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Fix for TR front trunk struts

Discussion in 'Technical Q&A' started by colo348, Feb 3, 2004.

  1. colo348

    colo348 Karting

    Nov 1, 2003
    141
    Colorado
    Full Name:
    Jim
    Hi Group,

    Thank you Steve Magnusson for you link and data on how to fix the trunk struts. Just for the record here is how I fixed them:
    1. Took off the drivers side turn signal unit (drivers side the worst).
    2. Propped the trunk lid to max extension.
    3. Going through the turn signal port I was able to get to the back connection point of the strut, took out the pin.
    4. Turned on head lights and was able to get to the front pins on both sides.
    5. Pass. side went though the battery well to get to the back connection point and removed the pin.
    6. Place the back connection point of the new struts on first, secure with pins (both sides).
    7. If you do not have the trunk lid at full extension you will have problems getting the struts to go over the trunk connection pin.
    8. Swear a bit and your there! The driver's side is tight, but be patient.
    9. Make sure the pins are in and remove your prop and that's it.
    Time to do about 1 1/2 hours, but I'm an expert now.

    Hope this helps someone in the future.
    Good driving and stay in the fast lane.
    Jim
     
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  3. Tifoso1

    Tifoso1 F1 Rookie

    Nov 18, 2003
    2,572
    Pacific NW
    Full Name:
    Anthony C.
    Thank you for the post. I am still a little shy about trying to work the Ferrari on my own, but hopefully I will muster up enough courage to do so. Your write up definitely helps.
     
  4. Tifoso1

    Tifoso1 F1 Rookie

    Nov 18, 2003
    2,572
    Pacific NW
    Full Name:
    Anthony C.
    Okay, how do you remove the turn signal unit? and also, the pins you are referring to, what do they look like exactly? Are they like thin little wires that you can bend around the struts? TIA
     
  5. ferrarifixer

    ferrarifixer F1 Veteran
    BANNED

    Jul 22, 2003
    8,520
    Melbourne
    Full Name:
    Phil Hughes
    Remember to re-install them the correct way up....with the strut main body higher than the internal rod.....or the oil damper internally will not work......SO MANY struts are installed up-side-down on all sorts of cars.

    If you have an up-side-down strut, flip it over and after about 15-20 operations it'll work properly again.

    The bonnet should open quickly, then slow down at the end of it's fully open stroke, to protect the hinges and panels from going over extended. If they're up-side down, they are hard to open initially, then get easier until fully open, when they will be reluctant to stay open.

    Remember also, that struts can be easily re-gassed by mobile services. Many used car sales places use them.

    Two methods used are

    1 To drill and inject more gas, then solder the body back up with an extension tube. This works ok, but shows signs of tampering.

    2 To put the whole strut inside a pressure vessel and re-inflate it, forcing the pressure in past the seals. This also works well, and shows no signs of tampering.

    In most cases, the struts will last for years to come, as the pressure loss is very slow. However if the seals are gone through rust or damage etc, then it's a fit new job.

    Things like Daytona and Boxer struts are hard to source for perfect originality, so re-gassing is perfect for concours prep.
     
  6. colo348

    colo348 Karting

    Nov 1, 2003
    141
    Colorado
    Full Name:
    Jim
    #5 colo348, Feb 9, 2004
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Anthony,
    Here's a picture. Two screws to take out the turn signal, remove the grill (3 screws) and a compression clip, then pull out.

    Replace the new struts the same way the old ones came out (big end to the top or to the bumper). The pins I'm referring to are call "cotter pins" they're split, make sure they are bent to wrap around the pivot post of the strut connection. You'll see what I mean when you see them in your car.

    Good luck,
    Jim
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  8. gabriel

    gabriel Formula 3

    Remember also, that struts can be easily re-gassed by mobile services. Many used car sales places use them.

    Two methods used are

    1 To drill and inject more gas, then solder the body back up with an extension tube. This works ok, but shows signs of tampering.

    2 To put the whole strut inside a pressure vessel and re-inflate it, forcing the pressure in past the seals. This also works well, and shows no signs of tampering.

    In most cases, the struts will last for years to come, as the pressure loss is very slow. However if the seals are gone through rust or damage etc, then it's a fit new job.

    Things like Daytona and Boxer struts are hard to source for perfect originality, so re-gassing is perfect for concours prep.[/QUOTE]



    I'm going to go out on a limb here and say that the Melbourne that you hail from is in Austraila. :) Don't laugh, theres a city with the same name 90 miles north of me, here in Florida. I've never heard of such a service here in the US. Anyone else here ever heard of this?
     
  9. ferrarifixer

    ferrarifixer F1 Veteran
    BANNED

    Jul 22, 2003
    8,520
    Melbourne
    Full Name:
    Phil Hughes
    Just go to the biggest used car sales outlet near you. They'll use them for sure.
     
  10. Tifoso1

    Tifoso1 F1 Rookie

    Nov 18, 2003
    2,572
    Pacific NW
    Full Name:
    Anthony C.
    First of all, many thanks to all that had touched on this topic. The good news is, I did find the panel on the driver side which can be removed and allow access to the driver side strut. It is at the same place where the battery is located at on the passenger side. You just need to be courages and pull the carpet back a little more to reveal the four 10mm screws.

    Anyway, this is what I have encountered so far. I went down to the local auto parts stores (NAPA/Schuck's/B&B) and no one has been able to cross reference the parts number off the ones on the OEM struts. I even called the US distributor of Stabilus, they are unable to cross reference them either. However, they were able to tell me that the OEM struts are 10" in length and are made to hold 330N (74lbs) of wt. each. As it turns out, NAPA has a pair of struts that holds 80lbs of wt. and I figure that I am in good shape as the many TR owners know that the OEM struts are prone to failure. Now here is the deal, the NAPA struts fits over the connection point a bit loose. The pin will hold the strut in place but they are not a perfect fit as the OEM struts. My questions are as follows: 1) Do most TR owners replace them with OEM struts? and 2) The struts should work even know it is not a prefect fit, is this something I should worry about? and 3) If you did not replace them with OEM struts, can you recall what the brand and part numbers are? (As I have lost the e-mail that Robert (88Blktr) had send to me as I had to re-format my computer thanks to a comuter virus. Anyway, any help on this topic would be greatly appreciated.
     

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