Ferrari 328 Shifter Shaft Seals replacement need clarification on a few things

You do not need to remove the oil sump. You can get to that inside seal by removing the transmission pan only.

https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/shift-shaft-seals-procedure-clarity.614243/#post-146977358

Link to my post on my Mondial 3.2.

 

I removed the shift shaft seals from my QV yesterday and I took a couple of pictures. The inner shaft seal is easier to get to from the engine sump side but you can also get to it from the gearbox side. You will have to remove the support plate for the rocker arms to access the shaft hole. On the picture below you see the hole for the shaft in the lower right corner. Make or find a small tool that can reach into the hole so that you can pry out the round seal. Note the direction of the lip on the seal, it shall point towards the engine sump.

Best, Peter

 

If this is your first time, you will be less frustrated if you removed the engine oil pan and gearbox oil pan. After you have done it a couple times, only one will be necessary, and you won't need to touch your center console at all.

 

I agree!

 

If you remove the right fender liner and remove/push aside the alternator it gives much easier access to the dipstick tube nut.

 

The seal between engine and gearbox can be done with only removing the gearbox oil pan. Before putting a new seal in, make sure you put the shaft back just in front of the engine side opening to avoid that the seal slips into the engine sump.

 

An old post of mine with reference links:
https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/posts/149969042/

https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/shifter-shaft-seal-revisited.129690/


https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/shift-shaft-seal-tips.600923/

 

I replaced my seals about 8 years ago. I was unable to get the dipstick off - simply not strong enough to loosen the upper hex from lower hex. I ended up drawing a line on the dipstick below the bend and cutting it with a pipe cutter (leaves no metal residue). I mounted the lower nut in a vise, then used a cheater bar on the nut that holds the dipstick in place. I nearly turned my workbench over. It was ridiculously tight. I butt welded the dipstick back together and repainted it.

 

No, I didn't really take any more detailed pictures of any great interest. It's not rocket science. Two things to remember, don't remove the steel washer that keeps the seal in place. Pick the seal out with something pointed without scratching the aluminum seat. Turn the new seals correctly (Lips against the engine oil) and insert them with you fingers without loosing them into the engine sump (Soften them up with hot water). Ensure the shaft is without any sharp edges and "scratch" the seal surface on the shaft with a grade 500 to 1000 wet sanding paper before greasing and carefully inserting the shaft.

Best, Peter

 

Peter, I dont think those seals have lips...just round rubber rings (OEM) or square (Verrell seals).

 

All 328 and all later 308 have brake cylinder type seals, not O rings. I guess you skipped a lot of the thread.

 

Good summation.

 

My very first time I did not remove the oil pan. Never have. Some of us prefer to work efficiently, not waste time and not needlessly disassemble cars for the sake of it.