Filler hose replacement 1981 GTSi

This has been done before and I got a word document from a fellow F-chatter Carlrose with pictures and it was step by step, but did not match my 1981 308 GTSi in several minor and major points. I hope that you will find these steps and tips helpful.

First can you do this? I am 61 (nearly 62) have emphysema (not on oxygen) and have 3 areas of my brain damaged (that explains why I try these things). So I would say yes.

Second assemble all your tools and parts:
22mm 6 point socket for wheel bolts
Torque wrench 72~80 foot pounds when remounting the wheel
10mm socket
8mm socket
6mm socket
Flat blade screwdrivers, long and short

4 inch hose (I got mine from fellow F-chatter Don_xvi)
2 suitable hose clamps

Use jack stand diagram found on this forum and/or instructions on putting the 308 on stands.

Tip: make sure that your 308 is soundly on the stands (I use a lift and I had used blocks of wood between the pads of the lift – to protect the frame). Even in my frail condition the force required to remove wheel well shifted my 308 on the lift causing 1 of the blocks to fall. This force was small compared to force to put the hose on the tank.

Remove the wheel

To remove the wheel well:
Remove the 8 10mm screws, 2 at the front, 4 at the top 2 at the rear
Tip:
Rotate the well toward the rear until it clears the lip at the front of the well.
Rotate the well toward the front so it will clear the disk
This took me 3 hours.

Remove the 10mm bolt that holds the ductwork for the oil cooler.
Move the ductwork by pulling it toward the oil cooler off the air intake; let it hang out of the way.

Loosen the clamps on the hose.
My 308 had hose clamps made in France and did not have a hex heads and 1 had to be loosened with me in trunk with a long flat blade screwdriver between the electric’s, the second was reachable from inside the fender.

The overflow/breather hose is loosened either with the flat blade screwdriver or a 6mm driver.
Slide the hose off and maneuver it so that it is BELOW the body overflow hose.
Remove the 2 10mm locknuts that holds the filler tube solid and prevents it from turning with a 10mm driver.
The first can easily be seen, the big wiring bundle hides the second.
Use a piece of twin to hold the smaller wire bundle out of the way of your hand as you twist and work the filler hose.

I choose to cut the old hose off. Be careful, as the filler tube and tank are aluminum.
Tip: use a sharp adjustable box cutter set ½ the thickness of the hose. Make a vertical incision the length of the filler hose. Being careful extend the blade to the thickness of the hose and in the same vertical incision where there is NOT metal cut the hose through.
Using the flat blade of a screwdriver pry the hole bigger (NOT VERTICALLY BUT SIDE TO SIDE SO TO PROTECT THE FILLER TUBE AND THE TANK). Once the hole is large enough put your thumbs in the hole and you will be able to peel the hose off the filler tube and the tank.

You are about a third done.

Push the filler tube up until the overflow tube is making contact with the rubber surrounding the filler tube. Put the filler hose on the tank (only about a third will go on.
Using your thumbs FORCE the hose into the gap between the filler tube and the tank.
Rotate the hose back and forth, working it on the tank. When you think it won’t go and then it does, pull it down on the tank until it will go no further. You will be able slip the filler tube just into the hose.

You are about 2 thirds done.

At this point while rotating the hose work the filler tube into the hose; aligning the bolts with the holes in the bracket. Put the 2 10mm locknuts on the bolts with the 10mm driver. Tip: Put a piece of paper towel in the bottom of the 10mm driver to hold the lock nut at the top of the socket.

Put the hose clamps on the filler hose making sure are on neck of the gas tank below the expanded ring and above the expanded ring on the filler tube. I installed the clamps with the adjuster positioned on the wheel well side. Note: if they are not tight enough you will have to remove the wheel well again if you do it this way. I filled the tank with a 5-gallon gas can to the point the overflow/breather hose connection and the new filler hose was tested. .

Remove the twine.

Replace the oil cooler ductwork on the intake, making sure that it is pressing against the intake as the 10mm bolt is secured.

Replace the wheel well.

Tip:
Put the well clearing the disk, by having it rotated toward the front.
Rotate the well toward the rear until it clears the lip.
Rotate the well toward the front, at the same time pushing up (this will be hard to do if you are using jack stands).

Fit all the 10mm bolts loose until all are started, then tighten by working way from the center out.

Replace the wheel, torqueing to 75 pounds. Remember to retorque after 50 miles.
.


Hope this helps
stephen
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