Ferrari 360 spider digital clock

Yes it is normal.

No you can not brighten it up (not easily)

 

I do a lot of custom stuff at my shop and if it can be done my techs can do it. What part of the world are you in Nick?

Scott/ la jolla audio

 

Scott
Could you please elaborate as to cost and process

 

I would estimate $125 to $200 parts and labor ...assuming you would be sending the clock.
If you want to bring the car we can handle the r+r and modification in a few hours.. There whould be an addition r+r charge of $55.00.. Let me know what you would like to do.

Scott la jolla audio




The address is 5161 santa fe st san diego ca 92109 ph# is 800-467-6545 m>f 8:30 to 5:30

 

No problem Nick/ talk to you soon!

Scott

 

Nick- Instruments on the 360 work just like the 575M, according to the OM. Push the button on the left for less than 2 seconds until you see the arrow display on the right and adjust with the right hand button until you like it. Works on my clock.

Taz
Terry Phillips
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The clock is not controlled this way (at least in the spider, not sure if the coupe is different).

It seems to me this is the cheapest digital clock I have ever seen.


-Jim

 

Jim, Nick- Sorry. Looked at the OM and you do have a completely different clock. It says the clock is dimmed when the position lights are turned on and it is in a completely different location near the rear view mirror. The instrument clusters are so similar between the 575M and 360, I thought the clocks would be the same.

Taz
Terry Phillips

 

Yes, it' pretty poor, kinda' reminds me of some 80's Fiat effort!

 

You may want to find out who the manufacturer is and see if they have an updated one that may be a drop in replacement.

Another option might be to find a replacement from another manufacturer.

You might be able to make something like this work. $5.99
http://www.jcwhitney.com/jcwhitney/product.jcw?nval=1101002620&statenval=1101002620&productId=2017578&shopid=100001&pageid=12&TID=8014524F&utm_source=Google_Product_Search&utm_medium=CSE&utm_content=product-27710G&zmam=73771597&zmas=18&zmac=129&zmap=27710G


-Jim
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With the intensity all the way up, and the roof up mine's not too bad.

The "problem" (IMHO) is that with the top down there's just too much ambient light which renders the thing completely useless.... Fortunately, I have a datalogger mounted just ahead of the shifter which I use in "drive" mode to display the time...... [Not an inexpensive way to get a working clock though! ]

Cheers,
Ian

 

My clock was replaced at the dealer for becoming dim and actually cutting out, no lights!
After the clock was replaced with a new unit, the clock no longer cuts out, but begins to lose backlight brightness within 10-15 mins. As the other guys have stated above, the clock only has two backlight brightness states, —it is brightest without the headlights, and dims with headlights ON. The dashlight dimmer controls don't effect the the brightness of the clock. However, the backlight on the clock intensity goes down independently of headlight, as if the headlights are ON, which makes it very hard to see in sunlight, and worse with sunglasses. ...and that is where the problem is for me.

Haha!! Who needs this clock? That's why they sell such large diameter Panerai watches!!!

I have a three theories on why the clock display dims:
1) Clock IC heats up from the heat of the lamp and reduces drive to the display segments.
2) The heat from the lamp is heating up the display by itself thereby reducing intensity.
3) Combo of the heatsource effecting IC and display

Here is a fix that pops into my head to combat this heat issue, if it exists.
Locate a hi temp rated 180degF (above temp of lamp surface?), clear plastic sheet, 0.5 to 1.0mm thick . Cut the plastic sheet to fit, you want to figure out a way to bisect the area in front of the lamp and the display. This plastic forms a heat-shield keeping heat away from the display enough to minimize the problem. Be creative on how to keep heat away from the electronics.

Digressing: I remember seeing the inside of the clock, it is an old school design. PCB is mounted inside bottom of a small box. The display is mounted to the front leading edge of the PCB at 90 deg. The lamp is mounted in the back of the box opposite of the LCD and connects thru a bayonet style connector for >easy< replacement. The lamp illuminates the interior if the box as well as shoots the light through to the back of the LCD display. The small lamp, I believe, is the culprit by heating up the entire contents of the box, the PCB and display.

I haven't made time to try my theories and fixes, but I may make time during the T-giving day vacation. let me know if any of you try out my fix.

&#8212;Vic