Ferrari 308 problems

I have stuck a camera scope up the vent into the heater/ defroster to look at the flap and it is working properly diverting the air to heat or defrost. I am thinking that the problem might be in the RH heater box and the LH heater box that the air is not making it past that. I see no way of looking behind it even witht the scope because of the diverter connection and the the three way connector that is after the diverter. simple system but yet so complicated.

 

Thanks for the suggestions they all sound great. I just noticed this weekend that my alternator is not charging my battery fully. I put my tester on the battery and the alternator is reading low output. Does anyone have any recommendations on a replacement for the 308 QV?

 

anyone have any suggestion on replacing the alternator. Is it worth to just replace it or get it rebuilt?.

 

Rebuilding is usually far cheaper -- unless the Rebuilder knows that it is for a Ferrari

 

yeah I am guessing that also about them rebuilding for a Ferrari. Should I get it rebuilt for a higher amp than the standard 65amp?

 

You're confusing me a little here. AFAIK:

308 Carb = 55A alternator
308i-2V = 65A alternator
308QV = 80A alternator (and some of these with the single belt driving the WP and alternator had trouble so that's when they went to having separate v-belts for the WP and alternator)

If you have the single v-belt driving both the WP and alternator, be careful about juicing the alternator up. If your 308QV does have the single v-belt driving the WP and a 65A alternator, I wonder if someone went back from the 80A alternator to the earlier 65A alternator as the "fix" for some trouble with the single belt set-up -- just a thought...

 

I was under the impression that I have the 65amp alternator. my car is the 1983 GTS QV engine.

 

Can only add that the 248/82 OM for a 1982-1986 euro 308QV and the 260/83 OM for a 1983 US 308QV both specify an 80A alternator. However, if you've got the single v-belt driving both the WP and the alternator = a 65 A alternator is not a terrible choice IMO.

 

I looked in the manual and no mention of what the car should have as far as the amps on the alternator. I did look at one of the Ferrari vendors website and they are selling the 85amp for the 308 QV engine.

 

248/82 OM page 16 = 80A alternator
260/83 OM page 20 = 80A alternator

 

Wouldn't say that you'll have a problem for sure with a 80A alternator (or even a 85A alternator) with the single drive belt for the WP and alternator, but it happened often enough that Ferrari did a Service Bulletin 10-10 (with a fairly expensive kit of parts that are now unobtainium) to convert to the two v-belt system "If you find that a vehicle has experienced repeated water pump/alternator belt failures...". Don't have it in a single pdf file, but here are the pages:

Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

when the old fusebox get old you get resistans in the oxided joints on the fuses, this cause higher amperage and heat and the fuses will go out, regarding that you not get air to vents, you need to check that the levers in the car is functional and open the airvent flap

 

you do know that you have diffrent fans for defroster and AC, defroster fan is the old school switch and not the AC fan knob.

 

An increase in resistance at the fuseblock joints can never cause the current to go up -- what happens is the small increase in resistance at the connection causes the current to drop a very small insignificant amount (so the device served by the fuse still works), but the I^2*R heating at the connection goes way, way up (even though the current has dropped a very small amount) = that's what "cooks" the connection even more, and melts things, until the resistance of the connection does go up so high as to reduce the current so much that the item served by the fuse stops working.

 

I plan on changing out the fuse panel that was always one of my plans to do on the. I want to update as much as possible to make everything work well. I am working on making sure all the vents lever are working properly by lubricating the cables. Kind of hard to do right now that it's getting cold here in Chicago. my problem now is that my battery is not staying charged. I put a special meter I have to test the battery voltage and the alternator and it's telling me the alternator is putting out low output. the voltage on battery when car is running should be at least 13.8v and I am only getting 12v.

 

Thanks to everyone that responded to my questions. appreciate all the help and suggestions.

 

I am taking out the alternator to have it rebuilt, I take it that there is not easy way of taking it out without taking heater pipe out the way. Has anyone done this yet and what did you do. There are no videos out there on the 308 but a guy made one for the 328. Any suggestions would be great.

 

They had Bosch alternators that were one of the most reliable components of the car. I would be sure it is really bad before removing.

Not that hard to get out but do not even consider trying to work around the water pipe. That would add a hour to avoid a 15 minute job.

 

I put a tester on the battery that measures the battery and alternator output, and the alternator is low output and battery is not showing more then 12v while running it should at least 13.8v to 14v. It does not look like a 15 minute job so far to take alternator out and that water pipe is in a ****ty spot.

 

1983 Ferrari 308 GTS/QV I am getting car ready for summer and doing some Maintenace on it so I am going through the entire car to make sure everything is working. I turn fan switch on and turn the speed selector one notch faster and the fuse blow. Anyone have any thoughts on that. working on the electrical system on cars is not my strong suit.

 

If the fuse is blowing then you have a short somewhere. Could be the switch itself, could be the wiring going from the switch to the fuse.

This is a pretty simple explanation, he uses a bulb, but it is the same principal for a switch.

 

I would clarify: if the fuse blows instantaneously when you flip the switch to the higher speed, then you have a short. If the fuse blows after a delay (say more than a second) when switching from low to a higher speed, then you have an overload. Check the wiring to the fan relays. Most likely it's a short. An overload, btw, could be caused by mechanical drag in the fan motor due to failing bearings.

 

+1 -- A fuse (carrying a large current) can also melt prematurely (i.e., at a current lower than the rated current of the fuse) if there is a poor connection between the fuseblock metal terminal and the end cap of the fuse -- so OP make sure the terminals are clean and tight. OP -- are you saying that you have replaced the fuse, and it blew again in a similar fashion?

 

Hi everyone hope you all head a good Easter. I spent my weekend trying to my car ready for summer. I was running the car and turning on my headlights and nothing was happening when I tuned on the switch. The relays are testing good they just will not pop up and stay there. Could use any info on what to check and make them work this would really suck not being able to use them.