Boot is on pin 20 and I let it grounded all the time. I found that much more reliable. Pin 10 is not used. My set-up to work on : - ECU reflash - Reset of Immo data in ECUs - pairing with alarm and immo - PIN extraction and verification - programmation of fobs Image Unavailable, Please Login
The PIN number is saved on the EEPROM of one of the engine ECU’s. I assume this is the easiest place to retrieve it. Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat.com mobile app
Hey Guys, Sorry its been a bit crazy lately and the fallout from Covid-19 is causing havoc to our daily routines right now! After deleting tens of failing immobilizers now I don't actually recommend using them anymore. I've seen first hand how destructive they can be to other electronics in your car if they start to fail. If the voltage regulator starts to fail it can cause massive spikes which can erase the dashboard eeprom (leaving it with an X in place of the shift and it needing reprogramming, bye bye accurate mileage). Furthermore it can kill other ecu's too. AV Engineering can delete the immobilizer for you entirely and they can also do some very nice upgrades now too such as conversion of the cat ecu monitoring solution to an estimation modelling (removing the troublesome Cat Ecu's and thermo couples entirely!), de-sensitizing of Cat Efficiency CEL's so you can fit sports cats without fear of CEL (or removal completely). Plus ofcourse upgrade to ' Beyond ' Challenge Stradale performance. The people who've had the latest ' hot ' maps have been blown away by the differences to the point they are talking about 're-learning' how to drive their cars. Mad. Trev
Nice setup. I've written the 1024 byte eeprom calculation tool tool now too and incorporated it into my SAK tool. You can ofcourse also change the PIN too but ofcourse you'll also need to do the same in the immobilizer units too. For people who ain't geeks (and lets face it most aren't!) I'm almost done now with a little standalone unit and OBD reprogramming! No need to remove the ecu's. Plug in to OBD port and also doubles up as a low cost SD3 alternative..
No, you are correct it's just to validate the PIN afterwards. Removing the chip is quite easy, I have done 6 PIN extractions recently.
Hi Xavier. I have had 0 issue since I let pin 20 grounded all the time. You have the same problem with the 2 ECUs ?
Here's the pinout my tool suggests. It's wired up as it should but no communication with the ECU (both of them). I'm starting to think that they are defective. They don't mention I need the L-line however. Image Unavailable, Please Login Wow that is great.
Yes this is supposed to be a standard ST10 boot, you can leave the boot wire connected. I cannot read both ECU's it is really strange. I think that they are both defective as they are wired up correctly.
EEPROM 512/1024/2048 Byte Checksum calculator 1.01 Loading 'redcar_RHS.bin'...>> Opening 'redcar_RHS.bin' file Read 1024 bytes Only show used checksummed blocks Checksum pages: 64 (1024 bytes) : 0-------------------1-------|----| : 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 0 1 2 3 |4 5 | Block 02: 0101000000000000000000000000[FCFF] .............. .. Desc [0027], New Checksum [FCFF] Block 03: 03026802B80107002004180E0700[7DFE] ..h..... ..... }. Desc [0127], New Checksum [7DFE] Block 04: 0000AA0D530E0000000000000000[E4FE] ....S......... .. Desc [0223], New Checksum [E4FE] Block 05: FFFFDA7FA2B3068A80A46EF28300[B8F7] ..........n... .. Desc [0313], New Checksum [B8F7] Block 25: 0500020500000000000000000000[DBFF] .............. .. Desc [0437], New Checksum [DBFF] Block 26: 1919000000000000000000000000[B4FF] .............. .. Desc [0533], New Checksum [B4FF] Block 27: 1A1A000000000000000000000000[B1FF] .............. .. Desc [0633], New Checksum [B1FF] Block 28: 1B1B000000000000000000000000[AEFF] .............. .. Desc [0733], New Checksum [AEFF] Block 29: 1C1C000000000000000000000000[ABFF] .............. .. Desc [0833], New Checksum [ABFF] Loading 'redcar_LHS.bin'...>> Opening 'redcar_LHS.bin' file Read 1024 bytes Only show used checksummed blocks Checksum pages: 64 (1024 bytes) : 0-------------------1-------|----| : 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 0 1 2 3 |4 5 | Block 02: 0101000000000000000000000000[FCFF] .............. .. Desc [0027], New Checksum [FCFF] Block 03: 03023C028C0100002604AB0E0700[43FE] ..<.....&..... C. Desc [0127], New Checksum [43FE] Block 04: 0000E40D8F0E0000000000000000[6EFE] .............. n. Desc [0223], New Checksum [6EFE] Block 05: FFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFF[09F2] .............. .. Desc [0313], New Checksum [09F2] Block 25: FFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFF[F5F1] .............. .. Desc [0437], New Checksum [F5F1] Block 26: 1919000000000000000000000000[B4FF] .............. .. Desc [0533], New Checksum [B4FF] Block 27: 1A1A000000000000000000000000[B1FF] .............. .. Desc [0633], New Checksum [B1FF] Block 28: 1B1B000000000000000000000000[AEFF] .............. .. Desc [0733], New Checksum [AEFF] Block 29: 1C1C000000000000000000000000[ABFF] .............. .. Desc [0833], New Checksum [ABFF] Here's the tool in action.. You can see the pairing and key information clearly in Blocks 4,5 and 25. I'll upload the source to my github soon !
Yes there is a ground wire connected to the ecu case (bottom right in the image) I'm 100% confident the wiring is right, I can only conclude that the ECU's are fried?
K-Line Serial is the used for communication in both boot (bench only) and non boot (obd upgrade) modes. L-Line isn't used.
Its very very rare that the serial comms fails to operate and on both seems even more of a stretch.. Even when the ecu's fail (e.g. like in the scenario of ticking throttle bodies due to failed internal components) you can still typically connect and pull the eeprom and flash.
If you send them over to AV in UK they can test them for you and verify they are working without much cost involved. I would furthermore recommend deletion entirely of the Immobilizer, too many failure points. Can turn a perfectly good car into a basket case of unreliability. Also removal of cat ecus and thermo's and tonnes of other stuff can be done now too.
I agree completely. Yeah I'll send them over to AV for them to check, remove the immobilizer (hoping that they don't need replacing). I called them today but they haven't called me back. Do they have spare ECU's in stock in case of me needing new ones?
I assume I’m not the only one for whom this isn’t 100% clear?! Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat.com mobile app
Hi 360Trev, we spoke last year about a failed ECU on a 360. I managed to locate one in Poland and succesfully Clone to car and all good. This year the opposite ECU is failing and causing a non start, but by disconnecting the throttle body on that bank the car will start and run albeit very rough. Stuggling to find another ECU now. Did you manage to find a way to write the data into a Fiat ME7 ECU yet? Regards Chris
Take it you need an ecu for a 360? You may already know this, but if it’s for a 430, then an ecu like this out of a contemporary Maserati will work fine in a 430: https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F173882176115 Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat.com mobile app
