Great work Trev. I'm subscribed and 'in' as soon as this is available. The Force is Strong with you brother.
If this is done to a car, is it possible to reverse it to bring it back to stock? And if so, is that an easy or difficult task? Sent from my Pixel XL using FerrariChat.com mobile app
Absolutely yes, fully reversable at any time. Infact you can put your original immobilizers safely into storage along with your fobs and then when the time to sell comes you can always refit them and reflash the original units back to bone standard. At the end of the day think of the 'flash storage' thats integrated into the Engine computers a bit like a PC's primary storage drive. Whatever software is on there it will run. The Bosch units only have 512kbytes (1/2 of 1 megabyte!!!) which wouldn't even fit a typical word document which goes to show how efficient software used to be!!
Can I order a immobilizer unit and send it to you and you can do what you need to it and send it back? Let's do this lol Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
*You dont need the immobilizer units in the car after this change, they are just dead weight You only need a pair of Ignition ecu's. *although you may wish to keep the 'Vehicle Immobilizer' unit in the car so you retain central locking functions. The process is I need physical access to the LEFT and RIGHT bank ignition computers from behind the drip trays in the engine bay. I then take a backup of your current software and email it to you. This is done since there are many tens of variants of the firmware for specific applications so this guarentee's it will work on your car since its your software thats been 'fixed'. It will also mean whatever was in the firmware including remaps for improved performance by Mase (or any other tuner) as an example won't be lost. I verify the dump was successful by validating the checksums and then after this I then run a tool I've written which isolates the immobilizer code and defeats it in your specific firmware file. I then recalculate the checksums with another tool I wrote specifically for the job and then finally I reflash it back to both the left and right banks. Both left and right banks run identical software on the 360. I've even written the tool which can revert the patch and restore the original operation of the factory immobilizer so even if you lost your backup firmware (which I can send you via email) just having access to either a working left or right bank ecu again I can either clone it onto another one or back it up again. Hope that makes sense.. I've done this process MANY times now and since I've made a harness using an original factory connector I cannot really mess it up or damage the pins. I simply place the harness on the ecu and reflash it. Hope this makes sense.
I would buy an immobilo free 360. Great job trev!! I wish someone would could do this with the 5.2 motronic in the 550.
I have the car and glad to be your ginnea pig and pay for your expenses. Sadly, I read your posts about checksums and firmware and have no idea what you are talking about.
I am definitely interested, awaiting further details and instructions.... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Wow! Trev.... I thought I was a rarity with my immo issue. Apparently, those things are junk! We know what happens to them in the desert heat! When you showed up to help with my car, is something I'll never forget. Aside from really figuring out this mystery, it was great bonding with a new friend. I just wish we lived closer. But I'm afraid that if we did, we would never work.... and just 'play cars'! Here's a shot of the offending board and relays. I hate this thing! Image Unavailable, Please Login
Using Dino's picture I've highlighted the Starter Relay that's being controlled by this board. Its primary purpose is to listen for the key fob messages (see small long chip on bottom right) and then send a message to actuate the locks to the microcontroller, see bottom left. Starter Cut These (in red) are pins 12 and 13. They get shorted together to allow you to crank the engine when the fob disengages the alarm. Without these pins being shorted the key won't do anything. Hence if you remove the unit completely and use my immo reflashed Ignition computers you just need to join these two pins together at the connector and then the immobilizer boxes can be completely removed from the vehicle (assuming you can live with using key in lock to unlock/lock). Or simply leave this unit attached but do a manual join of pin 12 and 13 together. Then you can still use the keyfobs you have but they have no purpose other than to lock and unlock doors (no immobilizer purpose). It just becomes a 'flakey' door lock/unlock module. I will later use these pins to provide an drop in replacement keyless entry module with all kinds of goodies such as mobile app controls, information informs when the door is opened or closed, etc. Image Unavailable, Please Login
I'm doing Dino's first and since I already have a copy of his firmware dump I don't need him to send me his ECUs at all. I'm going to flash a spare pair I had lying around from my spare engine which once flashed with his software patched will work right out of the box on his car. The great thing about full immobilizer off in software is that there is no pairing - any 360 ecus work after being reflashed. The most important thing is having the software for you car dumped so that I can apply the patch directly to your firmware variant. Since there are so many different versions. You need the one that came with your car as it matches all of the sensors, emissions kit, etc. That it came from factory with. So if you guys who can dump their SW upload your version onto say Google drive and share a link I'll get to you first. For this I need to know ; 1. Target Market (eg USA, EU, etc.) 2. Model Year 3. Coupe or Spider 4. H-gate or Paddleshift 5. Model, e.g. Modena, Modena Challenge (race car), Challenge Stradale 6. Is it factory firmware or modified. If modified ideally also send me original dump (pre tuned) just in case some funky patches have been done. Just send me a pm..
Already published it years ago on here, do a search. I will look it up if you have trouble and post link.
Below are the pictures from 360trev's post back then. They will tell you how to wire the ECU for the read/write process. If you are not comfortable to perform this process you can mail me your ECUs and I'll do it for you. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Thank you SanFran. Most appreciated. I had also found a related link on FL site Very grateful for your post Thinking of a connector from AMP to mate the ECU plug and fabricating a cable to ease the download If I do not do I will get with you. Again thank you
I need this bad !... last time out had to how car home . Testing it at home sometimes it disarms but usually not . Don't trust driving it .