Flywheel Kluber grease, quantity, sourcing, group buy?

We purchased all the remaining Kluber from Maddog Clutches with they closed their operation. We have it available in stock, in 200 gram containers here:

https://www.ricambiamerica.com/70000789-kluber-grease.html

I think there are about 25 units remaining on our inventory.

 

Looking at the WSM it says 180 gr. (+ - 5) of Kluber GLK 1301 grease for both versions - single plate and dual plate. Although some other specs are different - see the attached documents.

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The ebay link I sent you, the seller is in the UK.

Not sure which car they were talking about in the first thread of your post above, 348 or 355. Per the 355's WSM, it does call for 220 g plus or minus 5.

In the second thread FBB says "I think..."

Maybe @fatbillybob, @ernie or someone else can enlighten us as to how much is needed for the 348.

This is from the 355 WSM:

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The 355's flywheel is bigger than the one for the 348. So it would make sense that one would use more Kluber grease than the other.

 

My 348 WSM said 180 +/- 5.

 

Thanks @Ferrarium for posting the video earlier

https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/posts/146533427/

In Andrew's video (mdclutches) he says that 180 is enough. Listen at 27:30. In a nutshell, "just fill only the holes"

 

Remember to not put grease on the flat area around the snout, only grease the area and holes around the spring. I see posts where people grease the whole thing like battering a cake.

I bought a new billet flywheel and repack kit for a dual plate from Andrew before he closed shop. I sure hope when I do mine this spring I actual have a dual plate.

 

The load on the bearing depends on the method used to remove it of course. I would replace it if its apart regardless. While the patient is open...

 

There are two 10mm x 1mm holes through which you push out the flywheel. It is quite balanced and will not harm the flywheel or the bearing. You can replace the bearings but I have not seen that to be a requirement.

 

If Daniel runs out, Superformance has it or a substitute.

 

Rupper

Repeat your questions, again.

 

I think the question is
"Question is if the bearing/flywheel assembly is tight enough to damage the bearing?"

If I am pressing the FW out, I'd press that bearing out too whether needed or not. I think most people do not replace it even after pressing out thee FW, never heard any issues doing that.

 

No issues in my case either. It was quite easy to knock the flywheel out of the bearing, not very tight. If I remember well, I partially screwed the old large "hat-bolt" and started the movement of the flywheel by hitting on the bolt (plastic hammer, no hard hitting was required). Once the flywheel was out, I could pull the bearing out of the "pumpkin" by hand. It was just snug fit. During installation of the whole assembly to the gearbox, I installed the new "hat-bolt" and four temporary bolts and washers to prevent the bearing from moving out from the pumpkin housing.

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