Ferrari testarossa ignition ? Or tuning issue ?

thank you leslie,
so as I see it is only an exhaust gas analyser what count the air fuel ratio out of the emissions? but if you may have a missfire or aa injector is not ok 100 % then the counting is also not ok.
the real air fuel ratio you only can meassure when you count the inlet air and the fuel what you need, and this is not possible with an exhaust gas analyser.
best would be to adjust the mixture so, that the HC is at minimum, nevertheless what the CO shows. this is my experinece and I was always going fine with this, not only with a F, also with other cars

 

I could be a bad fuel distributor. when mine failed it was very rich. the affected cylinders would not run and the raw fuel was burnt in the exhaust and created lots of white smoke.

 

you are sure that it is white smoke? white is always water but you once have written water is ok
so I think it is more light blue instead of white, and this is oil. what kind of engine oil you use? if fully synthetic than may be it will be to fluid - only my thinking

 

if you put your face into the smoke and your eyes start watering immediately then its a fuel issue. Make sure your catalytic converters honeycombs are not melted too. It happens often and the car gets adjusted to compensate.

They best way to test the fuel system is to pull the fuel injectors and run a flow test. The procedure is in the manual. It takes some time to set it up, but its an easy task.

It could be bad spark plugs. Pull the plugs and see if any are really nasty.

It could be the E part of the KE Jetronic too. You could try pulling the throttle position sensor on the side of the right throttle intake, them using a jumper wire, jump the 18-2 connections in the plug. This disables the E part and you can isolate that out of the equation if the problem persists.

 

oil viscosity is ok as long as you will not use 0 W xx or 5 W xx
how does it smell?
put a little coolant fluid on a hot exhaust and smell the burned coolant. if your white smoke smells the same then you know it is coolant water.
try the same with the oil

so it does not matter if the engine is cold, warm or really warm? "white" smoke always when you start again? and also after about 10 minutes the smoke is gone when you drive or also when the engine only idles?
check the compression.
what does the exhaust gas analyzer says with HC when there is the "white" smoke? and what when the smoke is gone?

 

Like James states, testing your flow rates is an easy task. This should take less than a few hours and will surely tell you if you are getting the proper fuel. The values are all in the WSM for idle, partial load and full load.

Read this ongoing thread

https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/bosch-ke-factory-settings.574507/

You stated earlier things were delayed as your mechanic was looking for a CO2 monitoring tool for tuning, there are many things you can test without a gas analyzer. You've confirmed you have a "rich" bank and that can be confirmed as James states.

What other tests have you performed?

 

I see in the parts diagram that the caps have different parts numbers, but I think they are changeable?
if not, where is the difference?

 

Why can you clean that distributor up?
I bet it has a layer of oxidation on it that kills the conductivity....


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THAT is truly Old School!

Great stuff!

Cheers,
Vincenzo

 

Couple points to ponder, as I learned a lot doing my major a year ago...

1) If your distributor looks like that, I also suspect that your ignition wires are shot. Mine were rock hard the last couple inches before the distributor. There was no continuity when checked. Find my other threads, you can make your own ignition wires and they work great. You need a very specific wire though, and only one company makes it...
2) Ignition cap is ungodly expensive. Get a brass brush and clean yours off. I used a dremel with a brass tip. Brian Crall mentioned in the past he has cleaned these successfully too.
3) White smoke on start up can be water in the exhaust system. Mine shows no smoke when starting, then you get white smoke as water gets evaporated off, then it clears. Grey smoke is oil...

On my car at least, cleaning the distributor and changing the spark plugs/wires made a huge difference in how sooth it ran. The wires were in bad shape, and the car only has 15k miles or so...

Bo

 

The only difference between the stock TR distributor caps is the added labels for the wires - 1 thru 6 on one, and 7 thru 12 on the other (so they are usable on either bank). The reproduction cap is supplied without the labels.

 

what about the compression?
you have an endoscope to look into the cylinder?
my experience from other cars says a broken or burned valve? but hopefully not as bad !

you can unplug the wire from the 9th cyinder, connect it to a sparkplug, hold this on ground and see if there is a spark. if not then you know where to look

 

The out side of the injector is not important. The inside spray pattern is.

 

the oil in cyl. 9 is because not right burning. when you put in spark plug without gap between the electrodes and you will run the engine after short time the sparkplug also is oily. only question is what comes first: no ignition or oil?
if only 9th cylinder not firing it is no problem of the coil. when I see your distirbutor cap I think that could be a reason.
but please check compression first before thinking too much