I need to know the pinout diagram for the alternator plug, or just show me the way to a wiring diagram. I am upgrading the alternator electronics, and this will benefit all of us! Thanks, Jay
if you don't get a real answer, it's a denso alternator, right? the standard denso socket would look like: l|ig --- s in other words, S is the pin that is oriented differently, and it would have +12V all the time, IG would have +12V only when the ignition key is on, but so would L..however, if you attach a fairly low resistance resistor between L and ground, the alternator warning light will come on. attached is image I found someplace. If it's not a denso, or the connector doesn't look right, never mind... Image Unavailable, Please Login
First off: Thanks to the people who privately emailed me offering to sell me the info. When I get this all figured out, I will give my solution away to everyone but you, who may then buy a CD from me with the solutions. What I am trying to find is a sutable replacement for the regulator on the F355 Nippondenso alternator. The Denso regulator part number is 126000-1500. This is apparently the correct part number, but is unobtainable in the US or perhaps the world. This number may be an internal Denso number. The Denso alternator part number is 1012117540. The wiring diagram posted by wolftalk is basically the one that I have decided is probably correct. However, replacing the regulator with the most likely candidate did not work. Fortunately for me, my alternator is not actually broken yet, and the regulator can be changed without even removing the alternator. I am working with some good companies, but we are nearing a deadend with this part number. Any help, especially from someone who has been down this road is much appreciated. jay ps: the upgraded, modern (welded diodes) rectifier works perfect pps: the wiring diagram may not be correct, the alternate regulator should have worked anyway Image Unavailable, Please Login
I've wondered what the rebuilding shops do when they open up an alternator and find a part number that isn't in their books. I'd guess they wander back to the parts rack and pluck something out that looks the same, and if the voltage is off a couple tenths, who'd ever know... based on poking around the transpo site (http://www.transpo.de/ or http://www.transpo-usa.com/) a while back, it seems there's three variables: 1] the dimensions, pinout, etc of the unit 2] the voltage set point 3] whether the L terminal is "choke drive" or not. choke drive seems to be a term for whether the L terminal supplies 12V as an output, or whether L gets grounded when there's a fault detected. Sounds like the active 12V L terminal was used to operate a choke heater in the early days, and the name stuck. Either way could work to control the typical circuit where the non-L side of the dash lamp was +12V. I never found theory of ops information, so what the vr needs to get it kick started and how it mucks with the field current for different VR models I don't know. If you swap in a vr that looks the same, but never switches on the field current, I'd guess you'd need the other L wire drive type as a second attempt. 'course, internally the vr's could do a lot of different things, but they still have to vary the field current in response to the system/sense voltage, so if one tries to do more clever load analysis than another, you'd probably never notice the difference. Maybe ernie (azferrari) has a vr part number from one of his many alternator rebuilds. if curious about what's inside an alternator, see: http://www.stealth316.com/2-alt-rebuild.htm
IN438 is what I tried, which did not work. I am digging a little deeper before I try a IN434, which is a 100 amp MR2. update: "L terminal drives choke" is used on modern cars to kick all them relays when the car starts. I will be trying an IN220 this week. Of course this would still be easier to figure out if someone could find a wiring diagram or pinout for the alternator.... jay
You might have already tried this but..Have you tried contacting Denso directly? sometimes they distribute the same part in multiple countries with different part numbers. Also if you know of another company that sells that part they might be able to cross reference for you and sell you there version.
Yes. So far I am batting zero. I have talked to some surprisingly nice people. Apparently this alternator and starter rebuilding business is old-fashioned, where salesmen return phone calls, and burrow through print catalogs to help a customer out. The IR220 suggestion was made by a tech at transpo.de after discussing possibilities and characteristics with me. jay
Please, I still need a partial diagram. Still batting zero. We need the wiring diagram to determine why the "correct" regulator is not working. I am not asking for an entire copyrighted document, just a diagram of the plug or alternator, because some of the wiring assumptions appear to be incorrect. jay
Ok, I got the wiring diagram faxed to me. (Thanks to a generous guy from Hawaii) Unfortunately, the diagram appears to be different from any real F355 in the dashboard light wiring details. Other than that, everything should have worked, as the alt plug details are correct. So, we are onto plan D. This winter, the perfectly good alternator comes out, and is sent to the regulator manufacturer to figure out what works on the bench. The current most likely candidate is a "Europe only" regulator, that may or may not have an upgraded circuit replacement. However, all of the new quality replacement regulators are improved over the stock one. Thanks, Jay
Hi, my name is Marcelo, I have a f355 gts 1997 here in Brazil. I have this problems with my alternator. I changes the recifier and regulator. But now the battery lamp is on. Some times it tirns off for 1 second, and then get on again for 5 seconds. Any ideia what can be?
