F40 Restoration Project

It's September, and the snow will be here soon. So if you're looking for a project to keep you busy this winter there's an easily restoreable F40 for sale in Aiichi Ken. They're only asking $12,500 for it, so why not jump in....
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LOL just a little Bondo & that will buff out LOL

 

I know a guy in Germany who did the same work. If you will go in touch with him I can give you all the contacts. Which VIN is yours?

 

If I was near the car, I'd buy it and sit on it for 30 years. Never restore it, but plan to sell it as a "barn find" 30-50 years from now... would likely turn out to be a fantastic long term investment for very little risk...

 

Whats this the 200GB Hard Drive?
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I think he went for the aftermarket fitted luggage instead of the schedoni set...

 

I think someone mistook it as a trash bin ...

 

Wasn't the Lindner "LM" build on a base like this? Look how someone took out the front nose badge.

 

Where is this car? If it is in the US and they really want 12K for it I will buy it ASAP.

 

Not a restoration expert, but wouldn't that frame still be ok ? Unless something has melted, how does fire affect the integrity of metal ?

 

Depending on temperatures, but metal loses a lot of its tensil strength the longer at even farily "warm" temperatures.... 2 hours a 300F is better then 30 minutes at 400F.Tests can be preformed on certain aluminum's for example, and the level of fatigue it's suffered in the fire. I don't know quite enough about steel... but surely somebody on fchat knows much more about the steel, and what specific grade steel it is... and how well it takes the heat a car fire would produce.

 

i believe the first post says its in japan.

 

Without getting into "THAT" debate, maybe somebody should ask Napolis about 0846. I would guess that the fire that consumed parts of that car was very hot, and it would be interesting to know if he has had the chassis stress-tested to see if the driving characteristics were changed dramatically as a result of the fire. Would Nino have a strong enough recollection to notice a difference?

Peter

 

an F40 LM in the making...

 

now thats funny !

 

me too

 

I think what you would have to do is cut out the part w the VIN, since thats probably the only salvagable part of this car & rebuild the car around that

 

Can someone give an answer to these questions:

Is a restoration possible?
How much of the existing car could be salvaged (based on the pictures)?
And would the cost be less than purchasing a complete car?

 

I don't know if a restoration on that is possible. By the time you 'restore' it, it may have been cheaper to buy a whole one. Also, not much of that look salvageable. Does anyone know specifically what type of steel is used for the frame?

 

Ithink no.........the production of this car is so big.

 

Anything is possible, its just a matter of how much you want it, Read $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

Like I said, I think you can salvage the VIN plate & that may be it

as for 3rd question, well that depends on how much you buy from F, how much you luck into, and how much you are willing to have fabricated. I think the less F parts you use the lower the parts cost & you may have higher quality as well

The engine of course HAS to be F but not the turbos intercoolers, exhaust,

The interior could be pure race car

I probably have near $200k into my race 512TR by now but she's a Monster and she can spank a whole lot of cars out there

 

looks like a world of pain . check the parts price from ferrari , probably need to spend $3 million to get it right .

 

The chassis is a heat treated alloy similar to 4130 alloy tubing. Any time one welds on a race car chassis built from 4130 the surrounding area must be annealed to normalize the weld or embrittlement is highly likely.

In this case the entire chassis was "annealed" due to the fire. To heat treat alloy tubing exposed to high heat there is a very specific slow cooling rate required. Pouring water on the chassis creates a quenching effect like used when treating a chisel.

There are a lot more steps involved in making this chassis correct again other than stripping and repainting it. The entire chassis would require some serious oven time, straighten after its normalized and some more oven time. Big job!

Dave

 

Robert, you have mail

 

But you could reconstruct the chasis out of even stronger Chrome Moly w a serious roll cage for a lot less I imagine