Ferrari 328 Power Issue

Let us know if the coil wire issue was the problem...

 

Unlikely. Or 50% of all 308/328 will never run.

 

they SHOULD last a long time - between belt changes and valve jobs, but they can easily be pinched and that is what causes the leaks. usually, the leak is not that bad, and does not cover the rotor or ignition lead head... but it can... if the person is inexperienced in the job they will always leak. I've had them changed by the Ferrari Dealer and they leak. Once it was really bad... so they had to re-do the entire belt job. usually, the one on the forward right side of the engine ( bank closest to the passenger's side ) is the one that leaks but they all can. BUT if you overfill the engine ... you can pump out quite a bit. it normally leaks down the side of the head, and drips onto the headers, .. you will see a trail of blue smoke.... it can be dangerous if there is a lot, but usually its small slow drip that burns off ... and when the engine cools down you get larger opening... causes the leak. 328's are a bit better than 308's.. not sure what was different but the little o rings are tiny. More annoying than anything.

if you have a leak in the distributor - then defiantly clean it off, well, make sure the cap is not cracked or broken... that can cause all kinds of running issues. while in there check all your vacuum hoses too. that can mimic electrical issues. the auxiliary air valve is notorious for being noisy/ getting stuck, and the hoses under it can get cracked because they are close to the headers... lots of heat / cool cycles there. - they are not hard to replace just getting the right hose is important as there is a lot of vacuum. the Fuel injection in the 308-328 series is pretty bulletproof, ( unless its been tampered with in the past.) most issues are electrical - especially when they just pop up. I had a 308/328 for over 25 years - and learned to always start with electrics 1st. it's a weak spot. the 328 is better but not perfect.

 

I agree. it can get messy in there, but usually does not stop them from running, unless it's a huge leak, and simply spraying it all over, which you would know as there would be a cup or more of oil in there.
BE CAREFUL - as you un-do the distributer in case you have a lot of oil in there - the clutch inspection plate is right below the distributors - YOU DO NOT WANT OIL ON THE CLUTCH!!! - that would be a bad and $$$$day.

 

I would agree - the injectors are not usually a problem... they can be clogged but don't cause the kind of running problem. they are surprisingly easy to replace on your own... the 308 cars are easy / hard at the same time. they have very particular quirks.... so you either know or not.

 

Sorry that didn't solve the problem but per an earlier post, by the description of the symptoms, it sounds like a fueling issue, not an ignition issue. Be interesting to see what the shop finds.

 

does it restart once its cooled down? I would then look at Vacuum leaks. and or check fuses again. fuel pump fuse / circuit.

 

Its frustrating. My 328 was pretty reliable except for electrical - and vacuum issues... and they can mimic each other. unless you have a bad Warm-up reg or cold start valve, there is not too much fuel wise to go wrong. checking the CO could give you an indication of running issues rich or lean ... and then confirm fuel delivery... having owned one of these for 20 years - it's usually electrical... or air/ vacuum related.

there is a tiny o ring on the idle screw - on the inside, and if that gets cracked /old it can drive you crazy by letting in unmetered air... same with a lot of the vacuum lines. same with the Aux Air valve - if it's not closing as the coolant gets warm... same issue. after it sits and cools down / cold - does it start up again?