What I would do personally is disassemble, inspect for wear, clean, lube, re-assemble. Yes there are detergents in oil but this is a component filled/pressurized by oil, not so much constantly flowing through it at a high volume like the bearings for example. I think the most likely problem with these is sticking due to deposits/non use rather than actual component failure. As for the necessity. If the engine is apart, what would it hurt? Especially DIY when I have all the time in the world.
Agree - that's pretty much exactly what I stated in my first post Totally agree, Jim. Disassembly allows for inspection of broken or damaged parts along with ease of cleaning. I'll add the check valve seat is nothing special at all - it's basically a chamfer with what appears to be a ground finish. Given my estimation of the component hardness, I'm speculating scored bores to be an extremely small probability. Now, a broken spring seems very probable to me
Well, tappets from Superformance are $48 each. What's that in labor hours, 20 minutes? Just not worth rebuilding and not being sure of what you have. Dave, you should buy a tappet from Superfromance and see what it is. I'd do it but I can't afford it.
@ $48 x 40 = $1920, I'll rebuild I might do that. I'll start by asking them if these are aftermarket or rebuilt OEM. They are often a but vague with the parts they offer.
What's the problem with after market? Ferrari didn't make the OEM ones. You can be sure the Superfromance ones aren't OEM because new OEM are not available. Only rebuild or used OEMs around, and I'm not sure Ferrari is supplying rebuilt ones anymore. Even Maranello Classic doesn't list them.
Read the thread and found the debate interesting, as usual. Dave, all I can say is thanks for continuing to develop tools/products for these cars. I appreciate the time and effort you put into it!
When did I say I thought it was a problem? I must certainly do not think there is any problem Of course not - remember John, I worked in the world's largest engine plant Typically, the OEM's only produce the following components: - Blocks - heads - Cranks - Cams - Pistons (at least machining of) - Rods
OK, this is what we needed I had discussed this over the phone with John prior and I believe my assumptions are correct... When the cam is at base circle, the engine oil pressure opens the check valve of the lifter allowing motion, hence float to allow the valve to fully close and compensate for temperature dimensional changes as well as manufacturing tolerances. When the cam starts to push down on the lifter, the engine oil flow is cut off, the check valve closes and the lifter essentially becomes solid. That said, it seems apparent to me that inspection of the components for damage, checking the springs and cleaning is all that is needed for a rebuild. Thoughts? Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
John, so, in your test example here (correct me if I' wrong), it would not do anything as the check valve would be open and the piston (plunger) would move with reasonable force. The piston area BTW is .14 InSq Image Unavailable, Please Login
No. There would actually need to ne a couple of minor additions to the pressure circuit. But as I said, It's just a thought experiment. A DIYer might take apart and clean but he would not have a source for replacement parts. I doubt any manufacture supplies replacement parts for these. The Superformace tappets at $48 are expensive compared to other replacement lifters. FCP wants $12 for a BMW lifter for the 1999 to 2006 engines, $10 for a VW/Audi. Most expensive one I looked at was $25 for a Saab. Just doesn't seem cost effective to rebuild. I think the better challenge is seeing what is similar to the 355 tappet, VW or otherwise. What's important? OD, height, position of the oil groove, plunger diameter and height, spring tensions.
I knew from the start there was a relationship to the oil fill port and the function of these, if not, the hole in the head would be a slot to allow constant oil pressure - I knew the travel of the lifter housing in relation to that fill port was some form of switch. When we spoke on the phone and I stated I filled the unit will oil (just the piston sub assembly) that it would lock solid unless I released the check valve - hence oil pressure opens the check valve. I might have miss understood you or vice versa, but at that time I thought you had suggested I was wrong. That made me question my original thoughts and understanding which in fact were correct I do agree that a test rig, even simple, is a good idea and I will build one. I think testing the opening of the check valve under pressure is all that is needed. Regarding replacement parts - the springs can be purchased very close to the sizes I outlined, maybe not exact, but close. I have a supplier that can make springs too. The check valve ball is no big deal. The piston parts can easily be made. The only challenge would be the housing. That said, it's worth it to me to go through this effort. If a few are found bad, sure, I'd buy a few but I already bought 11 spares so I'm in good shape
Based on other engines that use the same design of tappet, its usually oil sludge or metal particles in the engine oil that clog up the internal process, so in those cases its a simple strip and clean out of the unit, or alternatively it is wear in the plunger preventing them going solid, hence the rattle. Given that replacements for most cars are cheap no one bothers fixing them anymore. If you cannot find an exact match replacement for the 355 then maybe the aftermarket main stream replacement tappets for other engines may yield donor components within their make up that could be used to refurbish the originals. Are the originals made by INA? it will be stamped on them if they are. The risk with re use is always building up an engine to then find one of the buggers still rattles, working out which one it is, then having to pull the head apart yet again to replace it. The other alternative is going to a solid lifter and adjustment shims which race versions of production engines tend to do. Not sure why you guys are trying to re invent the wheel regarding the dismantle process, when a good solid tap on a chunk of wood typically does the job with no damage.
No INA stamping anywhere to be found. Also interesting - the very top (part the cam lobe touches) is welded on - you can see the weld on the inside. Also, the oil port hole is drilled, but it must be drilled from the top prior to weld as the hole axis does not exit the side where the notch is at the same angle (probably not explaining that well - essentially, you could never push a pin the size of the hole diameter down that hole from the outside) The main housing does not look cast, but it's not machined either (yes, it's machined after). Perhaps some type of forging... I'll have Randy take some photos through our microscope and post next week.
The ones I have a working knowledge of are from the YB 4 cylinder Ford Cosworth engine which use the standard VW fitment INA lifter which are always stamped by them. Aftermarket non INA stamped ones are available but we tend to stay with INA and pay a bit more. The 355 ones do look very similar in design to the VW type but typically I have thrown all my old ones out and don't have any new ones here to measure and compare. edit Just had a trawl through an INA online catalogue, they list plenty for Fiats and the Cosworth ones but nothing at all for Ferrari, so it looks as if that is a dead end for alternatives, they must be a bespoke 355 part unless Ferrari made a non disclosure, supply only via Ferrari pact with the manufacturers, in which case it will be a case of dust off the verniers and find a local friendly aftermarket suppliers and work your way through the shelves! further edit Here are some dims for the cosworth version http://www.motor-doctor.co.uk/products/2384030-rocker-tappet a trawl through that online catalogue may help match up to the 355 type with another vehicle This is the same tappet as the cosworth but listed for the VW application. £6 for these as opposed to £20 for the cosworth labelled ones above! even though they are exactly the same http://www.motor-doctor.co.uk/products/2384012-rocker-tappet
This is probably the VW one Ferrari uses. At $4.89 the price sounds about ring for something Ferrari would charge about $100 for. https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/audi-volvo-volkswagen-engine-camshaft-follower-034109309ad (Just kidding. I have no idea if this is similar to the 355 tappet.)
Well, for $5 a pop someone could buy some and send them to Dave to disassemble and compare. I had one bad lifter during my major and bought one from GT in AZ. I did look at that VW version and laughed....not worth the "test".
I know you are kidding but looking at the photo, it's clear this is not the same - the geometry is different.
Going to try find and fire up my old hard drive, had it listed with pics I believe the one that fit was a 4 cyl possibly diesel and had a slightly thicker wall and weighed a gram or 2 more. There was also one that was lighter. They are an odd size if you search by the OD you may find it. Its rainign like a beotch here and all my stuff is outside so I no looky today
Slightly off topic, but I do recall cosworth used an uprated design for the 4x4 version of the YB engine, although dimensionally the same as the earlier model it had a revised oil reservoir. This may be the reason for the difference in part number to the VW type, but they can used.
Well, about a year ago, I tried to disassemble these with vacuum but I did not have the proper size suction cup or tool. That said, I'm going to sketch up a quick vacuum gripper and give that a try first as it would be pretty easy to make
^^ Good idea. I was thinking the same yesterday when I was using a Mityvac on my 993. If the piston is too small to pull out with a vacuum cup directly, would a vacuum applied to the outer body draw the piston out?