Flooded '88 TR will not start

What version TR? Is the engine family F113A040 (US), F113A (early euro), F113B (late euro)?

 

I flooded my TR once when the battery had problems and I removed both fuel pump relays, started it - it ran, then quickly put them back in. It helps to have someone else pulling and putting back the relays. I don't know if this is safe but it worked for me...

 

For a US version TR (F113A040), this thread will explain some possible reasons why it would crank up OK, and run for a few seconds, but then stall after you've released the key to the "on" position:

http://ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=240041

Since you say that it goes to ~2000 RPM when it lights off, I'd suspect something wrong with the tachometric relay, or its input signals, rather than a dead 7/12 bank ignition (as a dead bank usually gives a more feeble response) -- but will await your findings.

 

Errr.. I hope you don't mean a detroit DIESEL engine. Using starting fluid on a diesel is about the worst thing you could do for it. I would pull a few plugs just to see if they are in fact wet-it doesn't take that long to do, however that doesn't sound like the problem.

 

Dave -- Since both banks are getting spark, the next most likely suspect is the tachometric relay, but you can make a functional measurement to better confirm/deny this by measuring the voltage on the violet wire in the "x" connector (relative to ground) as shown in these jpegs (you should be able to touch the voltmeter lead to the metal contact inside the x white connector while it is still plugged in):
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The voltage should be +12V on the violet wire during starter motor cranking and during engine running -- so, if the voltage on the violet wire is +12V during starter motor cranking (which it almost certainly must be since you indicate that the engine actually fires up and runs for a bit) , but goes to 0V when you release the key to the "on" position after the engine actually starts. then you have reason to go after the tachometric relay. It is mounted behind the fuse-relay panel as shown in this post:

http://ferrarichat.com/forum/showpost.php?p=135657947&postcount=11

which also describes some tests and the signals to test for there.

Give a shout if you need help -- and let us know how it works out.

 

Can't disagree with your conclusion from that result -- if you've got the fuel pumps running (by hot wiring the violet wire), and you know that you have spark on both banks, there really isn't much else. About the only other thing is if the protection relay+fuse isn't giving +12V to run the injection system (but with this flaw usually you can keep the engine running by using throttle modulation). Can't think of anything else though, so would suggest you confirm/deny +12V on the red wire during cranking and the brief running period (or you can hot wire the violet wire without running the engine again -- this should also close the protection relay and put +12V on the red wire):
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Sounds like you are on the right scent! (and, yes, this "red wire" stuff is the same for a F113A040 and a F113B)

This confirms that your tachometric relay is working correctly.

Yes, pin 30 (the GR wire) should always be at +12V (regardless of whether the key is "on" or "off") as this should be (eventually) directly connected to the large +12V battery cable at the back of the starter solenoid. You must fix this situation.

It would only be running well with some extra fuel from the cold start injectors. When there's no +12V to run the KE-Jet injection system (i.e., when the red wire is dead), the EHA current will be 0 mA (instead of the 50~100 mA at initial start-up, decreasing to ~10 mA). With no current in the EHA coil, the plate valve inside the EHA is more open than it would be if there was 10mA in the EHA coil, this more-open valve inside the EHA = higher pressure in the lower chambers = higher pressure in the upper chambers = less pressure drop across the slits = less fuel flow for same size slit opening = leaner mixture for the same airflow plate deflection. The fuel distributor will still be delivering some fuel when the EHA current is 0 mA, but it will be leaner than normal (which is why the usual report for this problem is "rough running, need to goose the throttle to keep it going", but it usually keeps running).

 

Great......... and you found it yourself (with help..) and not the garagists !

But it also helps us here...of course. Makes us think too...(oh well...)....

Can you make photo's please ?

Gr from Mel in NL.

 

Glad to hear that you got it sorted, although the trouble might really be in the swaged connection between the eyelet terminal and the GR wire if there was no obvious uncleanliness apparent (and your getting in and rooting around was enough flexing to re-establish connection) -- but as long as it's working, I wouldn't worry about it. No requirement that you do so, but I definitely do accept contributions to my PayPal account -- PM me if you're so inclined.