FF Battery and Terminal melting

Hey everyone,
I am in the process of changing my battery. I am still battling with removal but I’m getting there. Main Question I have is, am I looking at a problem with my main connection to the positive terminal? It’s the main cable to connects. I removed it off that central box and my battery both have corrosion and something looks weird. The battery has the melted circle like it got super hot and under the box it looks like corrosion and melting. I would love some insight here. Thanks!
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You’re correct that something is not right. However, I can’t offer any suggestions as to what is causing the problem as the ‘hot’ point seems to be in an unusual location and I’m no electrical expert so please treat the following as uneducated conjecture…

I don’t think it would be caused by an internal fault in the battery as sealed lead acid and AGM technology is very stable. If your corroded wires are at the point where the plastic melted then presumably the corrosion has caused the resistance of the wire to rise leading to more current draw through the remaining wire which generates excessive heat…

 

Resistance rising would decrease the current consumption though...

 

Ah ok! Scratch that theory then!

 

I am thinking of replacing this part myself. I found the battery ECU on scuderia parts for $100. I have replaced the battery with a new Interstate MTX-49 H8. Perhaps it was the bad battery leading the corrosion?
Perhaps it was the trickle charger that wasn't doing it's job correctly.
On top of my new battery I purchased a CTEK MXS 5.0
I emailed CTEK to see if I have to use the Car setting or the AGM setting

I just dont want to leave the ECU like this in case it continues to stay hot and melt my new battery or cause a fire or issues elsewhere.

Thoughts on this issue??

New battery will cure the problem?

New ECU recommended. Then if I do change this, do I have to worry about resetting the car's computer? Or just do the typical car reset with the locks and windows?

Input wanted

 

Corrosion of an electrical connector generally leads to increased resistance, resistance generates heat, this is fundamentally how fuses work. Yes there is a current loss, but the cranking amps are high, and you may notice that the cranking is slower but the engine still starts, so a problem is not evident straight away.

Corrosion of the connector should not be occurring and is leading to a poor connection which is generating heat. But moisture, water and other nasty elements get exposed to the connection and well here you are. Once corrosion starts it accelerates itself, you can clean the connector, if it’s too damaged it may be best to replace although there are pastes that stop or prevent corrosion sometimes it’s too late.

The battery casing maybe nearly compromised as well, acid leaking or hydrogen gas leaking is a problem it the casing has a hole in it, can’t tell from the photo if it’s just a cover that has the melted circle on it.

If you are changing the battery because of starting issues then the root cause is likely to be the corrosion…

 

Resistance in a line that should have none dissipates power at the point of resistance. You can have 1,000 amps run through a wire but if it has zero resistance than no power and no heat in the wire. Add a little resistance and it will consume power and you get heat.

Its hard to tell from the picture but not a bad idea to chuck that corroded part for the $100 replacement. There may likely be something else going on though.