F430 - cylinder Head torque specs

my 430 shop manual says "being prepared" for your specific chapter

but on the 360 manual it reads:

tightening of cylinder head(pre-tightening to 60nm)
thread: m11 x1

min torque + min angle 60+24 degree (A)
max torque + max angle 90 +76 degree (A)

replace "degree" with a Celsius sign.


I am not sure what degree it is talking about.

 

On my F355. Head/Block Studs are torque to stretch under load.
Pre-tighten to 60 nm.
Then tighten to a specific angle. 90 degrees if I recall correctly.
No specific torque value as used on earlier heads.

 

Giving this guy specs for a 360 and a 355 is nice and all but 430 is a completely different engine.

 

I would surely like to know what Celsius has to do with a torque spec.

 

It's call torque + Angle. The degree, is not temperature, it's angular degrees.

It's the amount of rotation beyond once the torque is met. It's a common fastener tightening strategy.

 

LOL!

 

Also, need to check to see what, if any, lubricant is to be used on the threads. Improper lub yields improper torque.

 

Correct. Molykote is used on the 355 but I'm not helping the OP with this post as he has a 430

I scanned the 430 WSM I have and could not locate the info...

 

WSM has this:

Molykote 1000
60 Nm + 90 degrees to 80 =/- 10Nm

 

Anyone know torque specs for head bolts on a 458?

 

do you guys replace the headstuds and or nuts when you take of the cylinderhead on the 430?

 

I do if they are not in great condition. I am careful to evaluate the torque when taking them off and I measure the threaded area to see if they have any stretch. If I have any doubts, I replace them all. Nuts and studs. I have reused them when they are good, but in the last couple head gasket jobs, they had been reused already and the gasket didn't hold so I didn't risk reuse.

 

Thank you for the reply! - do you take the studs out to measure them or you measure them in installed position? you measure shaft and threads? You check what kind of torque you need to unscrew the nuts correct? do you replace the nuts anyway or only if they are found to be in not good conditions ? Can you recommend a supplier for headgaskets and studs/nuts in central europe?. Somewhere i read that the factory replacement studs might not be as good as the original ones? The Studs for the bottom half of the crankcase should be easily reuseable ? they dont see that much torque nor the abuse - right? Sry for all the questions but first timer here

 

I measure the threaded section where the nut is attached. Many times the stud has stretched and that section will be smaller. I will reuse the nuts if they are in very good condition and fit the threads well. Head gaskets are Murray Glegg. He make outstanding head gaskets, it is all I use. [email protected]. He will answer but it may take some time. He builds the gasket when ordered, it takes time but they are the best.
As for studs and nuts, Eurospares or Superformance has them. New Ferrari replacements are good as well.
You are correct, the lower studs don't seem to be an issue like head studs.

 

Dear Wade,
thank you so much for the detailed info - i will do as you recommended!

All the best
Christoph

 

I have always reused the nuts in good shape but I always replace the washers. As for the studs, I have never had to replace them ... yet. What makes Murray's gaskets superior to Ferrari ones, or MLS ones?

 

what is so important with the washers?? would have been the last part i consider swapping. Do they lose their flatness once thightend? or do the polish and maybs would spin whil being torqued down? Why not just sandpaper them a little ?

 

Because they are under a tremendous amount of pressure, they tend to crack when you reuse them.

 

Ferrari engines with wet liners pose a peculiar sealing problem for head gaskets. The deck is not flat due to the liners being proud of the surface by several thousandths. It requires a composition gasket of a very specific crushability of the base material. That allows perfect sealing of the cylinders yet crush enough to perfectly form around the step at the edge of the cylinder effectively sealing the oil and water passages to prevent it migrating where it does not belong. MLS is not intended to do that. The Ferrari official supplier moved production of many head gaskets to a different factory and almost routinely they use a different base material without the needed degree of crushability. Their head gaskets have become a crap shoot. Murray fabricates gaskets to a very high standard using the correct materials. No more crossing fingers hoping for long term sealing success.

 

As for the washers, the corner stud hole recess for the washer to sit in is smaller than the ones in the middle of the head. The corner washers don't sit well and after the torque is applied will settle into the aluminum and have less clamp. I have found the corner nuts are not as tight coming off due to this settling. I use an aftermarket washer that freely drops into the recess.
As stated above, they can crack as well.

 

hi guys - took off the left head this evening - would you pls have a look on the cams and the caps - there is some wear - but i can t feel anything with my finger or nail - are they good to go - or are they toast?
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hello! i found this forum because i want to replace the crankshaft and connecting rod bearings in my f430. can you help me with the tightening torque of the connecting rods and crankshaft?

 

They are not in need of replacement but I sure don't like how they look. Ferrari made big long reamers for the cam bearings.
I have one and If that was mine Id be using it.
Replacing them means replacing the head.

 

Dear Sir

how would i know if i obtained 80 NM +/- 10Nm if i should not reclick already thightend head screws/nuts? Would you recommend do tighten to 90Dregree and THEN check afterwards with torque wrench again if the 80Nm is reached???

Or what is the correct process to do it ?

BR C