I tried to search and I can see that F360 are mostly got issues with Variator, not F430 the CEL came up few weeks ago and I took it to the dealer, which they checked and told me that there are some oil on the Variator solenoid which I know it's a common issue on these cars, so I ordered all the 4 sensors and let the dealer change themy. Took like 3-4 weeks for the parts to arrive and get the work done. I've been told that I need to pay them for 20hrs labor!! Which I tried to search and found none mechanic people do the job in 4 hours max. After some argument, they charged me for 10hrs labor which I still think it's too much. Anyway, I received the car, drove it for like 30 miles, same code came up again! I took it back to them, and a week later they called me saying that I need to change the Variator. Do I need to pay for labor again? Isn't there a way for Ferrari dealer to find out issues that related to code P1528 while they are at it and ask me to change the failed parts? Instead of doing things 1 by 1 ? Do I need to change all Variators?
What I think you need is a different dealer to take you car to. Anyone that starts out charging for 20 hours labor then cuts it in half to appease an angry owner is fraudulent at best. The attorney general for your state should be notified. What did they estimate before changing the sensors? You should have gotten this in writing to minimize any surprises if you didn't. I also have been screwed by dealers in the past and avoid them unless I have to have a car diagnosed. I recently passed on a couple of F430's and stories like yours make me glad I did. Good luck as this will be pricey to resolve.
It's seems to be a common issue on F430s too. I had all 4 changed on my last annual service as a precaution as they were all oil soaked. It was discovered while changing the cam cover gaskets.... I think I was charged around 5 hours labor for the whole job.
There is a difference between variator and variator selenoid A variator failure usually will cause misfire and ticking noise from the cam area. They will need to pull it out and re-time the engine etc. 20hrs sounds about right. A variator selenoid is a easy change u can do it when u are replacing cam cover gasket. I havent heard of varaiator failure on 430. Yes selenoid is common. So im interested to know more
If you look at the harness connector that go to the Selenoid sensor that along the valve cover there known for the harness to get overheating and melt the harness with the plastic protector cover it will bring up a P1528 code because the harness run along so close to the exhaust header, if it melted it a quick fix done many on 430 save alot of time and money
I replaced all 4 of mine when I fixed a leaky valve cover. This is a common problem when you rev the car before the oil is up to temp. If I remember it was around 5 hours. I got my solenoids from the Eurospares in the UK. Cost was about 275 USD each.
The dealer said that they need bring out the engine to change the Variator. So I tried to look around for other garages, the best I could find is in Dubai. A friend fixed his Ferrari with them few years ago and recommended by him. Would be like 8-10 hours driving. And I spoke to them, they had informed me about the procedure they would follow and actually would end up cheaper than the dealer even they going to replace the Variator. Here what the garage told me which I think it's proper way to do it: · If sensor are replaced and wiring is not cleaned properly possible to have same fault again · If this is due to variators first we need to replace engine oil and bleed tappets to see it further is this is the same fault · After doing above we still have same problem then we should focus on Variators
That sounds like a garage who knows what they are talking about. Some tappets can be sensitive to oil type. Something you could do is look into whether you know what kind of oil is in there now and compare it to what is prescribed. And if in doubt, have it changed locally, preferably by recommendation of that garage by what type. I would think that bleeddown of the tappets should normally be completed within a number of heatcycles. Perhaps that is something to undertake before taking the car over such distances. I would do this in communication with that garage so that you can all agree that step in the diagnosis process has been taken. Do ask them what they think is needed if that fails and deeper digging is required. I believe the variators can be changed with the engine in, but that is still quite a big job. best combined with a major, belts are part of this process.
The engine can be left in... You only have to remove the valve covers and they are right there on top. And once the seal is broken keeping the oil out of the wiring harness, you will continue to have an issue. Image Unavailable, Please Login
So i took the decision and put it on flatbed, sent it for a 9 hours drive all the way to Dubai. As the garage said, they asked when was last time I changed oil, it was about 250 miles ago at the only dealership we got in Bahrain.. they said that they would need to drain it and do it again which I told them to go ahead. The car was ready last week to test so I decided to fly and give them a visit. I drove the car like 25 miles and when I came back to the garage, the CEL came back again. However this time was without description which the service advisor told me that this usually comes up when you have a dirt into the oil pump filter and 80% this is the issue. He asked for my precision to open it and change the filter which I gave him the green light. And yesterday I got below pics from them.. Waiting for it to get ready and test drive it again.. Let's hope nothing else got affected .. I will keep updating the thread till its all solved. 😢 Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
What the...?! That crap in your oil and those rubber bands? Woah, looks like sabotage to me. The filter was gritty too. Hope this got resolved...old thread.
Ah.. so happy that I don't live in a country with technicians who don't know WTF they're doing... (yes. This is Seriously terrible service.. I presume they checked the wiring harness as well? )
Surprisingly, the above is not uncommon on the 360 and F430. It's down to sloppy application of gasket sealant and surface coatings. It can be an indication that a car is relatively low mileage.
I just had all 4 variators replaced on 06 F430. 20 hours of labor is what I was charged also. All four leaking oil. Was told his is common in 430s and 599s.
My variator solenoid control valves also had oil. I believe the oil residue came from slight leak on valve covers. But the oil was only present on the electrical connector disconnects so Im thinking the oil got inside the connector contacts and thus giving a faulty reading. I purchased a connector contact cleaner from Amazon. I sprayed the variator solenoid control valves connectors heavily until they are free of any oil residue. Let the connectors dry, then hooked them up again. I never had a fault but I sensed a decrease in power and that's when I checked the variators. After cleaning the connector contacts I felt an increase in power so it must have worked. The variator solenoid control valves are not easy to replace that's why they charge a good amount of labor. They also cost around $850.00 each I believe last time I looked them up at Ricambi. Here's what my research shows trying to find the most reasonably priced variators: Ricambi: $861.00 each, eBay seller from Germany $750.00, Eurospares UK: $641.00 plus shipping plus VAT. Scuderia Car Parts USA: $565.00 each. Hope that helps. Dan
I was told the small amount of oil leaking didn’t really affect any performance. Problem is oil migrating down the wires into the ECU and causing damage. Honestly, I thing if one can figure a way to stop the oil creeping that far, you could live with it. Variations for me were $1100 a piece from dealer. My mechanic only uses dealer supplied parts because they have one year warranty
Yes, that is the 430, the 360's solenoid are on the outside, and the cams are belt driven, not chain.
Hey Dan, where are these electrical connections? I’m assuming the ones close to the solenoid inside the valve covers? It’s nothing outside of the engine, right?
They are outside on top of the valve covers. One on each side is wrapped in insulation (you need to remove the metal heat shields to see it). Due to the heat they tend to be VERY brittle. When you try to disconnect them, there’s a good chance that the locking tabs may snap. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Awesome pic. I haven’t taken the shield off yet, but here’s what mine looks like using endoscope… I am assuming this isn’t good, ha… Question is now if this a new leak or an old leak or what. I had the valve cover gaskets replaced when I got the car and that shop is usually really good about spotting other things and giving me the old “while we are in here.” So I’d like to think that it’s new… I’ll also have to check for melting, I’ve read that’s a potential issue too. Image Unavailable, Please Login
