f430 transmission issues

Interesting. The wiring diagrams only show the larger plug, not the sensors.

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Tom

a FYI --- been working with a few people ( some mechanics as well) and noticed a drop in quality control of the 360 and 430 sensors.
I have had a few break in 500 miles or not work right out of box .. very strange
this applies to both the 360 and 430 .. very strange .. different places and different mechanics

 

I have experienced that also. I think I have had 2 bad sets over the last year or so. The quality of everything automotive wise seems to be on the decline..it's really frustrating.

 

Now we are testing them before installing them

 

Would anyone be able to tell me the wire colours on the front and rear potentiometers? See below:

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I think I have the main plug sorted, it's just the colours on the two potentiometers themselves.

i.e. is the forward sensor the "SHIFT" sensor? (marked on the sensor) and do the colours read (from top to bottom) red/black/blue? Or is the forward sensor, the "GEAR" sensor and the colours are orange/grey/yellow (top to bottom)?

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i.e. A or B?

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Thanks!

 

Gear is the one closest to the outside edge of the acutator. It is the one with the longer sensor arm. That arm contacts the tip of the shift shaft inside the actuator. Registers the forward and back movement.

 

Excellent. Thanks! So "A".

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Incorporated into wiring diagram here:

https://www.dropbox.com/t/XNDzAxEP7dKD23mb

 

Yes..gear is closest to the front of the car..I thought I had a set kicking around on my work bench here at home..but I may have tossed them out during my purge..

 

Ooops... should have labelled it like this...

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So according to the wiring diagrams and photos...


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brown/red wires look like a common power source
black wires go to a common chassis earth
orange/blue (gear) and white/yellow are the outputs for gear and shift respectively

 

Car is going in for release bearing, so looking to see if we do the sensors at same time. Fitted ones working fine but original 2008 fit

 

How do you test them, Dominick? Just resistance checks?

Are the internals something like this?

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i.e. fixed resistance across the red and black wires at all positions, but variable resistance across red & blue and black & blue

 

We are actually connecting them to vehicle without attaching them ( that is where the labor is) and observe the data stream in diag tool .. multimeter test should work with as well

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you cannot just test resistance - not sure what circuit is used internally but need power and ground connected and then test for volts on signal wire

I need to take one apart and see what is inside - contactless , hall effect etc

 

Wouldn't be a bad idea. I had a couple sets fail on me soon after a clutch change. Sometime just removing the actuator or a small bump can upset them if they are old. They live in a pretty harsh environment.. I'm surprised they last as long as they do..

 

Hi All...just had a 2008 430 F1 issue - wont shift out of 2nd etc ...F1 warning light. You guys helps me in understanding what going on...concluding potentiometers were likely candidate - here's the issue however...as of date of posting Ferrari don't have the potentiometer's with no end in sight. I have to say this is frustrating. Scuderia allegedly had them but charging $2500 instead of 900 for the privilege (if they have them)! Dealers doubt it! Interestingly it appears Lambo use the exact same box. Talk to Eurospares who have figured that Lambo use the exact same F1 box and sensors...cheaper also and in stock. It is of concern to me that Ferrari are not supporting these issues and have to question f these sensors and issues similar should be failing on a 15000 mile well kept car I have another example of $1200 for an exhaust bracket, yes these which appears unobtanium. I repaired it employing better welds and found the exact same paint - Stainless U bolts from wallmart would you believe - standard metric U bolt - Perfect

My F1 was jumping out of gear when approaching stop or at stop...this had been going on fore few mths and suspect his is an early sign of potentiometers failing

Thanks your help and hope this helps!

 

Sounds like your actuator is failing. Take the rear diffuser off and check for any weeps/leaks. GTE Engineering will rebuild if needed for a fraction of the cost of a replacement F1 kit.

 

No..actuator failure is very rare.

 

Ferrari, Lambo, Maserati, all use the same part, all priced differently (tell me it's not a scam). I just grab them from who ever has them in stock from the best price.

Make sure you install them correctly. They kind of "twist" in. If not done right..you will break the sensor arms.

Scan the car before anything. If you get faults for incorrect gear selection..you need shift pots. You could try a relearn..and it may work for a while.. but eventually you will be back where you started.

I will add..when you say "f1 failure" light..are you referring to the red light on the dash that looks like an alien? If so..that is generally a hydraulic issue, which in most cases can be traced back to a bad accumulator. If you have a gear selection issue, the gear change indicator will flash, usually in 4th gear it seems..

 

Rare? I don’t think so. Happened to me and several others I know. Ask GTE how many 430 actuators they rebuild.
Why shouldn’t he at least check it out??


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Actuator failures are rare. Misdiagnosed all the time. GTE has built a business on this fact. Have I sent stuff to him..YES. for system pressure leakage..NOT because of dropping into neutral or a flashing gear selction indicator.

I will bet your actuator repair wasn't the issue..you got hosed...sorry. I have plenty f430/360 cars with upwards of 60k miles..never had the need to rebuild an actuator or power unit. Very..very rare it is required.

 

Curious. What do you do when an actuator was leaking like mine?


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Before I could even remotely answer that question, I would have to see the data. Pressure loss is normal, which is why the pump needs to cycle. I could confidentiality put money on the fact all you needed was a 300 buck accumulator

 

The car is long gone now. Basically this is what happened. Car was going into neutral. Shifts were messed up. Brought to an official Ferrari dealer. They diagnosed as a leaking actuator. Losing pressure. It wasn’t covered under power warranty. They said I needed a new actuator. Not sold separately. Needed to buy a whole F1 kit they said. $18k. I learned about GTE. I sent them my actuator. They fixed it. $2500. Problem solved. I don’t think I was hosed but that is just me.

 

My actuator has also been rebuilt by GTE (by the previous owner) and it shifts perfectly now.

 

If you have OEM exhaust manifolds, ditch those U bolts. They cause too much stress on the manifolds from heat expansion and will result in the infamous cracking.