Hello, I started my timing belt job this morning and I'm having a great time doing it. I really enjoy learning about my Ferrari one system and bolt at a time. I'm at the point in the procedure where I have to detach the 3 lines to the vapor cannister so I can swing the AC compressor over the fuel cell. '87 328 GTS However, I noticed a 4th line that goes between the 2 AC lines. See attached pics. Obviously, this will prevent the swing over. It's my understanding that this is the fuel return line. Is it ok to just detach the flexible hose without doing anything else with the fuel system first? I'll have at the ready many shop towels to catch residual fuel but wondering if I'm missing a step that is necessary before I detach the fuel return line to the fuel cell. Thank you guys for any knowledge you might shed on this. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Somewhere along the line of this job, you will want to remove that fuel return line anyway so just go ahead and do it now. As for the three fuel vent hoses, they look original and old. Cut them off and replace them now while you are in there.
Thank you yelcab, Just to be clear....I can just remove it without any intermediate step involving the fuel system?
There might well be fuel in it. So you might consider cracking the joint further back up towards the injection unit to let some air in & allow it to drain into the tank. Good time to replace all those flexible / braided pipes while you can get to them. Just cut them carefully and be careful of the spiggots on the tank. A world of pain if you damage one!
Thank you Iain. I noticed both of you gentlemen said "cut" the lines off. Is it that high of a risk of damaging the spigots on the top of the fuel cell by attempting a more traditional "wiggle them off" method?
You can try wiggle them off, those vapor line nipples are not flared, but they are also very thin walled and easy to bugger up so go easy and if they don't want to budge cut them off. You're going to replace them anyway.
The fuel return line goes right to the top of the tank. There's nothing keeping the fuel in the line, it should have drained into the tank and the line should be close to dry and certainly not pressurized.
From experience they will be practically welded to the metal & as above the spiggots on the tank are not that strong. Much safer IMO to take a very sharp blade and just start working it along the line of the hose till you get down towards the metal & can split it apart. Just take your time. When installing new rubber or plastic fuel hoses I always put a smear of vaseline/petroleum jelly on the metal first so that you can get them off easily in the future. Same with water hoses except I use silicone grease for those.
I just came up from the garage for some lunch and I thought I'd post an update. All of you gentlemen have been spot on. There was no "wiggle them off" happening. I used a pair of dikes to cut them in the middle, then I used a razor blade to slowly slice vertically until they slipped off. As for the fuel return line, literally 4 drops of gas came out. No problem at all. I have the lower AC bracket off...now to begin the upper bracket after lunch. Also I noticed I have to disconnect two wires to the compressor for the swing over to work. One ground wire that attaches to the back of the dipstick and the hot wire that is just a plastic connector that lays over the front camshaft bank. It's starting to appear that this job is predominantly all the "other stuff" but I don't want to get ahead of myself... Thanks again for all your guidance. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Ditto what Iain said above. There never has been any fuel retained in those lines of my '87 328 GTS. Don't try and twist them off. Slice along the nipple like Iain said. That's the best way.
I tried gently double nutting that stud but it didn't feel like she'd go. I didn't want to go for broke until I inquired whether or nut that stud is even possible to remove?
It should go. it never hurts to hit it with a little heat before putting all your weight on it (heat gun or flame) to prevent snapping anything.
Thanks for your response Spencer. The stud in question is unlabeled in the parts catalogue. Makes me think that it is integral with the cover. If it were a removable stud it would have an arrow pointing to it. (Right?) I'd hate to snap the mother. If it can't be removed I'm thinking the only other way would be to double nut the studs on the top of the compressor itself. 1 of 3 actually did that on its own when i was attempting to loosen the nut on it... Image Unavailable, Please Login
Disclaimer - I'm just putting my 308 QV back together after doing the belts, and am right at the stage where I'm re-mounting the AC compressor. It's a 308 QV, very similar to a 328, and I've got the Sanden AC compressor, different than your York. That said, I had BOTH variations of the front timing belt cover, as I'd bought a spare set. I've sold the front cover, but I took photos of the two together. The stud you're pointing to in the diagram above is fastened in the block, and goes through a smooth hole in the cover. Here's the two covers together - Sanden AC cover on the left, York cover on the right. The part number on the back of each is identical, but obviously they're configured differently depending on the AC compressor used (some bosses are not drilled or tapped on the Sanden version). Image Unavailable, Please Login Closer up of the York cover that matches your configuration: Image Unavailable, Please Login On my QV, the stud you're point to definitely goes through the cover and fastens in the block. Gordon
All the studs have to come off, and do come off. And then, all the studs on top of the AC compressor also have to come off. Fun, hah?
Gordon, Thank you so much for your response! I wish you well in your reassembly. But please forgive me....You are saying that the stud I indicated passes through the smooth bore cover and fastens into the block....therefore it can or cannot be double nutted off from its current position?
Mitchell, I just saw your post. Thank you! I know what I have to do now. I will, one day, hope to return the favor with contributing knowledge here.
I know it's 70 bucks but I have found that over the past few years I have used these guys a lot. Metric stud removal kit
Man! You have a lot of cool toys. Although I think I have a plastic bag labeled something like "Nuts for double-nutting all the stupid cam belt studs", I just may buy the fancy tool. ... you are probably quickly understanding why shops charge over $1k for a timing belt change service yet why it costs only $72 if you do it yourself.
Keeping in mind that there's a rubber belt on the other side of that metal cover, heat with care if you choose this path. Yes, you plan on replacing that belt, but still.....
