FChat Completed Models and WIP Thread | Page 5 | FerrariChat

FChat Completed Models and WIP Thread

Discussion in 'Collectables, Literature, & Models' started by zoRob, May 22, 2009.

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  1. Latsyrc

    Latsyrc F1 Rookie

    Jun 23, 2008
    2,798
    Utah, USA
    Full Name:
    Travis
    Cool story. :)
     
  2. moriaan1

    moriaan1 Formula 3

    Dec 3, 2006
    2,328
    Netherlands
    Full Name:
    Hans
    Paolo Tron is still active on ebay tronpaolo is his username..
    You must know the TSSK mailorder-catalogue they used to publish twice a year..
    Every handbuilt modell and kit made could be ordered!
    I remember opening several packages form Italy with AMR, Tron, or very early built BBR's...
    A few years ago I got an 275GTS Nart from Paolo from his old HE14 series..

    Fantastic shop! Got me addicted to handbuilt models!

    His wife is Enrica, the 1:14 models they made, carried her name.
     
  3. the_stig

    the_stig F1 Rookie

    Sep 19, 2005
    3,477
    Yes, I've seen Paolo on Ebay and on his (long gone) web page. I remember the catalog but the really big catalog back then was the one from Danhausen in Germany. Kind of a tease because it showed you models that were already sold out worldwide.
    Milano 43 was a very cool shop to visit. I used to commission them to build models for me and the finished product was always available fairly quickly. Thanks for the name, I would never have remembered it after all of these years.
    The other good shop in Milan was Zeppelin although they sold more than just 1/43 models.

    Somewhere in my archives I bet I still have a "Milano 43" sticker with the shop address on it.
     
  4. ferrarilover

    ferrarilover F1 Rookie

    Nov 5, 2003
    2,558
    Barrie, ON, Canada
    Full Name:
    Christopher Bailey
    Hello

    as mentioned in thread earlier I'm restoring a kids pedal car, looks like my baby due next month has its first Ferrari!

    Check out pics here:
    http://s663.photobucket.com/albums/uu358/cdn4re/Testarossa%20project/?albumview=grid

    So. I'm pleased with the body shops paint job. Its the decals I'm not 100% happy with. I gave the guy the dimensions I wanted and told them to place the testarossa decal further to the right as it should be, but did they listen ?!?! Oh well, I still think its lookin pretty hot. I painted the black trim with a gloss black, dried overnight at work will take home and put on tonight.

    Comments? Remember: its a work in progress.

    Chris
     
  5. zoRob

    zoRob Formula 3

    Oct 31, 2006
    2,004
    Cambs, UK
    Cool. Your son has a pretty good start in life, he owns a Ferrari before he is even born :)
     
  6. ferrarilover

    ferrarilover F1 Rookie

    Nov 5, 2003
    2,558
    Barrie, ON, Canada
    Full Name:
    Christopher Bailey

    Actually we want a surprise and do not know the gender. If its a girl, She'll play with it too?

    Chris
     
  7. toddjw73

    toddjw73 F1 Rookie

    Feb 5, 2004
    3,506
    Nor-Cal
    Full Name:
    Todd Westbrook
    That is just to cool! :cool:
    Doesn't matter if it is a boy or a girl. It will be well worth it in the end.
    CONGRATS on the baby. Be sure to post pics of when in the car.

    Now I am going to have to start searching to find one just to put it in my office.
     
  8. zoRob

    zoRob Formula 3

    Oct 31, 2006
    2,004
    Cambs, UK
    Sorry, I thought I read that it was a boy so please accept my apologies. It's still going to be a great toy regardless :)
     
  9. ferrarilover

    ferrarilover F1 Rookie

    Nov 5, 2003
    2,558
    Barrie, ON, Canada
    Full Name:
    Christopher Bailey
    No offence taken whatsoever. I would have done the same, assume its a boy that is.

    Its all good. HE or SHE will enjoy the car I'm sure!

    Chris
     
  10. Latsyrc

    Latsyrc F1 Rookie

    Jun 23, 2008
    2,798
    Utah, USA
    Full Name:
    Travis
  11. Latsyrc

    Latsyrc F1 Rookie

    Jun 23, 2008
    2,798
    Utah, USA
    Full Name:
    Travis
    #112 Latsyrc, Jun 19, 2009
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  12. Dino Scuderia

    Dino Scuderia Formula Junior

    Sep 7, 2005
    565
    Southeast US
    Here's a tip for you.

    Instead of using putty for this application it's much better and faster to use superglue.

    The glue sets in a matter of seconds, dries harder, won't shrink and there isn't all that excess to sand off.

    Superglue is a modelers dream for filling gaps and small depressions.
     
  13. Latsyrc

    Latsyrc F1 Rookie

    Jun 23, 2008
    2,798
    Utah, USA
    Full Name:
    Travis
    You may have just saved me 24-25 hrs. :) Ty for the tip.
     
  14. Camoradi

    Camoradi Karting

    Jun 12, 2006
    81
    Peak District, UK
    Full Name:
    Steve Barnett
    I agree in theory with using superglue as a gap filler, but be very careful. You really only want to use it on a material that has a similar hardness as the dried superglue. So superglue on metal, OK, superglue on plastic, generally speaking no. It comes down to the point you want to flat it down, where a hard material will resist the sandpaper more than the softer surrounding material. If not very careful you end up with a hump left by the superglue, and the more you sand it the more the hump stays put because you keep removing more plastic than glue. Flat areas can be OK because you can use a block and a flat sanding motion, but on curves I would never use superglue. Overall I think white or green Milliput is best for plastic.

    Steve
     
  15. Martin308GTB

    Martin308GTB F1 Rookie

    Jan 22, 2003
    4,212
    Black Forest Germany
    Full Name:
    Martin N.
    not the putty itself is the problem, but the amount you applied. I prefer - on 1:1 cars also - to apply THIN coats, sanding and repeat if necessary.

    Best Regards from Germany

    Martin
     
  16. moriaan1

    moriaan1 Formula 3

    Dec 3, 2006
    2,328
    Netherlands
    Full Name:
    Hans
    using small layers has the benefit that it doesn't shrink to much.. Every kind of filler is tended to shrink when drying.
     
  17. Dino Scuderia

    Dino Scuderia Formula Junior

    Sep 7, 2005
    565
    Southeast US
    Superglue on plastic is absolutely not a problem, it sands very easily and the amount of plastic removed in the sanding process is not an issue. Once you practice with it a couple times like anything else you'll acquire a technique that works perfectly. You will determine a sanding grit that works best, for me it's a slightly worn piece of 220 grit paper.

    I've probably built over 20 plastic models using superglue and add to that another 15 guys in my model club equaling 100's of models built with the technique and no problems what so ever.
     
  18. Zoom Zoom

    Zoom Zoom Karting

    Jul 15, 2006
    93
    Georgia
    Full Name:
    Bob
    If you apply superglue and use an accelerator, when it's first applied and for about an hour or so the hardness is almost identical to that of the plastic surrounding it. It takes a short while for it to fully crystallize. The idea is to sand it immediately, do not wait.

    I've used superglue as a gap filler in place of putty many times on plastic with none of the issues you claim. The ability to apply it, "kick it", and immediately sand it makes it one of the best "new" materials for plastic modelers in the past couple decades. It revolutionized how we can quickly assemble models, and it's helped do the same for minor bodywork. If you must use a putty for larger areas use a 2 component polyester automotive glazing & spot putty such as Evercoat Eurosoft or Metal Glaze. It's much finer, no shrinkage, and you can sand in about 10 or 15 minutes. This is also one of those revolutionizing materials for modelers. It's time to throw the old fashioned tube glue and air-cure putties in the garbage as there are far better products out there that make modeling a lot easier/faster/more fun to accomplish.

    In addition, when assembling the model w/superglue if you use the accelerator it also completely eliminates the fogging that can happen w/superglues. I have a special dropper needle applied to the cap of my accelerator, apply a drop of superglue to the spot where the part goes, apply the part, apply a drop of accelerator. Done. No waiting, no fogging.
     
  19. Latsyrc

    Latsyrc F1 Rookie

    Jun 23, 2008
    2,798
    Utah, USA
    Full Name:
    Travis
    The pics are deceiving. I rolled up a tiny amount and put it around the edges, then fit the pieces together and pressed it together. The excess was removed after I took these pictures. I'll have to do as you suggest with small layers, though. :) Ty for the tips as always.

    As far as the super glue goes, I'm sure there are several different techniques and things you can do. The putty is easy for me and I already have it on hand. :) I'll have to practice with your suggestions and will find what I like. Thanks for the tips as well. :)

    I took a break from the modeling last night to do some racing on Gran Turismo 5 Prologue. :)
     
  20. Camoradi

    Camoradi Karting

    Jun 12, 2006
    81
    Peak District, UK
    Full Name:
    Steve Barnett
    Yeah, OK, you know best, I'll shut up.


    Steve
     
  21. moriaan1

    moriaan1 Formula 3

    Dec 3, 2006
    2,328
    Netherlands
    Full Name:
    Hans
    This is such a nice thread.. lets keep everybody on board!

    Steve builts more than any of us, has or ever will be.
    His work is valued among the the worlds best (if not the best! i.m.o.)
    http://www.stevebarnettmodelcars.com

    Dino, what works for you isn't a good thing for every-one. Maybe it works good on plastic, but whitemetal or resin is another kind of material.
     
  22. Dino Scuderia

    Dino Scuderia Formula Junior

    Sep 7, 2005
    565
    Southeast US
    Of course, and I'm trying to force it on anyone, it's just a good tip.

    White metal is it's own monster but superglue works just as well on resin as styrene.

    Superglue also drills and saws very good.

    Steve's models are fabulous, too bad his ego is such that no one is allowed to offer a tip, then responding to his misinformation about said tip without being talked down to. Ah well, I've been building for 40 years and seen all kinds of ego's in the hobby, he's just one more.
     
  23. Camoradi

    Camoradi Karting

    Jun 12, 2006
    81
    Peak District, UK
    Full Name:
    Steve Barnett

    You know 'Dino', I did say "generally speaking" for a good enough reason in suggesting super glue was not a good first choice for plastic. On a regular basis I use six or seven different super glues. Each has it own application, but one thing is obvious, they aren't all the same hardness, they don't all fill gaps in the same way, and the thixotropic qualities have no bearing on eventual strength or hardness. So in saying "generally speaking" it was in the knowledge that big broad brush advice doesn't work if the guy isn't using the same materials as you. If I did like using superglue on plastic I'd perhaps have considered suggesting one that works well as a filler.

    Lets figure you must have dealt with all the eventualities by now, and obviously think highly enough of yourself to be able to offer definitive advice that contains not 'ifs or buts'. I just don't want to validate your advice, and if you think that is spreading 'misinformation' then you have some growing up to do. So who cares if you think casually dropping into the discussion your 15 friends and 40 years experience can swing it, I don't want that sort of pissing contest with you and don't understand why you have started it? Just leave me out, I'm not interested.

    Steve

    P.S. "220 grit" doesn't mean the same thing around the world either, neither in coarseness or type of paper. So in rubbing down whatever superglue filler is recommended modellers should be careful they are talking about the same thing.
     
  24. Dino Scuderia

    Dino Scuderia Formula Junior

    Sep 7, 2005
    565
    Southeast US
    Yeah, that's why there are tools called conversion tables.
     

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