Hey guys, Just when I thought all was well, my car (96 355 spyder) started missing. No SDL no CEL. It did show P1239 pending, injector circuit wiring open number 3. I started playing with the plug on the injector and got the miss to stop. Cleaned the contacts. Cleared the codes and it runs fine until I start moving the wire around and it skips and throws a pending code (P1239). So, I assume I have a break in the wire just before the plug. The wire takes a torturous path just before the plug and I think that is where the break is. Plug seems ok. What is the best way to fix this? Remove the insulation, and solder in some new wiring? Or can you buy a new plug with some wiring? How delicate is the wiring inside the plastic covering? Thank you. ernest
You don't know what it is until you remove the pin from the connector plug, peel back the rubber boot, put a DVM at one end, measure the resistance 6 inches from the plug, and see where the break is. Then fix it. It may be just the crimp.
good point. thanks. Boot is shot. I started doing some more searching and it looks like I can buy some plugs already made up with a length of wiring. I just need to make sure it is the right plug. My apologies, as I did find a couple of old posts when I used the right search words.
As stated earlier check where the break is its probably right at the connector. It will be a better fix. You can buy the plugs do a search and you will find them. They might even be in the sticky sections at the main page on fchat.
I replaced all mine with the gold connector kit. Yes you can replace just the boots, what you need to do is remove the wires with the crimped connectors still intact, slip a new boot over the wires crimp on new connectors after the plastic housing then push connectors back into housing. I dont think you could get the boot over the housing without redoing the crimped on connectors
wiring and assembly on the FI harness is very lame. It pays to rewire this for optimal running or at least repin the connectors. Wire... get the 400 degree F stuff from McMaster carr. Moser has pins gold or tin and boots. buy extraction tool where you buy the crimper. proper crimp tool is critical for success in getting the right shaped crimp and the right crimp pressure to hold the wire but not cut deform the wire. You can read all about the controversy about the different pin parts and tools on fchat. You can source all the stuff yourself, spend time, get lucky, hope you get it all right, and hopefully buy the right parts. There are some on here that say that is easy. I have repaired too many electrical connecters to count and don't think it is so easy. You can buy turnkey kit from SRI that costs you a lot but is of high value, only available kit form, and fully tested to work. It has all the boot replacement tools, heavy duty extraction tools, wire brushes, pins, picks, crimp tool and support. You don't need a kit for just 1 connector but you have 80 posts. You will soon learn there are lots of places for electrical connection improvement to gain optimal running. If you do a few connector pin replacements you will find wire corrosion beyond the factory pin crimps and that will drive any decent diy'er crazy. Then the kit form will look like a good purchase.
It looks like there are a lot of options to buy the plugs and crimp them up yourself or buy them with a pigtail of wire. I will dive into this more on Sunday and see where the problem really is. I am just glad I have it diagnosed. Billybob, thank you for the detailed post. I really couldn't navigate SRI website very well to find the kit you are talking about, but I may give them a call next week. Thanks.
Thought I would post an ending to my connector issue. I ended up buying a new Bosch onnector with a boot from Amazon. Cut off the old connector and crimped the new one on. My connector visually looked fine, but where the wire entered the connector was very weak feeling. The car seems to be ok now and you can jiggle the wire while its running and it doesn't miss. i went on an a long ride today and it never missed a beat. Amazon.com: Bosch 1287013003 Fuel Injector Connector: Automotive Image Unavailable, Please Login
Nice job. I redid all of mine with the gold connector kit and silicone boots from Dave Helms...he includes the double crimping tool, and recommends cleaning and scrubbing the wire before crimping on the new connector to ensure good continuity.
FIY These are also these available on Ebay. The boots are close to the OEM, boots made in Germany, housings/pins are AMP/TE. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bosch-Fuel-Injector-Plug-Kit-Includes-4-Connectors-and-8-Contacts-with-boots/121587351282?_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140602152332%26meid%3Dfcf3a79709f840cd96f17edddfcf68d1%26pid%3D100011%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D2%26sd%3D121560563978
If your connectors are fine but boots are brittle would you want to do this? How big of a risk is it to remove a good connector and crimp a new one on? I'd be worried about getting a crimp as good as the factory wiring.
You can release the terminals and slide the connector and boot off. Replace boot and reconnect. Just make sure you mark which wires go where If the connections are bad, or break, you can crimp on new ones. Getting crimp equal to, or better, than factory is not too difficult. I have a kit similar to this: Amazon.com: Wilmar (W89732) 23-Piece Terminal Release Kit: Automotive
I've never heard of that. I'll need to take a closer look at the connector to understand it. Any idea if I buy just the release tool for this one connector?
I bought a kit similar to what watson posted. The one for the FI connector I used was two pronged and released the pin. Pretty easy once you know how they work. I would imagine replacing all the connectors while the engine is in the car may be work. i didnt look close enough to see if you could pull both harnesses out to the rear of the car for better access to replacing the connectors. I found a source for the boots, but they aren't ribbed like the OE boots, but are sold straight or angled. I am thinking of redoing all my connectors/boots one day. AMP Connectors/Terminals I am looking for a good crimp tool for these pins. I found a couple online. My high dollar weatherpack crimper works ok, but is designed to crimp with a seal on the wire. If anyone has one they like please let me know. I hate to buy junk tools.
Been discussed many times over, but the gold connector kit has gold plated connectors, that have greater tension than the original Bosch connectors. Dave Helms learned the oem Bosch connectors have a cycle life of 10 or 12 cycles before they lose significant tension. His have over 100 cycles, if I recall correctly. Important since these all get removed and reconnected every time the car is through a major service, and other minor services, and diagnostics. Add the rotted boots from heat, and most of the connectors have corrosion and other problems. When I snipped off the connectors and stripped back the wire, I occasionally found significant tarnish on the wire (and connector) from their exposure to the elements from torn and ripped boots. Thus, Dave's instruction to brush the wire with a ss toothbrush and electrical contact cleaner to get a good, solid connection. He also hand picked the various tools in his kit to ensure a solid crimp, and easy disassembly of the connector pins from the housings.
Does anyone happen to know if I need the 37mm 2 pole vs. the 57mm 2/3 pole? I counted 22 boots this morning that I can replace.
