Fan Switch Temp | FerrariChat

Fan Switch Temp

Discussion in '308/328' started by skipgt4, Jun 7, 2011.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

  1. skipgt4

    skipgt4 Formula Junior

    Joined:
    Nov 3, 2003
    Messages:
    446
    Location:
    GR Michigan
    Full Name:
    Charles VDB
    Can someone tell me the temp that the standard fan switch on the radiator turns the fans on?
    I am replacing the radiator that is in the car (308 gt/4) with a custom aluminum unit and I think I would like to get a switch that turns the fans on the same as the old one did. As a second question is there a good reason to go with a different temp setting for the switch? I am in Michigan so it rarely gets that hot, and I never get stuck in traffic.
     
  2. BigTex

    BigTex Seven Time F1 World Champ Owner Rossa Subscribed

    Joined:
    Dec 6, 2002
    Messages:
    79,380
    Location:
    Houston, Texas
    Full Name:
    Bubba
    There's a part number in the Sticky thread.......180 or 200, something like that....
     
  3. skipgt4

    skipgt4 Formula Junior

    Joined:
    Nov 3, 2003
    Messages:
    446
    Location:
    GR Michigan
    Full Name:
    Charles VDB
    I checked the Sticky Thread before i asked the question. There are lots of part numbers for switches that will fit in the origional location but that is not my issue. i am starting with a clean sheet so what i was interested in was the temp that the origional switch turns on at 160F, 180F, 200F?
     
  4. f355spider

    f355spider F1 World Champ Owner Rossa Subscribed

    Joined:
    May 29, 2001
    Messages:
    18,044
    Location:
    USA
    The temp it activates and turns off at should be stamped on one of the flats on the brass cased switch itself in degrees C. I believe it is around 86 or 88 C activation temp, or around 190F, but I no longer own a 308 or 328 and can't check. Hopefully someone else here can.
     
  5. Paul_308

    Paul_308 Formula 3

    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2004
    Messages:
    2,345
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  6. Squirrelmonkey

    Squirrelmonkey Karting

    Joined:
    Dec 27, 2010
    Messages:
    126
    Location:
    Manitoba ,Canada
    Full Name:
    Tom Thieme
    Yeah Paul,
    Appears there are many people on this site who would benefit from subscribing to your collection of OM manuals..
    It's been invaluable for me that's for sure ! You should post a banner on this site?

    Tom
     
  7. Paul_308

    Paul_308 Formula 3

    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2004
    Messages:
    2,345
  8. skipgt4

    skipgt4 Formula Junior

    Joined:
    Nov 3, 2003
    Messages:
    446
    Location:
    GR Michigan
    Full Name:
    Charles VDB
    Hi Paul,
    Yes I should have checked the OM before I asked the question here, but now I have another question. If the fan switch (on the radiator) trips at 183 and the thermostat (on the engine) opens at 180, why are the fans not running all the time?
    Thanks for the info on the wiring diagrams. I will be sending payment soon.
     
  9. Capitalist

    Capitalist Karting

    Joined:
    Aug 21, 2010
    Messages:
    81
    Location:
    Darien, CT
    Full Name:
    Frank
    If you're switching from a pure stock arrangement, I would suggest that you think seriously about making the fan part of the cooling system work better, too: look at installing a SPAL PWM fan controller for the radiator fans. Rather than the "bang-bang" on-off fan control of the stock system, a SPAL PWM fan controller will control the speed of the fan(s) to match the cooling needed by the engine. The SPAL controller uses a coolant temperature sensor, not the temperature switch, and varies the speed of the fan by sending a PWM wave to the fan. The SPAL docs on the controller are very clear, install is easy, and the best part is that you can make the wiring much more reliable at the same time: power the controller from a new fuse right to the battery, bypassing the problematic stock fuse box for this critical system.

    (In fact, even if you're keeping the stock system, you should think about installing this: the controller is compatible with the factory fans, and the controller is pretty easy to hide, making this an invisible mod that greatly improves reliability of the critical cooling system.)

    -frank
     
  10. onboost

    onboost Formula Junior

    Joined:
    Apr 13, 2004
    Messages:
    758
    Location:
    DC Metro area

    Frank,

    Good info, where does one find this fan controller?

    To the originator of the thread; The fans begin to cut in between 180/183.. I verified this over the past weekend due to a roadside fix because of a blown heater hose. I got lucky as only part of the heater hose was bad. After the fix I wanted to be sure my fans were working properly and they did cut in and out as they should.

    I do however like the idea of the fan controller or even a switch that allows for the fan to be turned on before 180. I live in the MD/DC/VA metro area and it gets hot here between the traffic, humidity/temps. I hate when I get caught in stop and go watching the temp gauge creep right!

    Paul
     
  11. Paul_308

    Paul_308 Formula 3

    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2004
    Messages:
    2,345
    Water path distance, cooling along the path and through the radiator, and time for water to get from engine to lower radiator. Remember that the radiator cools the water even when the fans are off before it reaches the thermo switch.
     
  12. Steve King

    Steve King F1 Rookie

    Joined:
    Feb 15, 2001
    Messages:
    4,367
    Location:
    NY
    When my fans go on it looks like 180* is the number. I am assuming my thermostat is stuck open so my water temp never gets above the 1st notch. Somewhere about 165*.
     
  13. skipgt4

    skipgt4 Formula Junior

    Joined:
    Nov 3, 2003
    Messages:
    446
    Location:
    GR Michigan
    Full Name:
    Charles VDB
    Thanks to everyone for the comments. It has been a big help.
     

Share This Page