Ferrari 365 GT4 2+2 - Buyers guide? | FerrariChat

Ferrari 365 GT4 2+2 - Buyers guide?

Discussion in '365 GT4 2+2/400/412' started by Jorgen Andersson, Dec 10, 2008.

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  1. Jorgen Andersson

    Dec 1, 2008
    77
    Hello

    I am in the market for a 365 GT4 2+2 and wonder if you with experince of the model can give me the typical things to look for?
    I plan to look at one this coming weekend.

    I have had two Ferraris, but non with the V12.

    Thanks
    Jorgen
     
  2. Choptop

    Choptop F1 Rookie

    Aug 15, 2004
    4,455
    Carmichael, CA
    Full Name:
    Alan Galbraith
    pick up this months Forza.
     
  3. brettski

    brettski Formula 3

    Feb 29, 2004
    1,754
    north of toronto
    Full Name:
    brett swaykoski
    #3 brettski, Dec 11, 2008
    Last edited: Dec 11, 2008
    very likely the same advice you're already familiar with and it's not a simple answer, but i'll try...upon first viewing the car i would make sure it is complete and to do that keep doing what you are doing here by acquiring as much info as possible via the internet, view as many pictures as possible and, if you can, grab a copy of Bluemel's Original V12. things like glass, original wheels (check for the spare), steering wheels, tools and jack kit can be very expensive to acquire later. i would ask about it's service history and compare that against the amount of KM's the car has covered and against the prescribed service schedule (i'll post it if you need me to). look for a recent valve adjustment (hopefully within 10,000KM's) and evidence of suspension work over it's lifespan. i would look at the condition of the paint and for rust both with the car on the ground and , if possible, from underneath with the car on a lift. from above, pay extra attention to all areas around the trim and glass. from underneath, look for rot on the frame and on exhaust resonator's and silencers. look for oil leaks and their possible sources as well as exhaust leaks and the tell tale black deposits they leave. look at the suspension bushings for rot and deterioration the same goes for the tires...and bumpers...just inspect all rubber.

    if you get to test drive it, it should start easily, unless it has sat for a long time, and once all the carbs come to life it should idle smoothly...but don't be alarmed if that doesn't happen until after it is driven and warm. once warm, feel the exhaust pressure on both sides. unlike a 308, it should be very similar if it is in a decent state of tune and there should be no real colour to the exhaust gases. if the gases when the car is warm are noticibly blue, black or white, you'll likely have some 'servicing' ahead of you...listen carefully to the valve train 1-6, 7-12 to hear the valve train ticking nicely and if the carbs are backfiring once the car is warm then they may need attention. as you drive, listen for creaks and knocks over curbs and bumps that would indicate weak spots in the suspension and as you gain speed listen carefully for wheel bearing 'whistle/howl'. the motor should pull seamlessly with no flat spots in the powerband if the carbs and ignition are in order. when you're off the throttle, the rmp's should drop swiftly and smoothly. the transmission should be smooth as butter through the up and downshifts, despite the heavy clutch which should grab low to mid in the pedal travel. if it's in the final third (the top) of the travel then the clutch could be on it's way 'out'. it is incredibly easy to pull the plugs on this car so if the owner/seller/dealer is agreeable then pull them and read them.

    without knowing what condition of car you are going to see, make sure the condition of the interior is something you are comfortable with. by that i mean, if the interior is terrible don't think that it will be a simple fix at some later point. personally, i would much rather have a car that had good paint/body/interior and needed a major than vice-versa because unless the major is less than 5 years or 10 000KM you'll likely want to do it anyway.

    i'm sure i've missed things and that nothing i've said is 'news' to you but maybe it will trigger other thoughts or raise other questions. good luck, keep us posted. oh ya, make a check list, take it with you and reference it while you are there. bring rags and coveralls so that you can get dirty if you need to. if you can't get the car on a lift then you'll still want to look under the car...even if it is just to decide whether you want to proceed to a comprehensive PPI for a compression test, etc., or not. no need to spend the money if you can rule out the car yourself.
     
  4. bundas

    bundas F1 Veteran
    Owner

    Dec 31, 2005
    7,090
    lexington ky usa
    Full Name:
    mitchell barnes
    i did not know that ferrari made other than V12
     
  5. 348_Spiderman

    348_Spiderman Formula 3

    Feb 16, 2004
    1,416
    Cumming, GA
    Full Name:
    Mike
    4, v6, v8, flat 12, V12, did I miss one? (I probably did!)
     
  6. 348_Spiderman

    348_Spiderman Formula 3

    Feb 16, 2004
    1,416
    Cumming, GA
    Full Name:
    Mike
    Okay there is more:

    I2 (1955 Lampredi 2493cc prototype), I4, I6, V6, V8, V10 (rumored in development???), Flat 12, V12
     
  7. Choptop

    Choptop F1 Rookie

    Aug 15, 2004
    4,455
    Carmichael, CA
    Full Name:
    Alan Galbraith
    also these protoytpes.... W18, W12, I3 2 stroke and the square mated double V6 F135A (picture two V6's facing each other at the pistons, sharing a head on each end)



    you may now return to your regularly scheduled 365 GT4 2+2 discussion.
     
  8. VIZSLA

    VIZSLA Four Time F1 World Champ
    Owner

    Jan 11, 2008
    41,692
    Sarasota
    Full Name:
    David
    For more information see Feb. Forza.
     
  9. Fritz Ficke

    Fritz Ficke Formula 3
    Rossa Subscribed

    Jan 3, 2006
    2,266
    Tucson, AZ.
    Full Name:
    Fritz Ficke
    I think this was a joke that missed it's mark, to bad we could not have seen the tounge in his cheek, Mr. Barnes knows what Ferrari made more than most.
     

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