360 Ferrari 360 FULL Timing Belt Service - Step by Step Cam Belts

I don't own a 360 but I want to thank you on behalf of the 360 diys out there .. nice work

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When you do a 512tr major I will definitely be watching as well

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The process will be similar except removing drive train I believe which is hard to find anyway (video that is)

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Thanks Scott. About time someone did this. Nice job and although I have done this and have the wsm it’s great to watch and review before I embark again.

I also have used iPhone apps for checking frequency and worked like a charm. I was able to borrow a Ducati frequency meter from a friend the first time I did a major. I found the app was spot on. Got to love smart phones!

I am not a pro, but a couple of little pearls I came up with:

- I used a dollop of play dough and took an impression of the cam marks. Worked amazing to visualize the marks. I was able to save the original impressions and compare them the the marks after degreeing the cams. I could not see the mark on the cam because it’s a hair thick.

- I found putting the belt on the gears, then installing the tensioner bearing made putting on the belt a lot easier. I like your tip of using those clamps to hold the belt.

I believe there should be a piece of radiator hose on the cam gears between the gear and vise grip to prevent marring the gear ( may not matter).


Thanks for making the video, and was definitely worth watching for me.

-ray


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Great job filming this. I've done this job 3X and i just wouldn't have the patience to film it.

 

Scott, enjoying your set of videos. Couple questions, how many km/how old were the belts you replaced? I see some replace tensioners, any thought? And since the 360 is your daily, what have you been using during down time? Cheers, Ernie.


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Fantastic work filming this... I'm in the middle of it myself, always good to see it for real instead of just replaying it in your head while reading the WSM...
Thank you for sharing!!

 

Based. I'm doing my gated 02 as soon as I get back from the W World Cup, I've got the Forza article, the factory manual, and a whole bunch of trans/engine work under my belt on Vipers and Vettes. I'll let you know how it goes.

 

dude impressive!

 

Hey Scott, thought since I’m in the midst of my major, I’d add my little tid bit to your nice belt service thread.

When I did my last major I decided to degree the cams. It was impossible for me to see the cam scribe marks, regardless of what I did . I took an impression with playdough, but that was with the valve covers off and was easier. This time I’m not doing the valve covers gaskets and I found a more elastic option was needed. So I turned to:

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This worked flawlessly. Keep in mind there should be a little lube on the cam ends to decrease adhesion. This will be present.

First roll the stuff into a turd, and try to get out any creases.

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Now push it into the 10:30 position on the 5-8 bank, and 1:30 on the 1-4 bank. This is in line with the bolt hole for the inspection cover.

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Should come out easily. The first few times on each cam the is residual oil should be fine. If you do it a few times you may want to put a tiny film of oil on the putty.

Voila!

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Snap a pic just to be anal so there is nothing left.


Here’s an example of my 5 year old playdough impressions I kept for posterity.

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I don’t think the silly puffy will hold up to 4 years on the shelf as it tends to be more amorphous and “melt” over time. (Childhood experience I don’t play with it any more).

- I hope this helps just one person.

-ray


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I am into this job now and wanted to say thanks so much for making the video. I am presently looking at what material I have around my shop to fashion a flywheel lock tool. I should have bought one but now I don't want to wait for it to get here! What kinds of MacGyvering have you guys done to lock up that flywheel so the main shaft nut can be removed? Mine is a three pedal.


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Simple and cheep. Put car in gear put on ebrake and have wife or assistant step on brake. Crank Bolt should brake free. This has Worked flawlessly for me many times.


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I so wish I had some level of aptitude to do this sort of thing.

 

Am i the only person being really thick and not understanding how this works? Must be more too it?


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i never tried this method. but I think what he meant is this:

when the car's engine's off, the clutch is firmly pressed to the flywheel, which means any engine rotation would result in tire rotation. ( i don't think this is true, though)

by putting into a gear or get a firm step on the brake, u stopped the tire from moving , hence stopped the engine from rotating

under this condition, you can use a socket to remove the crank bolt.

above is I think what he meant. But I think I understood him incorrectly, because this method isn't going to work ---- rotate the engine and the rear wheel/tire will not move

 

In a manual car you can put it in gear when it's off.

 

in an f1 car you can do the same.

The clutch will not bite the flywheel when engine is off.

 

So if you put a MT car in gear when not running it will roll?

This is a common old school method which as long as the clutch is good will work. I have used it three times to both break, and re-torque the crank bolt on my 360.

If you don’t want to try it just buy the special tool for $250.


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let me try it in a few hours. I have the engine inspection cover off as we speak.