Hi All. I'm preparing to install a set of AP headers and have downloaded a couple of instructions from AP and Fabspeed. However, Fabspeed's instructions say to remove the wheel well liners, but I can't understand why. Does anybody here know? The AP instructions say they did it just to take pictures but that it wasn't necessary. I think between the two instructions, I have enough information to do the job, but just curious to hear from others who have already done it. Also, if anybody near Pittsburgh, PA would like to lend a hand, that would be great too. I have a heated garage with a lift and air compressor. Thanks, Dale
https://www.google.com/amp/s/aldousvoice.com/2014/03/25/ferrari-f430-exhaust-manifold-change/amp/ Also see the 360/430 DIY sticky at the top of this section. Sent from my Galaxy
Hi Dale, you are just out of reach, I’m about 5 1/2 hours away in Warwick MD, making it a long day otherwise I’d be happy to help. I am planning to do manifolds myself this winter as well. Hope you post some tips and tricks as you go!! Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat
That diy is pretty much the way I did mine. I did buy all new hardware with slightly longer flange bolts. I also used the copper nuts but 10mm so I could get access to all of them with a ratchet and socket. Pulling the inner wells just makes getting to the o2 sensor easier. Just remember there is a wire connected to them for the tpms sensor.
Now that we know removing the wheel well liners isn't necessary, what about disconnecting the battery? I don't see any reason for it, other than to avoid shorting something out in the event of an accident. We remove a total of four sensors (2 O2 and 2 temp) from their ports, but we don't disconnect their electrical connections, correct? If so, there little risk of a short.
No need to remove wheel well liner. I would disconnect the battery just due to the ease of it. I highly recommend putting it up on stands a day or two prior and soak the nuts in pb blaster. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
You disconnect the battery for safety . Every shop manual will tell you to do that any time you are working under the hood . I wrench on domestics for a living and rarely do it unless I'm right next to battery power swinging a wrench . In my world having to reset everything in the car including computer strategies is a big PITA so most professional mechanics won't do it unless it's absolutely necessary . That's my explanation --- do what's comfortable and safe for your skills.
I replaced my exhaust manifolds with AP headers. I removed the wheel liners as instructed but I cant remember the reason. And my hard drive recently failed which contains all the photos and DIY info that I created............. Disconnecting the battery is of utmost importance when working on cars (I am an electrical engineer) Reason is for safety. To avoid accidental short circuit that can destroy expensive electronic car components. You dont have to disconnect the battery terminals. It is strongly suggested, again for safety reasons to avoid accidental short circuit of electrical connections.
And then there is the starter near where you are working. Too much can go wrong down there and big arcs kill expensive stuff. Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat.com mobile app
For clarification, is it suggested to simply turn the disconnect in the front trunk area, or literally disconnect the battery terminals? The former would be a given, and it’s easy enough to do. But is there any reason to actually remove the terminals from the battery? Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat
The switch in the front is in the negative line , not the positive and also it does not break all the negative connections( some negatives are prior to it, direct on the battery. Best to pull the battery out
Interesting, thanks for pointing this out. I had assumed positive, all my race cars have had the disconnect on the positive side, by regulations. Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat
Somebody posted a link to a tool they picked up at Harbor Freight that they claimed is essential for making this operation a little less of a hassle, but I can't find it. Does anybody know? It was some sort of a wrench with a bend in the handle, but I don't think it was a 90-degree bend. If I recall, it was used for removing the manifold nuts. I will be starting my install soon, and would like to reduce back-n-forth trips to the hardware store as much as possible. I do have a fairly vast collection of tools, including air tools, but there's always that one tool you could use that you don't have
I remember that post too. I did a quick search and cant find it.......... Hopefully the member that posted it will chime in here soon. Dan
https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/removing-factory-exhaust-manifolds.587323/#post-146269263 HF wrenches: https://www.harborfreight.com/8-piece-metric-offset-box-wrench-set-32042.html
Yes, thanks. Do you think a 45-degree bend would work ad well? The reason I ask is because this HF set is made of cheap steel that is often good for one-time use, but Craftsman has a forged set, but the ends are 45 degree, not 60.
Well, I got all the panels off and the sensors out. None of the instructions mentioned removing the rear valance, but I did because it makes crawling in/out from under the car easier. It's easy enough to do. So total of four engine bay panels, under tray and rear valance. Also presents a good opportunity to clean them off. I noticed this performance shop's sticker on the crash attenuator, and was wondering if anybody here has has any experience with them. They're still in business. Image Unavailable, Please Login
In addition to my question above, does anyone know if these two holes should be covered? They appear to be for inspection, but the shine of the metal around the openings makes it seem like they were covered at one point. Just wondering. I decided to ask here rather than search through parts diagrams. Image Unavailable, Please Login
You will need to do a battery reset anyway once they are fitted since the learning characteristics stored in the Motronics will all be wrong and will need re-learning anyway so may as well flick the battery isolation switch before the work if you haven't already done it..
