F430 F1 6th gear light blink

So I think that I may be dealing with a potentiometer going bad, but looking for thoughts. I just replaced my clutch, TOB, and each and every associated part, and of course fluids. The car is driving fantastic, but there's one weird issue. Occasionally 6th gear will blink very slowly on the dash for a short period of time, but no popping out of gear, beeping or F1 light. I've done an actuator re-learn, bleed, etc. so I have all bases covered with the exception of using the actuator alignment jig. F1 pressure is good; all parts besides the F1 pump are new. Transmission is not throwing any codes either. Maybe an Italian tune up of just getting out on the highway will solve it, or does it sound like a potentiometer ready to crap the bed perhaps? I've had the issue of a gear light blinking, beeping and popping out of gear, but that was when the old clutch was shot. This is much different.

 

I will try to help if you would like me too

Usually a relearn fixes these issues

It can be the sensors but it also can be the physical shift is hard ..meaning like a bad synchro

The blinking light means the shift took too long to happen or just not in the right position

We can create a shift grid and see if that shows anything

Also need to know peripheral information ..e.g temp , rpm, time after starting , etc


Send me a PM so we can talk about the peripheral info and lets see if we can narrow down some things

I assume you have a launch or a thinkdiag or equivalent

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Just an update, Flash and I spent a few hours last night working on it and I can't thank him enough! He's the F1 guru...period! My Foxwell gave some normal readings and then it would give some left-field numbers that made no sense, so I have a new reader coming tomorrow. One odd reading that continuously came up was an 11.04mm clutch closed position. It should be double that but as you shift through the gears, the distance does drop proportionally as if it was reading a normal position. Anyone ever see this before? I had the flywheel refinished, so if anything you'd think the position would be a greater distance than lower.

Anyway, going to bleed the F1 again and eDiff tonight and run some other tests. We're getting there

 

Glad to hear the progress! Which diagnostic reader are you getting?

 

In reference to the clutch close position..we are discussing the possibility that the magnetic post may have be inadvertently reversed ..if anyone has or remember that happening please confirm my thinking here ..as you know not a easy way to check or take apart

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Flash's hypothesis was correct. I installed the magnet post "360 style" with the screw facing the gearbox. I just spent the last day tearing it all apart just to the magnet around. Car will be back together completely tomorrow so we expect to see some normal readings. The new Thinkdiag2 arrived today, so I'll compare with the Foxwell 710.

Of all the dumb things to mess up wrong, ugh! I did learn that it is easy to swap a clutch position sensor without removing anything but the belly tray though. Good to know for those who are curious. And the Hill end of stoke stud tool came saved the day today. I only separated the gearbox as much as necessary to get at the TOB, and having the tool saved me hours of labor.

 

Very happy to hear your results! Amazing root cause analysis by @flash32

 

Update... Flash and I just did a relearn and clutch setup with no errors!! Flash is the man!!!

 

I'll add too I regards to the readers, while the software seems very similar if no the same, I like the Diag better. It processes faster and works via bluetooth on my phone. Amazing all it does for $130. Another shout out to Flash for recommending it. Every modern classic owner should have one IMO.