They should last about seven years. While the spring idea is potentially a much longer term solution, the top was designed to use elastic straps for a reason and I'm inclined to follow the OEM construction. One bit of concern about the spring is if it puts too much tension into the system, a unique malfunction may occur that breaks or degrades one or more of the metal parts. Recall that the entire capote mechanism is made from the rare metal unobtainium.
The 2 loops are made in the red strap, at 8cm apart. As the spring is 7cm it is stretched enough to pull the bar.
I have checked before installing. After installing checked again and there are no issues or marks of chafe in any fabric.
You are correct, the goal is to improve the system for years. As the straps are stretched and will fail in time as we know now. This is why I am trying an other idea using correct materials. The spring is not very strong, I compared the tension to the tention of the strap before installing. It is in the same range as I have tried many springs. My goal is certainly not to damage my top/mechanism but finding a way to fix this issue permanently. PS. The cracking manifolds on F430 are due to a wrong type of metal and tension on the brackets dus to expansion. Also a mis engineering in my eyes. Straps are fine for clothing, not for convertible tops. jm2c.
After a trip to Italy (3.500km's/2.000m) and every day sunny with top down I can state the springs are working perfectly. No issues with the opening & closing. Also no marks in the hood/canvas. It is a permanent fix. I made a picture to clarify how it looks like: Image Unavailable, Please Login The white tie-rips are creating the loops in the straps in which I installed a clip to hold the spring. As it was a test I wanted to test several springs so the clips helped me to exchange them easy. At the bottom you can see the plastic strap (=original part of the convertible top) protecting the innerlining. Behind the spring you can see the elastic which is (over)stretched and protecting the top/fabric
Until now no issues having the springs installed. Cap is working perfect en springs doe not give any marks, there is enough room. Found this pic here on Fchat of canvas punched as the straps failed and was not taking care of in time... Note: As 360's have identical tops it could also happen on those, didn't see one myself (yet)...
This is a great idea. Im finishing up a rebuild of my cylinders at the moment and i am going to fool around with the spring idea. If you have any more detail, it would be appreciated. If not the proof of concept is enough to know it can be done!
I think i will try these two items https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008RG659Y/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A2Q1LRYTXHYQ2K&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BF7QDR22/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A1YSTVOK47HJ1J&psc=1 gonna be some trial and error...
Those look in the right ballpark right? It took some iterative searching but keychain connector or keychain strap returned the best results.
I never had an issue with my 2005 F430 top, I even used it once on Christmas Day even here in the Cold North because I seen a bunch of Harleys on the road due to the very mild Christmas Day that year so I said to my Wife lets take the Spider out! I don't have that Car anymore and I am 60-Coupe/40-Spider on the fence for if I get a Coupe or Spider since I really do miss the F430 Experience.
'You can't top' the sound of that engine wailing with the top down, so don't! Not to mention the look of a top down F430 imho
I worked on the springs last night and they do work extremely well. I'll post pics once I am sure everything works after more than a few roof cycles, but basically I took two black zip ties and wrapped one around the header bar itself on the end (there is a small hole where you can pass the zip tie through) and put the zip tie head in the concave part of the bar's end. Then I attached the spring head on the bottom side of the bar where there is space between the bar and the secondary lift cylinder. I attached the other side to the frame where it angles outward at ~45 degrees. I left the spring anodized, but if you sprayed them black, you would never see them. Even as is, you can hardly tell they are there since they are down in the frame of the top. I think I spent <$15 on everything to do this and now that I know the correct orientation, it could be done in less than 30 mins. It took me about an hour to figure it out via trial and error.
Did mis this thread, sorry. But the springs posted by prierick128 are the correct ones. I hope it works for everyone, sure did by me and openend/closed already over 100 times.
Last trip noticed the bolders (which have the creases, always) did not fold up correctly. They have a split which needs to open when folding down/back into the box. There is a flat small strap there pulling at the side of the split to start the correct folding (outward) when moving into the box. I will look into this shortly. When the split is not opening correctly (outward) the canvas is pushed by the mechanism into the storage box leaving a deep dent in the bolder. The deep dent I have removed bij soaking the canvas and park the car into strong sunlight. The fabric re-streched. Be aware of this when you straps are going. I tackle each problem when appear but do not know how to fix this permanently as when the hood closes (split is closed) the strap/band is caught between the two half’s of the split and must be flat. So nu spring can be used. Any thoughts? Anyone?
In the pic you see the grey/black original strap which doesn’t work anymore. Joe (who did a great write up on exchanging the canvas) told me these particular straps you have to watch. As when the canvas do no open/split correctly the frame can bend and big issues start. The pics are taken through the split of the back “fins” When the hood is opening (top part flat backwards) you can stop the cycle and see the split open. Inside the split there is this strap (to secure it opens outward, not inward) It was an easy fix using strap I had laying around. Lucky for you it is white and it makes clear how it is done. needle and thread (make sure the thread is suitable for buttons/dies not break). The needle I used was curved so more grip as I had to go through the canvas and stichting. The length is determined by first stitching one end and then stretching it to the other end and pulls enough to open the split. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Can anyone help me by telling me what the purpose is of this strap connected to the frame, not to the canvas/hood? it is completely shot but the hood works perfectly it is also visible in same position and located down the strap I installed, next to the back window. Can’t understand what is it doing or it’s purpose. Image Unavailable, Please Login
No, but pending on what kind of strap you are using. I used the one laying around and made it black after the install but took the pics before. The split has to open up outward when opening the hood, that is it. So the tension is just a gut feeling. any idea what the purpose is of that strap on the frame? Anyone?
Okay thanks no I don't know what that other strap is for Mine appears to look the same as yours and I often wondered what it's supposed to do
My speculation is that the frame strap is to prevent pinching on the canvas in the hinge area unless someone has a better idea.
