Can someone tell me the temp that the standard fan switch on the radiator turns the fans on? I am replacing the radiator that is in the car (308 gt/4) with a custom aluminum unit and I think I would like to get a switch that turns the fans on the same as the old one did. As a second question is there a good reason to go with a different temp setting for the switch? I am in Michigan so it rarely gets that hot, and I never get stuck in traffic.
I checked the Sticky Thread before i asked the question. There are lots of part numbers for switches that will fit in the origional location but that is not my issue. i am starting with a clean sheet so what i was interested in was the temp that the origional switch turns on at 160F, 180F, 200F?
The temp it activates and turns off at should be stamped on one of the flats on the brass cased switch itself in degrees C. I believe it is around 86 or 88 C activation temp, or around 190F, but I no longer own a 308 or 328 and can't check. Hopefully someone else here can.
Yeah Paul, Appears there are many people on this site who would benefit from subscribing to your collection of OM manuals.. It's been invaluable for me that's for sure ! You should post a banner on this site? Tom
Would rather they benefit from the wiring diagrams which are my legacy. OM are just icing and convenience for those 'members'. Anyone can always hit the Aussy site for OMs - http://www.ferraridatabase.com/The_Downloads/Manuals_Owners.htm ______________________ http://www.FerrariWiring.com
Hi Paul, Yes I should have checked the OM before I asked the question here, but now I have another question. If the fan switch (on the radiator) trips at 183 and the thermostat (on the engine) opens at 180, why are the fans not running all the time? Thanks for the info on the wiring diagrams. I will be sending payment soon.
If you're switching from a pure stock arrangement, I would suggest that you think seriously about making the fan part of the cooling system work better, too: look at installing a SPAL PWM fan controller for the radiator fans. Rather than the "bang-bang" on-off fan control of the stock system, a SPAL PWM fan controller will control the speed of the fan(s) to match the cooling needed by the engine. The SPAL controller uses a coolant temperature sensor, not the temperature switch, and varies the speed of the fan by sending a PWM wave to the fan. The SPAL docs on the controller are very clear, install is easy, and the best part is that you can make the wiring much more reliable at the same time: power the controller from a new fuse right to the battery, bypassing the problematic stock fuse box for this critical system. (In fact, even if you're keeping the stock system, you should think about installing this: the controller is compatible with the factory fans, and the controller is pretty easy to hide, making this an invisible mod that greatly improves reliability of the critical cooling system.) -frank
Frank, Good info, where does one find this fan controller? To the originator of the thread; The fans begin to cut in between 180/183.. I verified this over the past weekend due to a roadside fix because of a blown heater hose. I got lucky as only part of the heater hose was bad. After the fix I wanted to be sure my fans were working properly and they did cut in and out as they should. I do however like the idea of the fan controller or even a switch that allows for the fan to be turned on before 180. I live in the MD/DC/VA metro area and it gets hot here between the traffic, humidity/temps. I hate when I get caught in stop and go watching the temp gauge creep right! Paul
Water path distance, cooling along the path and through the radiator, and time for water to get from engine to lower radiator. Remember that the radiator cools the water even when the fans are off before it reaches the thermo switch.
When my fans go on it looks like 180* is the number. I am assuming my thermostat is stuck open so my water temp never gets above the 1st notch. Somewhere about 165*.
