Finally got my picture taken(F1 problem)

Helps to let everyone know your model / year [ 1999 360 ]

If you ran the reservoir low you likely burnt up the F1 pump. Or maybe it burnt up anyway, they are prone to fail on a 360. I would start there.

If you feel strange throwing $800 parts at a problem, I would recommend a trusted Indi or Dealer service dept.

Changing the pump with Yuris method will allow you to do so without re-priming the F1 system. He has a great DIY and video. Please search.

Ricambi has them for $800 : http://www.ricambiamerica.com/parts_catalogs.php?M=FE&P=&V=diag&I=587

 

There is no shortcut. Take it to somebody with the correct equipment to diagnose it. As a complete stab in the dark guess, you could find;
1. Clutch closed over PIS-cause-clutch wear.
2. Clutch closed over PIS-sticking release bearing.
3. Worn pump-low system pressure.
4. Clutch sensor fault.
5. Implausible gear select position sensor output.

I would strongly advise you don't drive it again until it has been properly checked. I've had to replace actuators and repair gearbox internals due to both ham-fisted repairs and driving with a sticking release bearing...

 

Maybe I'm wrong, but if I remember properly from past research on this car with a F1 transmission, if a car shows that the clutch is ~70% worn, and it pops into neutral often, it is most likely a sign of a worn out clutch. Am I mixing things up?

 

Depends on the software. On the early tcu they can start to go into neutral randomly at 70% upwards. Some can run to 100% or even over that before it occurs. If it was clutch I would be suprised, usually engine shutdown by f1 is caused by something more sinister than simple clutch wear...

 

I've got a 2004 F360 F1. When I PPIed the car, I had no problems and there were no codes. Now when it heats up it starts to select N on shifts (up or down). The PPI (a few weeks ago) showed lots of clutch left.

Car is at the shop now. To me it's as if the engine compartment and components heat up and the pump can't keep up. It will pop into N and then shift fine for a few minutes.

Fluid level is not the problem, thou the manual tells you to check it when cold, so I could be down when it's warm. I'd think that the ATF would either expand to stay constant volume in heat.

I watched Yuri's video on the F1 pump motor replacement. Very simple! He also has access to a heat sink for the 360 F1 pump.

I noticed that the 430 pump is larger and the relay is 70amp. So maybe Italy figured it needed more beef.

Anyone know what a 458 has for pump and relay?

 

Unfortunately, shutting down is one of the symptoms of a sticking bearing, and it usually only occurs once hot, whereupon it will fail to restart; it does so to prevent you from driving it and damaging the gearbox internals. They modified the seals in the cylinder to stop this in later cars.If you have a weak pump, and therefore insufficient pressure, it is also possible the slave is not physically moving enough to complete the clutch operation, and the gearbox tcu will shut down the engine. Other causes of pressure issues include the 3 bleed screws becoming loose on the base of the actuator. To check them you need to strip off the actuator and you will need an sd2 to bleed the system.

Being as you live do far from a dealer maybe you should try a pump. If you don't fancy being Rodgered by dealer prices, the pump is identical to the 156 Alfa selespeed unit, which can be found very cheaply. If this doesn't cure it don't drive it, it can get really, really expensive. As I said in my first post, I would personally get it to someone with diagnostic gear who knows the system.....

 

If your fluid level was that low the pump would cavatate & introduce air in the system. From that point on you would have numerous problems with clutch & gear actuation.

The fluid level will rise (expand) as the system heats up. If you check the level when cold it should be at the lower end of the stick (cap). If you add more it will drain overboard (looks like a leak from the F1 pump in the engine compartment) when the fluid heats up.

The system should not need to be “topped off”. If your losing fluid you have a leak in the system.

If your F1 actuator pack is leaking that could give you gear selection problems (along with $$$$ to replace)

 

Note that the F430 also has an E-Diff that is powered by the same pump, so it needed to be larger for that as well. That is also why the 6 speed F430s still have a F1 pump.

 

But the early 430's came with the 360 pump. They were upgraded on '06 model year as they were burning out. I've also retro-fitted the later 430 pump to the 360 and had no failures of this unit...

 

No problem with too much pressure by using the larger 430 pump? I assume there is an over pressure valve and the 360 and 430 have the same settings on this?

 

I just replaced the clutch (1999 F1) and put in the new design Hill Engineering T/O bearing. When side by side you can clearly see the difference.

 

The pump pressure is the same. The early pump was really quite inneficient, the later design is to cope with longer duty cycles that are needed to feed the e-diff as well as the f1. There is a preset pressure control located in the body of the f1 valve block, but that is best left well alone!

 

Just got my F360 back frm shop. My problem with shifting seems to have been related to the PIS. No problems in 200 miles.

 

What is a PIS? I'm learning here.

 

Clutch clearance setting. Set using an SD2 or SD3 computer (Ferrari shop computer - $$$).

 

hahahaha, I see a lot of $$$$ here!
Thanks though.