Hello, I'm Giorgio, from Italy, i have a problem with the F430 F1 gearbox. Sometimes when the car is hot go to neutral when I drive and I have to restart the car many times to try to put again the first gear. I have read that this is a common problem due to a sensor or a consumed clutch. Now I ask you which sensor is probabilly the guilty? If I put the diagnosys I will know which sensor is or I read a generic error? I think that is one of this two parts: 248095 or 219340 Thanks a lot
Ciao The part you are referring to is 248095 But although common not always the issue This is the list of possible causes Worn accumulator Actuator relearn needed Loose actuator bleed screws Needing a true bleed from both actuator and clutch follow WSM Ediff solenoid Worn clutch beyond 75 percent Are you able to read codes ..if so what are they How many miles do you have Sent from my moto g power using Tapatalk
Today I hope to be able to read the error code and i will told you. In any case the car has 33000 miles. If the actuator screws are loose I could see a leek, right? But it seems to be clean. For the moment thanks a lot, I will update you.
Do you have the 33,000 miles on the original clutch? If so, I’m betting it’s a worn clutch. Get a reading on it to tell you for sure. I’d follow flash32 advice. Sent from my iPad using FerrariChat.com mobile app
If the actuator screws are slightly loose you will not see any leak .. these screws are not your typical bleed screws ..they more bypass screws .. when they are loose they allow fluid to pass from high pressure to low pressure thru return line Let me know what you find out After you check clutch and codes we can perform some timings Let start with key on engine off How many minutes does pump stay off and when it does run how many seconds (need to be accurate) dies it run How many shifts can you do from 1 to n to 1 before you hear pump run ..this also while key is on without running engine Sent from my moto g power using Tapatalk
I have some data now: - the pump run for 2.8 sec when I open the door - I can shift N to 1 to N to 1 one times before the pump run From the diagnoss: - error P1770 - error P1742 potentiometer - clutch status: 3769 (I don't why there isn't a % but the software told me that it is in a good range) Attached other data. Thanks Image Unavailable, Please Login
Hi so the data shows me that you have a boarderline clutch solenoid based on leakage rate ( not thinking this is your issue since it isn't too high) The clutch wear index is pretty good We need to get more data First look for something that s says clutch position closed and clutch position closed from new - those two data items will give us wear Also you said you can shift from N to 1 to N to 1 one time - did you mean one set of all those shifts or just one shift ? Also when the pump starts running .. stop shifting and let me know how many seconds it run Also how long does the pump stay off after it stops without touching any gears or anything - just leaving key in "on" position The errors point to a miss engagement which could be that the pressure caused the miss shift or the sensor I mentioned in the post above is faulty Lets get the timing bac and i can make some recommendations Would you like to change things piece meal and test as we go along - most cost efficient if you do the work yourself ( change accumulator and retest) Or would you like a list to do at a mechanic once we determine all most likely things ( e.g. sensors, good bleed of actuator, and a new accumulator )
Hi Flash32 I mean one set of al this shifts (N to 1 to N to 1) and after this the pump runs for 2.8 sec. After the pump stops it stays off for 5min and 21sec. Which sensor do you mean? I would like, if possible, find the right part to change and replace only that. Usually I do by myself a lot of work on the car. But if become too hard I will go to the mechanic. PS: Do you know where I can find a workshop manual? I have only the worshop manual for my old 360. Thanks
It is almost impossible to get down to one part - but we will take the most cost effective method The sensor that may or may not be need of replacing is 248095 But given the mileage and the timings and since it is considered a wear item , I would start with this first ( accumulator replacement) and see if that helps _ link below After that .. I would take off actuator do a good bleed and replace part 248095 https://www.sequparts.com/product/accumulator-ferrari-f1/
Hello Domenico, I have bought the accumulator and the oil. They will arrive next week. To replace the accumulator I have read that someone bleed the system and someone do not because they told that when you remove the accumulator it is empty than you can replace it with the new one that is empty. What is the right procedure? I have seen also this video (where he bleed the system): Thanks a lot
Good morning The way that i recommend it you probably won't need to bleed .. Another chatter had documented how I recommend it on another thread ..i will get that to you Please remember that this although maybe needed it may not solve your issue as stated ..we start with this and then most likely need the sensors ..just want to set expectations Thanks Sent from my moto g power using Tapatalk
Hello everybody, after replacing the accumulator and not solving the problem, I also replaced the gearbox sensor and bleed the actuator and now the car works fine. Thank you!
For future reference, what specific gearbox sensor did you replace? Your code stated a potentiometer issue.
Looks like you accurately diagnose the potentiometer initially. But then you said to do the accumulator first? Just curious what made you recommend to replace the accumulator before the potentiometer, especially given the codes stating there was a fault in the potentiometer. in the end, glad it’s all sorted. I see a lot of these threads about the F1 popping into neutral, and many of the threads are fixed with a new potentiometer. in my limited experience, worn accumulator leads to prolonged F1 priming times.
My diagonsis stayed the same but based on the timings (short pump times, and more freq pump times plus too few shifts) the first "broken part" pointed to weak accumulator. That and that it is a wear item I suggested we replace it.... knowing it was one item that needed to be changed but chances are that more needed to be done . Sometimes error codes that appear to be the sensor are caused by a pressure failure as well. I am very cautious of the people i help wallet and not try to throw parts at a job... especially if the jobs are truly separate (not rework) .. I call it risk and reward .. Of course if the person is having a mechanic do it I may do more to be more efficient in labor This diag and fix went exactly as i planned .. I normally have a phone call with the person and explain different paths..and plans with risk rewards..if someone wants to get in the road regardless of cost vs taking a piece meal and more time Sent from my moto g power using Tapatalk
