is a few inches forward of the entry point of the tube which guides the accelerator cable through the centre console and over the fuel tank.

At the engine end, I managed to lose the circlip which holds the cable sleeve in place (despite putting a number of rags under the clip to prevent it falling down). It fell down onto what sounded like the underbody fairing panels. I'll probably have to jack up the car to remove the panels.. or try to find the clip with a boroscope then fish it out with a magnet.

The next problem (a major one): I can't pull the cable all the way through. It hits something immovable. Does the spider have an additional plastic clip under the hydraulic pump for the roof? I don't want to cut off the end of the old accelerator cable to make it easier to go through (in case I can't feed the new cable past this obstacle). I may have to refit the old cable and let the experts figure out what the problem is.

 

Managed to get the old cable out with a lot of persistence (no other clamps found). The new cable was similarly obstinate. I went fishing with a magnet and was able to retrieve the circlip (or c-clip or whatever it's called) without lifting the car. Getting the c-clip back on again is my next challenge (gave up after an hour). I thought this was supposed to be easy?

Not the clearest photo, but this is the driver's footwell on my RHD car:

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It's not nearly as elegant as the LHD cars.

As mentioned before, the cable has to be released from the plastic clip (you can just see the edge of it in the bottom right hand corner of the photo).

 

what c clip? show a picture.

 

Ah... had another win.. Finally got it back on with the help of a very large screwdriver. It's next to the power steering reservoir at the far end of the engine "V" and hard to see amongst the pipes. It holds the cable sheath in position at the engine end. It doesn't seem to be shown in any of the parts diagrams. I'll post a photo tomorrow.

 

Well done Qavion

 

Thanks )))

The c-clip is almost impossible to photograph with the coolant tank not moved upwards. I didn't disconnect any of the hoses, just lifted the coolant tank a little to see what I was doing and to get 8mm spanners on the locknuts at the end of the cable.

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The c-clip sides into a slot in the cable sheath end fitting. There is a support bracket at the far end of the engine "V".

I'm not sure if I have to recalibrate anything. Does the throttle position sensor have adjustments screws or does it just re-learn the limits? Does the accelerator pedal have a down limit adjustment? With my old Lotus, I looked at the TPS position real-time with a program on my laptop.

All I did was ensure that the new cable had a similar tension to the one I removed.

 

That clip. You just remove the M6 nut on the Thermostat housing, and slide the whole cable out with the little bracket.

 

Thanks, Mitchell. With limited access/visibility, I didn't realise that the bracket was detachable.

The old clip came off so easily, I had no idea it would be so tricky to put it back on.

 

Would like to know more about cable adjustment; How much slack should there be? Best to do with engine up to temp?

 

The WSM just says "minimum backlash"... So basically as tight as it will go without pulling on the throttle quadrant. The cable run is relatively short. I don't think temperature should make a great deal of difference. Probably less than 0.5mm for every 100degC change. You probably won't be able to get to the cable adjuster with a hot engine anyway.

There are online calculators for cable expansion:

e.g. https://www.spaceagecontrol.com/calctemm.htm?temp_coeff=0.00001728&cable_length=2&trans_range=0.05&temp_change=100&Submit+Button=Calculate