Hi All, Just got my 83 BaT QV shipped in from CO last night (the non Al Davis one). Drove it around today and had some questions: 1. The idle is high, around 2100. I know there is a cold start mode, but it should drop once it is warmed but, but it never does. I even got stuck in traffic and it was odd that it would idle so high for so long, like 20 minutes in traffic. I was worried it was going to overheat. Both oil and water temperature was starting to go past the middle point. When I got home, shut off the engine and started it again, it idles around 1000. Any ideas? 2. The engine cooler light comes on randomly, mostly off, but some times it would come on, and immediately go off, or stay on for a little bit and go off. I checked the coolant levels, and it is fine. 3. The washer fluid light and lights light is always on. The washer fluid level is fine, and all the external lights I can find are working. 4. The instrument cluster dimmer light doesn't work, I tried the knob, and it doesn't do anything. Bad bulb? How do I replace that? 5. The clock doesn't work either. Is there trick to it? 6. The gas cap release doesn't work from the inside of the car, have to use the engine compartment release. Is there a fix? 7. The truck, and front truck struts are old, and no longer holds either up. Where do I find the parts to replace it? The front truck release like the gas cap also doesn't work, but the manual release works fine. Whew! I think that's all the questions for now. One thing I didn't expect, is that the from inside the car visibility is amazing. By far the best of any car I have ever driven / been in. Thanks FChat in advance. -Kevin
#7 if you are ok with using stuff that doesn't have the horsey on it and associated upcharge. Either measure you existing ones and match up by those specs or I think their make/model finder covers mondial QV's https://www.liftsupportsdepot.com I got all new stuff for my 85 cab from there
1. Disable cold start circuit by jumping the plug under the header tank. 2,3,4,6 welcome to the wonderful world of mondial electronics. Check fuse panel first. 5. Send to Palo Alto speedometer along with check for $400 This was supposed to be a coddled Dave Helms car. BAT partial disclosure shame on the seller. Could be worse though.
The high idle can be either the throttle cable is catching the carpet or it needs lubricating. Also when you press the throttle, linkage on the car can need a bit of oil. Mine was an 87 injection and i assume your is a carb but the principle is the same. Press the throttle a few times and see if it keeps coming back to the stop. The failure of the fuel lid and front bonnets relate to the solenoids, failure, or no volts, or jammed. Spares are available. Fuel one is fun to change. Eurospares have used unit The gas struts are at superperformance
2. The engine cooler light comes on randomly, mostly off, but some times it would come on, and immediately go off, or stay on for a little bit and go off. I checked the coolant levels, and it is fine. 3. The washer fluid light and lights light is always on. The washer fluid level is fine, and all the external lights I can find are working. no biggie - just for context, the 't' doesn't even have these warning lights. - should be relatively fixes and something that won't prevent you from enjoying the car in the meantime. 4. The instrument cluster dimmer light doesn't work, I tried the knob, and it doesn't do anything. Bad bulb? How do I replace that? is it set to highest already? You may want to leave as-is - I find the highest level is even 'dim' Might be cheaper to just buy a new speedometer/odometer - Palo Alto Speedometer are great if you have any other issues. 5. The clock doesn't work either. Is there trick to it? I had to replace mine, just old age - cost me about $200 6. The gas cap release doesn't work from the inside of the car, have to use the engine compartment release. Is there a fix? most likely electrical, check fuse box and wires 7. The truck, and front truck struts are old, and no longer holds either up. Where do I find the parts to replace it? The front truck release like the gas cap also doesn't work, but the manual release works fine. easy fix, generic is $20 and 10 minutes to swap out Part of enjoying these cars is sorting them out after a long hiatus off the road, once sorted (despite naysayers) - they are reliable. Glad you are a good steward for this car, and hopefully will put to stop the cycle of abuse Mondials often have (owner buys, doesn't spend the $$$ to correct, sells, repeat)
#3 Washer fluid sensor will most likely be a failed corroded float sensor, the sensor is NLA - just disconnect the sensor near the bottle and it should go out on the centre console #6 Could be solenoid failure, fuse has blown, switch failure or relay issue. Start by checking the fuse first and working your way back. Use a voltmeter too. To get to the fuel flap solenoid you have to remove some interior panel part(s).
#7 - If you want to keep the original Ferrari struts and badging, you can have them rebuilt. Contact Frank at http://strutwise.tech/ He rebuilt all of mine and they work like new.
Image Unavailable, Please Login Thanks everyone for the responses so far. For the cold start / high idle question. I looked in the engine bay, and looked at some older posts. Is the blue connector the one I should remove? Also saw a random white colored connecter near by that is not connected. Any idea what that is?
Ended up connecting the white plug into the (from page 70 of US owners manual) Fig 57 B Warm up compensation, and now it idles around 800-900. Currently both white plug into Warn up ad control pressure regulator is in and also the blue plug into the F Auxiliary starting assembly. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Also while poking around saw this sticker in the engine compartment about high altitude adjustment. This was a CO car. Says adjustments mentioned in owners manual, but I couldn't find it. Anyone know what that is? What do I need to do to adjust it back for WA state? Image Unavailable, Please Login
Hi All, Thanks for all the suggestions. Report back on the car and plans. 1. With both white and blue plugs plugged in or without the blue plugged in, the car idles great at around 800-1000 RPMs. The usual wait for the cold engine light to go out. 2. Will order some new structs. 3. Is there a DIY trouble shooting on the instrument panel lighting at all? The fuse box is a SRI fuse box. 4. Also is there a DIY trouble shooting on the front truck and gas cap release? 5. Found that front passenger side indicator light is out, and most likely cause of the warning light for lights to come on.
With my gas cap release and trunk release they were just froze up and needed lots of lude and exercise manually until it works on its own. The gas cap one is easily accessible from beneath by taking fender liner out
About the fuse box, it's generally a good idea to replace it with a new remanufactured one because it's the source of many electric gremlins. If you would ever consider a new one, it's a good start to have a look at this page: http://redbaycars.com/remanufactured/ferrari%20parts.html
I had Engine bay and bonnet on manual only. swapped the release buttons over to see if it was the switches or not. Ended up replacing with second hand from EuroSpares. However, I kept the button ‘fronts’ from mine as the replacements’ graphics were worn off. Saved a lot of time chasing wires. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Just for clarity - someone here said he thought this car was a "Helms coddled" car. My car is also an '83 QV (a Cab) and I just received it from Dave. Coddled it was - no problems, no issues; 600 miles driven since receiving the car - ONE quart of oil added! j Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat
The original BaT listing has the paper work from 2 shops in CO, including SRI. ~$16K spent over last 2 years, including a major, fusebox, fuel lines, brakes, etc. Mechanically, and important running gear no issues whatsoever. These items on the list on the thread was not disclosed on BaT, some understandable, probably doesn't drive the car at night, and never thought about instrument cluster lighting. Others might have been oversight once you've had the car for a while and never think about it. The washer light is always on, structs, etc. Having had a couple of 80s GTV6s, doesn't bother me too much. Definitely getting to know the car better poking around trying to fix the small things on this list.
Kevin I’ll see if I can dig out any picks. I think - it was a whole while ago - that they dial surround on the dash unscrewed and then you could pop the buttons out. The fronts clipped on and may have had a dab of glue to watch out for. I’ll have a look later on and get back - there wasn’t too much dismantling as it was an early job when I was far more cautious!!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
The clock I'm totally okay with not replacing, the instrument light I'd rather be able to fix since during winter months it gets dark in Seattle pretty early. Also just really weird, especially since the car is new to me. Aside from sending in entire cluster (checked the fuse instrument cluster and rear lights I think on same fuse, rear lights work), which I probably won't do or at least not for a while. Anything else I should check?
https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/mondial-instruments-how-secured.48258/ This covers the switches - pop off the gauges surround and then you can see switch screws.... may need to loosen Speedo. Hope this helps. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
so for my dimmer switch, it was actually burned out - pretty easy to take the gauge out. I would do that first to see if there are any burn marks on it. It's actually a separate unit (the dimmer peg) so if it is burned out - you could probably find a spare one somewhere and just replace that! One thing you may be able to do is permanently just have it on the highest setting without having to replace it if it is burned out - just involves some rewiring. I've seen it done at Palo Alto Speedometer, give them a call and ask for Hartmut, tell him Paul Chua sent you - he knows all about Mondial dials. Good Luck!
