Fixed My Windows!!!

My Mondial T had the typical balky door windows. They would start out OK, get about half way up, and then make this nasty little noise, "grrrrrr", as the upward velocity slowed to a crawl. Sometimes they would not even go all the way up without "help." UGGGH!

Now they zip right up with no help. What did I do? $100 window "Accelerators?" No. I bought new u-channel lining from GT CAR Parts for about $25. That was enough to do both doors and I still have enough left to do one more.

Removal:
Remove all the door panels.
Remove the vapor shield.
Remove the triangular piece of rubber, the "Cap", at the top of the front guide by sliding them towards the rear of the car. One of mine required a lot of firm but not abusive yanking, working it up and down at the back to loosen it in its track before it would slide out. The other one just slid right out.
Remove the glass. To do this easily roll it up about 6 inches. Remove the two bolts and nuts that secure the glass inside it's pinch holder, then remove the two bolts that secure the pinch holder to the lifter. The glass will then lift right out of the door.
Remove the rear guide - one screw at the top and one bolt at the bottom. Don't lose the rubber u-block, a little over an inch long, that goes at the top of the guide on top of the u-channel rubber.
Yank the old rubber out of the rear guide.
Yank the old rubber out of the front guide by starting at the top. It's a bit resistant to getting started, but once it does, it's really easy.

Installation:
Using the old pieces as templates, cut your new material to length. 3 of the cuts are at a 90 degree angle, but the cut at the top of the front guide's piece is angled about 25 degrees off perpendicular. It's not critical, but it looks neater if you get it close.
Using Worth Black Weather Stripping Glue, or anything else that is similar, run a strip of glue down the length of the rear guide and insert the rubber, lining the top up with the "shadow" of the old piece. I only put glue in the "bottom" of the guide - I don't think you need to bother with the "sides". I then used the back edge of the glass as a tamper to make sure that the rubber was properly seated from top to bottom. I put another dab of glue in at the top and pressed the little rubber block in making a small effort to line up the slot with the slot in the rubber u-channel.
Run a bead of glue the length of the front guide. I left a gap in the bead where the guide enters the door as its a bit tricky and I don't think it matters.
Start at the top and line the rubber up so that its angled cut will just butt against the Cap. Push the rest into place. I used the fat end of a wooden chopstick to tamp the rubber into place and make sure that it was properly seated in the guide from top to bottom.
Reinstall the rear guide, but leave the screw and bolt a bit loose for now.
Slide the window glass back into the door.
Bolt the pinch bar back to the lifter but leave 'em loose.
Bolt the pinch bar to the glass and tighten.
Put a bit of cement on the metal that the Cap slides over and press it into place.
Go away for an hour to let the Cap's glue set.

Adjustment.
This is a tricky procedure, and I would be very surprised if what worked for me would work on all other cars. You just have to experiment until it works well. If the window will go up with only a little slow down when the engine is off, you have a good adjustment.
Here's what I did:
Loosened the bolt at the top of the lifter.
Loosened the two bolts at the bottom of the lifter. Not the two that secure the mounting bar to the door, but the two that allow the bottom of the lifter to move "in and out", i.e. to the inside of the door and towards the outside of the door.
Pushed the rear guide up and the top of it out, and tightened the screw and the bolt while holding it in place.
Lifted the glass and moved it around where the pinch bar mounts to the lifter. When it seemed "centered" and as though the front of the glass was parallel with the front guide I tightened the two bolts. I left the up movement stop bar at the bottom of it's travel, so that the window could go up as far as possible. Pushed the top of the lifter forward to seat the front of the glass squarely in the front guide's channel, and tighten it. You should not have to move it very far - if you do, re-position the pinch bar so that you don't.
Now run the glass up and down a bit while watching the bottom of the lifter mounting. It will move in and out as the glass goes up and down. You want to find a position that will be a good compromise. You want this mostly towards the inside since in at the bottom means out at the top. If you go too far out at the bottom the top will be pushed in and bind on the guides and the weather stripping. When you decide, move the glass to the up and down position that corresponds to the in and out position you've decided upon, hold the lifter in the correct position and tighten the bolts. This will probably take a couple of tries as that sucker wants to move when you tighten the bolts.
The two bolts that secure the mounting bar to the door are bolted through slots that look like they are there for adjustment, but that is not true. The slots are there to accommodate manufacturing variances. The lifter tube is solid metal, and that will determine the position of the bottom of the lifter relative to those slots.
Make sure that all the bolts are tight.
Use DeOxit5 to treat all the electrical connections, and re-assemble the rest of the door.

The second door took me about 3 hours from start to finish. Hope this helps out.

 

Well, I searched and nobody has written this up worth a spit, so here goes:

This applies to the T. I don't know about other models, but IIRC they are pretty much the same in the pictures I've seen.

The first panel to be removed is the long skinny one in the center that surrounds the inside lever to open the door.
First remove the plastic bezel that surrounds the door opening lever. This holds the panel in place, but it will release in the rearward direction if you lift the bezel's front edge a bit while pulling it towards the rear. By "lift", I mean pry the bezel up from the surface of the door panel, in other words towards the inside of the car. You can use your fingernails for this. You don't need to pry is "up" a lot, just enough to get it to release rearward. You also may have to lift the the door opener a bit to allow the bezel to "pop" back. Be a bit firm and it will pop right out of there
Next, on the driver's side you need to disconnect the mirror switch. It will lift out of it's hole in the door panel if you pry it "up" (towards the interior) at the front of it. Unlike the bezel, you pry it almost straight "up" so it pivot on the back edge. I use a large flat blade screw driver, but very carefully so as not to harm the surrounding leather. Once the front of it pops free, you can then slide it forward to pull it out enough to disconnect the electrical connector.
Lastly, you remove the one screw at the back of the door by the latch.
You then simply pull the panel towards the rear of the car and it will come right off. Be careful of the "putty" that is gooped into the retaining slots on the back of the panel. That stuff is messy. I got some on my convertible's canvas and it was hell to pay to get it off.

Once that one is off the rest are easy.
The next is the top panel in black vinyl. You have to disconnect the lock "stick". It is attached to the lock mechanism with a small plastic snap. You carefully pry the snap to rotate its clip off the stick. Then the bent end of the stick will slide out of the hole in the snap that the snap's clip was retaining it in. You remove the four screws, and then lift the panel free.

The bottom two panels are secured with screws on the top, the sides (on the front panel), and underneath. Undo the screws and off they come, easy as pie.

 

Hi Oliver,

My rear windows are not lightning either, but they work OK now. I don't know if they have channels that have the rubber liner, but I would imagine so. Couple of things I would try first.

NUMBER ONE (I put this in caps, because this is so important!) DeOxit D5!!! This stuff is a miracle for old cars' electrical systems. I have systematically treated every connector I can access with it and my entire fuse box, and I am now having almost no problems at all. It does what Stabilant does plus it deoxidizes. I keep it handy whenever I am working on the car - If I see another connector, or one that I haven't treated for a while, I treat it as part of whatever else I am doing.

2. My rear windows are very sensitive to the tautness of the top. Now that I have Ron Frohock's steel rods installed in the latches, my top is nice and taut when the latches are latched.

One connector that I have not treated with D5 is the connectors to the rear window motors. I have not disassembled the rear interior yet, but it is on my list. Still, by treating everything else, including of course the rear window switches in the console, my windows are better.