+1 -- that would be a bad sign for cam lobe wear if they don't agree well (on different flywheel revolutions).
It is only "kind of hard" to understand if you have never done it yourself or don't understand all the factors at play; you are not taking many factors into account like cam lobe wear, valve clearance, tappet wear, valve seat wear, etc.
The compression values have all shot up, incredible what a small difference makes; and this with the engine just turning with the starter. I wonder if the differences would be even more pronounced when the engine is running.
I've made this simple graph to "pass down" what I am learning. These are the markings on the flywheel as if one was looking at it from the front TO the rear of the car. The moment of "revelation" was when Rifledriver noticed that my cam marks were nearly spot on; which invariably means it has not been timed correctly, or better said, not timed AT ALL Again, the marks on the cam are merely "initial assembly" marks and should not be used for any other purpose other than that; the cams MUST be timed using the marks on the flywheel. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Just to settle a confusion and correct my statement for anyone in the future attempting to do this: Both #12 and #7 can be used for timing the cams, provided that the camshafts are in the overlap phase (not compression).
Another adventure for today: I have done all the cam timing without the 0.5mm clearance, today I will measure the clearance on the 4 valves and have the machine shop make 4 shims so that I have the required clearance. Will be interesting to see how many degrees of timing will yield. The added clearance will result in more advance, as it will allow for the lobe to be rotated further before it makes contact with the valve shim. The added advance will also result in higher compression.
If you haven't used 0.5mm clearance to set the timing, what have you used. And why would you make a special shim? Just put a thicker shim that has zero clearance and rotate the cam to 0.5mm of valve movement. That is where the opening and closing should happen. It is the most accurate way to know where the cam is, no clearance means the number you see are always from actual cam movement. If you have 0.5 clearance you then have to wait for contact and movement to register a position. That is just adding another variable.
I am using my shims that give 0.20mm and 0.30mm valve clearance. The specified valve clearance during the cam timing is 0.5mm. The start of the intake valve "Event", AA16, is determined (ideally with a dial indicator) when the lobe on the camshaft starts to push down on the shim/tappet/valve stem. How far the camshaft needs to turn until it makes contact will (also) depend on how much clearance there is; put in simple terms: more clearance /valve lash, the more the camshaft will need to turn (advance) to initiate the intake valve opening. Sent from my MAR-LX1M using Tapatalk
Perhaps this assists in understanding - GREEN being exaggerated valve clearance, RED no clearance and YELLOW rotation of the camshaft. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Shim removed and having one made out of Teflon so I have 0.50mm clearance. Image Unavailable, Please Login Sent from my MAR-LX1M using Tapatalk
You have obviously never used the Ferrari method. I have, many times. Its very repeatable, accurate and works great. It also eliminates the need for any special tools or knowledge of using them.
Tappet wear or valve set wear cannot possibly cause you an issue. If the cam was worn as suggested it would be obvious and you would have much bigger trouble.
Making and using teflon shims is a really bad idea. As I have stated off line, this needs to be done according to my instructions. Using teflon shims was not one of them. The first time a cam lobe passes over it will be the last time it measured .5mm This is why I no longer have employees. I will not stand over someone to be sure they have not decided yet again to do it their way.
The machinist bet me a beer it would read consistent 0.50mm for at least 10 full revolutions. Teflon is used in many industrial applications as bearing carriers, as well as in suspension bushings to very exact tolerances. Sent from my MAR-LX1M using Tapatalk
Teflon is soft, not sure how it will retain its flat shape in the cam follower. If your machinist looses his bet, discard the beer and take his comparator. You could then give @Ferrari Tech method a try... Measure your current gap (with your regular shims), and check with the comparator for the additional valve lift to reach 0.5mm.
Rifledriver is correct. I haven't used the Ferrari WSM method, I have always used a degree wheel. If I am using the Ferrari / flywheel mark, how do I know the valve is at .05 if you don't use a dial indicator? I don't have my 412 WSM handy to look at it. I am just learning new stuff here, I really like understanding different methods. I agree that the teflon is a bad idea, but I am waiting with my popcorn to hear how it goes.
1. You line up the flywheel at the mark (AA16 for example) where you are checking. 2. You uncouple the cam shaft sprocket from the cam shaft so they no longer turn with each other, 3. You turn the camshaft such that the vavle bucket transitions from "able to rotate" to "unable to rotate" (or vice versa depending on whether the event is opening a valve or closing a valve) 4. You reconnect the cam shaft to the pulley If more explanation is needed, then this WSM method is not for you.
Fastest, easiest way on the old front engine cars. We used to do it every major to correct for chain stretch. But I am done here so help your self. I don't cope well with people who blow off instructions. Its bad enough someone who never heard of overlap had decided his calling is 4 cam Ferrari motors.
Actually..I tested this method on a 456..it does kinda work. It is not ideal..but for poops and giggles..I wasn't that far off..
Will be interesting to see. Teflon is not soft, according to DIN 53456 (load 13,5 Kg for 30 sec) the hardness is between 27 and 32 N/mm2 (3.2KG/mm2). The shims are 33mm in diameter, which gives us a total surface area of 855.3mm2 = so 2500+ KG. Yes, I am aware that the edge of the lobe will not make contact with the entire surface, but the spring force of the valves is that the most 4% of that (100KG). Also consider that the timing is done with the cam lobe "resting" on the shim, where there is no load. Get the popcorn, beer, and Prosecco out.
Done, and I lost the bet. Had consistent 0.5mm clearance with the shims, even after 4-5 rotations. Compression has gone by 5 to 10 psi, reading between 165 and 155 now. Now the initial assembly marks are even closer. Image Unavailable, Please Login Sent from my MAR-LX1M using Tapatalk