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430 F430 Running sluggish

Discussion in '360/430' started by JVMusic717, Apr 19, 2020.

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  1. JVMusic717

    JVMusic717 Rookie

    Sep 15, 2018
    7
    Full Name:
    John Vincent
    #1 JVMusic717, Apr 19, 2020
    Hi - I am new here. Nice to meet everyone. I bought a 2008 F430 Spider last April. Ran like a champ all summer. Only put 500 miles on then stored it for winter. Put stabilizer in full tank of gas and pumped up tires. Took it out about once a month for short drives just to keep engine oils moving etc. Today I took it out and for some reason it was running really sluggish. Usually when I put my foot to the floor it would snap your neck back. Today it was really struggling as if it felt like the e-brake was still on (it wasn’t). I thought maybe because it was cold but this was after 20 min warm up. Any ideas what it could be ? Thanks in advance.


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  2. mike32

    mike32 F1 Veteran

    May 13, 2016
    5,962
    Isle of man- uk
    #2 mike32, Apr 20, 2020
    Has the tone of the engine changed, any alarms showing. If the battery is not fully charged it can start on 4 cylinders and you might show alarms. Charge the battery right up and try again. Engine normally loses its crisp roar
     
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  3. JVMusic717

    JVMusic717 Rookie

    Sep 15, 2018
    7
    Full Name:
    John Vincent
    #3 JVMusic717, Apr 20, 2020
    Hi Mike - Thanks for the reply. You know, the first thing I noticed when I started it up is that it didn’t have its usual roar. But I just figured it was because it was cold. Also, when I down shifted it didn’t have any crackle or pops, it actually sounded like a 4 cylinder engine down shifting. I had it on the tender the whole time but maybe the wire got loose? Or maybe it’s because it’s an after market tender? In any case I don’t have a batter charger unless you mean put it back on the tender which I did yesterday. I had no warning lights on tho. Also had no idea that it could start up and run on only 4 cylinders. Thanks so much. I will let you know how it goes.


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  4. hessank

    hessank Formula 3
    Silver Subscribed

    Aug 8, 2005
    1,933
    Canada, Florida
    Full Name:
    Fred
    #4 hessank, Apr 20, 2020
    Just from my personal experience all 3 of these are bad for your car. 500 miles in 1 year and short drives are bad for a high strung car such as ours.
    Also 20 mins warm up is about 15 mins too long. Not good for the engine. Also the gasoline in that car is probably getting stale (I know you added Stabil)

    You need to give this car a good Italian Tune.
     
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  5. mike32

    mike32 F1 Veteran

    May 13, 2016
    5,962
    Isle of man- uk
    #5 mike32, Apr 20, 2020
    Do you have a multi meter ? Connect it up to the aux power socket between the seats- should show 12 volts, ( you can buy a volt display from Amazon cheaply which plugs into the aux socket and very useful for its cheap cost.
    press the starter and volts should not drop below 10.5 volts- if it does buy a new battery. If the volts drop too much when the starter goes in it drops the volts too much for the engine control and u end up on half engine.
    Batteries are consumables on these cars- being on a tender is no help as it just trickle charges it- my tender is on a time switch so it charges 15 hours a day, mine is uk car which are fitted with trackers as standard and
    drains the battery all the time.
    Tenders are fine but can sulfate the battery plates, is your the 0.8 amp ferrari branded ctek. As much use as a chocolate rocking chair.
     
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  6. Manda racing

    Manda racing Formula 3

    Feb 25, 2015
    1,270
    Bakersfield, Ca
    Full Name:
    Mark
    #6 Manda racing, Apr 21, 2020
    Is it persisting— did you turn it off and restart a few times to see if it starts on all 8?
     
  7. RedTaxi

    RedTaxi F1 Rookie
    Silver Subscribed

    Mar 1, 2012
    3,340
    New Zealand
    Full Name:
    Glen
    #7 RedTaxi, Apr 21, 2020
    Did you wait for the OK on the dash? I didn't once and it behaved just as you describe. Switched off and restarted after the OK and all fixed.
     
  8. MKTViper

    MKTViper Karting
    Silver Subscribed

    Oct 9, 2018
    212
    Swan Point MD
    Full Name:
    Mike
    #8 MKTViper, Apr 21, 2020
    A couple other suggestions:
    1. Disconnect battery in luggage compartment and do a computer reset. The ECU will relearn throttle body positioning.
    a. Ensure radio, A/C and any other AUX equip is off. Leave battery disconnected for at least 30min
    b. Reconnect battery, use key fob to disarm alarm
    c. Insert key (do not turn) and wait 30 sec
    d. turn key to Pos II and wait 30 sec
    e. Turn key all the way backward (do not remove) wait 30 sec
    f. Turn key to Pos II, wait for "CHECK OK" and start engine
    g. Idle for about 10 min

    2. While the battery is disconnected, get some MAF cleaner, remove throttle body's and MAF housings and clean thoroughly. You'll need to replace the metal straps (4") but very easy to do. I just did this when I painted by throttle body's--my car was running great, but I still found some oil in the flex hose and the butterfly valves were pretty dirty. I definitely noticed a difference after cleaning.

    3. Go for a "normal drive" keeping RPMs under 4K until oil temp gets to about 140F.
     

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