F430 Removing F1 Actuator to tighten bleed screws?

What version did you have ...10.26 ?

Can you see what the pis states ?

Just curious what you see for pis

Of course if you can

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Just because you could enter the decimal in the field does not mean the system would accept it.

 

Thank you.. ..looks like instructions were translated from another language (Chinese maybe)

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I'll add a couple of screenshots that I've just read off my car...version 10.26 and a 360 with CFC231 based CS TCU

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It shows the system pressure answering an earlier question, clutch parameters and wear index.

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Most parameters read ok but I've only tried clutch bleed from the special functions which worked fine.
Otherwise I’ve left alone but would be interested if the self learn works as I will need to do that shortly.

The ones that don't seem to work are the clutch travel which should be around 8.5

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As above I think you can enter decimals but it just truncates them to the nearest whole number.


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What do the numbers mean? Does the WSM list the required ranges? For example clutch wear index 39xx what does that mean?

 

I’m only going off what I’ve read from various resources and I don’t think the WSM has a range for clutch wear index. I’ll check tomorrow.
My understanding is it is just a factor that represents how the clutch bites i.e. does it grab or does it slip versus a ‘standard’ clutch
I believe 4000 is the reference point for a normal or standard clutch and the wear index integrates up or down depending on how the clutch is biting. Voicey has a great description of the the clutch operation on his blog. The number is then used in the TCU algorithms to control the clutch and compensate for differences in bite.
Mine is usually within +/- 100 of 4000 and I noticed that when the TCU was first installed the clutch was very grabby whereas now the clutch control is sublime, so there is a degree of adaptation and I assume it’s the wear index that needs to settle.

The clutch position is the release bearing distance from the flywheel and as the clutch wears it increases. The clutch range on an SD2 printout I have from when it was installed is 8.5mm and I use that to calc clutch wear. In my case (18.14-15.94/)/8.5 * 100% which is around 30% and agrees with the SD2 wear readings.
The clutch range on the xdiag is just the same as the current clutch position so this is incorrect unless you have to run a sequence to record it.
Hydraulic pressure is in the WSM which give a range which it operates in. A nice thing about the xdiag is you can also graph it.

The oil leakage values with clutch SV open and closed I do not fully understand but there are ranges and mine are at low end. It was these that made me leave my actuator alone as I was going to strip it to try and repair a leak around the position switches but at the moment it ain’t broke so I won’t break it

 

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Don´t know if this is mentioned, in that case sorry for asking again but why are the screws loose in the first place? Do they come loose with age?

 

It's a combination of a relatively small screw size (M6) into a fragile alloy housing, with a small number of threads. Add to that a location that suffers a great amount of vibration and we end up with loosened screws over time.

I add a small, neat dab of RTV to the side of the screw head once they are torqued to spec. The idea is to fix the head to the body of the actuator in an effort to prevent the screw turning should it ever loosen again from its seat.

 

Thanks, how many hours should i calculate if a experienced shop does the job?

 

I took just over two hours to do mine:

- Remove rear diffuser (I didn't remove the entire undertray);
- Remove RH cat;
- Remove associated actuator heat shields;
- Remove actuator and clean off old RTV (place some cloth in the gearbox aperture whilst you do this) - support actuator so no undue stress is placed on the hoses;
- Perform diagnostic bleed;
- Reverse of the above.


Add on time for:

• Any issues with fastenings or difficulty removing parts;
• Checking the position of the F1 hose banjo fittings at the power unit end. Sometimes these are fastened haphazardly by the factory which places the braided hose at an inappropriate angle relative to the swaged fitting;
• My fluid was replaced before the above so I didn't perform a flush, but add on extra time and cost if the fluid is to be replaced (I advise it is changed every couple of years).

 

Using the diag equipment what is the best way to do a complete fkush ?

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Any thoughts / help ?

The write up above for the bleeding is awesome but no where can I find how to do a complete flush even using SD or equivalent

Any help and or guidance would be appreciated



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Thanks

My concern is the fluid in the tubes going to actuator, clutch and e-diff ...

I would imagine you can do your process and then do the same for clutch and e-diff bleed valve

But like you said I was hoping for a positive confirmation from someone who knows wsm method

I was hoping Stewart could jump in

Thanks

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I would suck the oil out of the reservoir (when depressurised) and replace with fresh fluid.
Run the bleed processes then pull out the fluid again and repeat.
That should take care of 90% of it.

The 360 manual doesn’t have a procedure as it was not a service item. The only way to get more out is drain everything down and then bleed.

I replace the fluid in the reservoir annually and have changed the clutch fluid twice since I had the car. Cleaner fluid will work into the actuator as it operates.

 

So did you end up testing it? Is the pump running less frequently?

 

Mwstewart

Do know the process in which your fluid flush was preformed ?

Thank you in advance for sharing



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Hey Guys,

My X431 has arrived purchased from kingbolen through eBay well here is my assessment so far::
1-it does more then I expected but definitely has room for growth...
Plenty of parameters to help any DIY
It appears to have the ability to support a successful clutch replacement and F1 fluid flush through activations.
It has a cool feature to capture a drive cycle recording in graph format with many parameters one can look back at after the drive...kinda like a mini flight recorder.
2-it's limitation are Feeding back accurate information..example certain areas show battery voltage 40-50v..from my experience this happens when the project file is not interpreting the sw within the connected control unit....basically the scanner and connected cu are not communicating with the same language....I've seen this with very expensive factory scanners also.
3-one of my immediate challenges is reading clutch percentage....within activation parameters the first option is clutch%. After you request a read it states the reading is located under parameters... I can't find it...if anyone can see it please let us know where it is.
On the same subject within the parameter options I can read clutch wear index mine is showing 405 I am thinking this is the 0-10000 threshold...everything under 4K indicates a healthy clutch...
That's it for now...
K///

 

It says clutch wear % is now under parameters but it isn’t.
I use the closed new and current closed clutch positions to calculate it.