Finally planning a real purchase - advice to begin research?

2tall4economy describes me also. How tall are you?

 

I know several members here have purchased F cars without driving them, but at your height I would say a test drive is mandatory to make sure you not only can sit in the car, but actually drive it comfortably and safely too.

I "sat" in a 328 in 2000 at a dealership with the money in my pocket to buy it, but when I test drive it I realized the car was too small for my 6'4"/200 frame. I "fit" in the car, but I also "fit" in a Cessna 152, but can't fly one with supreme confidence.

There is also the feel of how the car "feels" for you to consider. You can't get that without driving it.

No drive, no buy for me.

There are a lot of consignment cars at dealers. The owner has instructed them to not allow any test drives. Keep looking, find a way to prove you are a serious buyer and drive a few.
Alden

 

I think you should buy an 1988 twin-turbo TR.

 

I wouldn't say that. From surveys and extrapolated data, we have TR's that have exceeded 100k miles. A well sorted one is actually pretty reliable with nothing left to go wrong that you would not expect on any other car or simple enough to fix yourself. Don't discount the TR and don't be deterred by your height requirement. Michael Jordon owned one albeit a little modified.
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If you buy a 360 or later car please bear in mind that with an F1, any problems will require a SD or Leonardo scanner for diagnosis. So whatever you get.. it won't be a Honda or Toyota.

 

On "fit" -- I'm 6'4" and about 200lb. I found that I had trouble with a 308 with the top up, but that was partly due to not being used to the seating.
(The 3x8s have the driving position slightly angled to the vehicle centerline, to bring your feet inboard of the front wheels.)

When I bought my 328, I did test drive it, but I wasn't really comfortable in the car until I shifted position to heel & toe -- then everything just dropped into place.

Anytime I get into a "strange" (to me) car, I'm not really comfortable, so don't reject a car out of hand, just because it seems "tight" on first try.


On service, I've taken a bit of a leap of faith, as I've retired to a place over 200 miles to the nearest dealer. But I've had 16 years of experience with the car, and it's not a "computer" car, so I'm not totally wired to the dealer "special tools".

After a "make it right" service, the car was reliable enough to be a daily driver, but stuff does happen. Any Italian car will require regular service. It's not a Toyota that you drive until it stops.

Any car you buy used will have issues you'll want to deal with. Things the previous owner stopped noticing, but will show up to you.
I used to advise figuring a quarter of the purchase price to make a used Italian car "right". But that was based more on Alfas, although I put about that much into my (then 11 year old) 328.

But I'd say figure where you'll get service (dealer, local general foreign car shop, DIY) before you buy.
Having no idea how to have the car serviced will not improve the ownership experience.

Buying the car is just the first step. Regular service is also part of ownership.
In a pinch, you can have the car taken to the dealer in a truck.

Heck, I got a deal on my Ferrari, because the previous owner managed to have it in the shop all three summers he owned it. He'd probably have asked more if he had it serviced out of season, and not waited until it was "essential", thereby missing "prime" driving weather.

 

Which cost $20,000.
Not a typo. $20K for the diagnostic tool.

So it may make sense to figure out your service options concurrently with your purchasing research.

Good luck and happy hunting!

 

I'm selling one.

 

Not all indie shops are alike. A number of independent shops are owned by former employees at dealerships.
Some are better rated than the dealership.

Check the regional forums for shop suggestions.

Finding a good shop -- even among dealers -- can be "trial and error".
But, thanks to forums like this one, you're not always on your own. You can get the benefit of others' experiences.

 

There are those who won't buy a car unless it's been serviced with a fanatical religious zeal at dealerships. Naturally it's a small portion of the buyer population.

Most buyers buy the car on condition and whether its serviced at a reputable Indy or Dealership doesn't matter. You have problems with the guy down the road that fixes BMW's and "European cars" that's never worked on a Ferrari before but "it's like all other cars right?"

Given the eDiff, F1 transmission and Stability control, etc. etc. To properly figure out what the car thinks is wrong, will require a scanner. As above, if you go to the local region (Northeast?) section of FChat, they'll be able to give you recommendations for a competent shop to fix the car.

My Indy (European Road and Racing) is renowned in the southeast and knows Ferrari's. I've never taken my car to a dealership for a repair and IF I ever sell my car.. if the buyer isn't comfortable with it they're going to buy another car. Given mine is a stick with 61k miles.. they're going to pay for that decision.

 

That's a decision that you'll make in the process.

I decided that I'm not going to sell mine so I didn't care about mileage. Bought my euro with 50k miles at a very nice low price with some issues. I found when I fixed her up and kept driving her, no issues popped up. For the last year it's been drive on weekend and put away on sunday. Repeat.

Assuming a low mileage car won't have as many issues is a dangerous assumption to make. As is the assumption that when you sell it you're going to mitigate the loss in value with a low mileage vehicle. Buy it for you.. not for the value on resale. With either mileage low or high you're buying a car from what's there. Low mileage cars might have the intercooler or water pump blow from lack of fluid changes. High mileage cars might have more worn interiors. There is no "right" answer. What do you need to get the "Ferrari" experience? For me a very low priced sub-perfect example fits the bill nicely. Others need a perfect car with no blemishes. That choice is up to you.

Oh and for either example EXPECT issues along the way.

 

big +1

A member on here once said something about servicing cars at dealerships vs indies.

I cant recall his quote exactly, but loosely.... "one must remember that an individual is working on your car, not the dealership itself. Don't be fooled into thinking the every dealer tech knows more than the indie"

In other words... the dealer service dept is only as good as the people working there.

 

Here are the issues I've had and sorted since I purchased my '87 TR 3 years ago with only 8700 miles on it.

Refurbished Clutch (one friction plate completely worn, plates glazed, Throw Out Bearing shot). Total cost $1,500
-New Kevla friction material
-Ground plates
-New Throw Out bearing
-New Seals

Refurbished Brakes (all but 1 caliper seized). Total cost $1,500
-Cleaned calipers and re-plated
-New Seals
-New Pads
-New fluids

Fuel pumps (leaked during winter hibernation). Total cost $200.
-New Bosch pumps (2x)

Ignition module (intermittent resulting in either one bank only or fully stalled engine). $150
-New, used or aftermarket Module

Personally, I think I'm good for all the above for many years to come. I also don't think I would have seen these issues so prematurely if the car had been driven more often, especially the clutch and brakes.

So the lesson here is, a low mileage vehicle is not always one with less issues. In fact it's safe to say that it's more likely to see these issue come up. I'd find a car that has been driven well and maintained along the way.

 

Your a big boy for a C152.