For those who have tracked their street cars..

Yes.

Brakes particularly will generally fade significantly over the course of a track weekend. Street brakes aren't designed for the abuse they receive on a track, and should, at the minimum, be inspected after each day out on the track.

Stock street tires are the same way... and would most probably need to be replaced after every track weekend where any spirited driving occurs.

As far suspension... hitting gators (the bumps on the side of the track at some places) can easily knock a tire out of alignment or snap a suspension component.

 

My road 512TR got much better after lots of tracking

My mechanics love that car

 

The harder I push it. The better it both responds and runs. It almost feel like the miles are coming off instead of going on.

 

I have 5K track miles on my 95 F355B and 60K total miles.

I have never found the need to use other than road tires (not even r-compounds) and I am currently running factory road ride heights and alignments. With this setup, both the fronts and the rear tires become slicks within 100 miles of each other. And this seems to be independent of whether I run 98% road 2% track, or 80% road 20% track. I get 9-12K miles from a set of SO3s (for example) or up to 5 track weekends and the requisite 3K miles of road driving to get to the track and back. I routinely run down and pass 360 F1s with r-compounds with my M6 F355 on street tires.

I have had to go to the first stage beyond road brake pads (DS2500) and keep fresh fluid in the system(s) to insure adequate track worthiness. It is my belief that this is completely sufficient for road tires, but that another step beyond these will be needed for r-compounds, and another step again for slicks. With slicks one should be adding air to the rear calipers. As it is, we can roast hot-dogs off the rotors after a good hard session, even with a cool down lap. Several times I have turned the color of the rotors battle-ship grey from its normal iron/steel color.

Durring my last major we replaced all the seals in the calipers. The ones that came out appeared to be more carbon than rubber-ish stuff.

After a good long run at the track, the fuel/ignition mapping is a little off for the first 50 miles driving home as the ECU is relearning the tune of the engine cruising down the highway. After 200 miles the ECU has relearned the whole parameter map. Whether the engine has changed due to the high RPM high load operation at the track, or whether the engine is loading back up with typical carbon and other deposits--I don't know.

I have eaten: 5 CV boots, 1 Cat, 1 rear axel bearing, 1 set of rotors, 8 sets of brake pads, 4 sets of tires, the dual mass flywheel has been rebilt twice, and I have scuffed up the dog gear between 3-4th in the tranny box; and we had to install a threaded insert to the left bottom inner subframe bolt, and one brake line. I have not had to realign the car for 40K miles, or do anything more than repaint the front fascia. You may notice I have not eaten a clutch, but I did eat the secondry throwout.

I do change the engine oil after a track weekend, the tranny oil once a year or after 5 track weekends, and have my mechanic do the track prep.

 

after the track... everything seems slower.

But seriously, folks- On my NSX sometimes I will build up brake deposits on the track that give a little shudder (fronts only). I run upgraded pads for the track (and the same pads on the street- I don't change them). Generally the shudder will go away after a few days of street driving, when the deposits are worn off in the normal course of driving. I have run Hawk and Axxis pads- will have to pay more attention as the shudder is not always there after tracking, so it may be that a specific compound (or mixing compounds on the same rotors!) might be the culprit.

I haven't noticed any engine or tranny differences after tracking the NSX, ever.

 

Oh, and for tires. the NSX runs thru the rear tires almost exactly twice as fast as the fronts. I run Falken Azenis (RT-615s) on both street and track. And drive the car to the track.

 

The 308 loved th track and IMHO she was made a bit healthier as the fluids really slowed through her. Of course one does tend to also CHANGE their fluids more often due to tracking so perhaps it really helped to 'clean out' the lifeblood of the car.

Of course with prolonged tracking comes wear and tear items and usually shorter engine life due to keeping her in the higher rev range.

 

If you have not taken a High performance or racing school the greatest advances in driving your car/speed/flow can be had here.
If you wish to wring out the max performance of your street car choose a school that has the closest similar training vehicle to your car.

The greatest speed benefits can be had by adjusting the nut behind the wheel