Here's maybe a better overview of what I have build. On the left side of the box is a window, where I can throw out the hose from the ventilator. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Thanks John for showing your home made paint booth. That looks very nice. I think it's located in a shed? I've looked at air flow capacity of a cheap kitchen ventilator and it's about 295 m3 per hour. That's quite a bit more than with the professional paint booth that I posted the link of (about 180 m3 per hour). The capacity of bathroom ventilator I'm currently using is only 95 m3 per hour. But I've found one that has a much larger capacity (292 m3 per hour). I can easily replace it and it's very cheap. It's also suitable for moist air (bathroom) so I assume it's well isolated (preventing a spark reaching the vapours). I'm still wondering why it happened only with the red paint and not with previous paint jobs (primer, tan, white). No paint dust traces whatsoever of those colours, not even in the booth itself. That's one side of the problem hopefully tackled. For the other (too much paint by using spray cans) I'm still thinking of switching to an airbrush. However, I'm now looking at a single action version. My paintwork will almost exclusively be even coats, so I don't think I need the doublt action and single action should be easier to operate. Any flaws in my reasoning? I'm looking at this one, but any recommendations are welcomed. https://www.toemen.nl/product/airbrush-pistool-bd-116c-met-03mm-en-05mm-en-08mm-nozzle
The only thing I can say is that you are right about the spraycans, I am using too much paint. But it is so much easyer to paint big scale models and in opposite of an airbrush you do not have to clean it. So, everyone has his own way of working that he like best.
Spray cans come with their own problems, they are not trouble free, can leak and clog, etc. Airbrush cleaning is usually just a matter of a few seconds of thinners and the occasional strip down for thorough cleaning. Avoid the siphon-feed airbrushes that use jars - much more work in cleanup.
Ferrari P80C 1/24 scale I just wanted to know how how 3D prints work out. A friend printed this for me from a file from the internet. Below images as it came out from the printer, with removed supporting material and along with a Carrera 458 body. Very long way to go, I´m not sure wether I will continue this project… Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Looks very much like the early days of very low res 3D printing. Extremely rough. Good luck with this!
I'm back at this problem. I bought an airbrush spraygun and wanted to use the paint from a Tamiya spray can to finish off the model I was painting with that can (225 Vignale spider). I decanted the paint from the spray can into a glass bottle and let it degas overnight. In preparing the paint for the spray gun I added thinner and the result was horrible: the paint started to flake in the bottle. So now I'm looking for the correct red paint to finish the job. Italian Red is available in a bottle, but in lacquer form only (LP-21). I'm hesitant to use lacquer paint to finish an acrylic paint job? Tamiya has only one acrylic red available in a bottle: X7 Gloss Red. I have no idea if this is similar to Italian Red. So I have three options: - buy another spray can and try to decand it a second time, - use the lacquer paint over the acrylic, - use X7 Gloss Red and hope it's the correct shade of red. Any thoughts on what is the best way to go ahead?
In searching on the internet I get conflicting information. It seems that the TS spray paints aren't acrylic after all? Or that they at least aren't affected by lacquer paint. Very confusing.
I decided to finish the paint job with the spray can. The new ventilator worked very well. It has so much more power than the old one. No overspray. The result won't win any contests, but for a first try it's not bad. I learned a lot during the proces, including from my mistakes as well as from browsing Youtube. For the next job I will use the airbrush. Now I'm finishing the model build with painting details and quite a bit of details need to be glued on. Unfortunately the glue I use (Revell Contacta) reacted with the paint as you can see in the picture (below the headlight). I've always used this glue and rarely have this problem (except with a special kind of paint). So now I'm looking for the correct type of glues to go ahead. I need a glue that won't affect paint and is suitable for Photoets parts. I also need a glue for the transparant windscreen. Obviously that needs to be a glue that won't be visible. Which glues (brands, type) would be recommended for these two kind of jobs? Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Peter, I am using always Bisonkit (contact-glue) , for PE- parts CA-glue (seconde lijm) and for your clear parts Microscale Kristal Klear . Image Unavailable, Please Login
Any of these should work for your needs. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I've finally finished the build of the MT-Models Vignale spider. I had to do quite a bit of scratch building to complete this model: - complete exhausts (except for the molded in mufflers), - gear lever, - steering column and indicator stalk, - windscreen (the original part of the kit was no good). I also added a boss to the steering wheel (which is only a flat piece of PE). Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login The next project will probably the 308 GTB/M conversion of a Hot Wheels model that I started years ago, but which I put aside when Ottomobile came out with their version. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
HI all. I hope work on non-Ferrari models is also welcome here. I am eyeballs deep into a Pagani project that is killing my eyes, back and every joint in my body plus really trying my patience while subconsciously trying to set a new record for most F-bombs dropped in the shortest period of time. Anyway. I hope you enjoy it. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
The air boxes were included in the kit, but nothing behind them and no connections to the turbos, so I used part of them and then scratch built everything else, before covering it in carbon. Now the air filters are visible. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Thank you. I'm done with the front end too. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Tamiya TS paints are synthetic solvent based lacquer. Unfortunately "acrylic" and "lacquer" both get used to describe several different types of paint making this a somewhat complicated and confusing part of model building.
Sounds very familiar! And I'm working on a larger scale, can't imagine the patience you have on that level of detail and scale size. Very impressive. When I watch Youtube channels of model makers they make it look so easy. Everything falls right into their place and just a touch of glue fixes everything. With me, everything is glued except the part I wanted! But I keep going on. A small project with another wheel swap. I never liked the Boranni wire wheels on the late sixties Ferraris like the 330 GTC. I much prefer the Campagnolos. So when I came across an Ebay seller who makes Campagnolo wheels (in different sizes), I immediately bought the GTC by CMR and did the wheel swap. I also swapped the tires. The original ones of the CMR model are way too large and fill the whole wheel arches. Instead, I used tires from the KK-Scale Lusso that I had lying around. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
The Campagnolo wheels came unpainted. The center knock-offs should be chrome so I bought Tamiya X-11 Chrome Silver for the job. Unfortunately, it didn't turn out quite as shiny as I hoped. So I had to choose a more toned down colour for the wheels themselves (in real life it looks better than in these pictures). Does anyone know a better way to simulate chrome?