Forza Controller Install on 488 with Pics

OK folks, lots of questions but NO good answers on installing the Forza controller on the 488 so I decided to be the guinea pig and post my results. First and foremost though, I would like to shout out the incredible customer service from Steve over at Forza Componenti. I first bought my controller over 2 years ago for my 458 and loved having it on that car. I finally got around to transferring it to my 488 but there are many more vacuum lines and the install point is different than the 458. Steve immediately responded by phone and email, helping me troubleshoot and problem solve until I got everything working. It is rare to find that kind of support and I am most appreciative.

The first notion to disspell is that you have to remove the bumper. This is NOT necessary. The second is that you have to remove the diffuser. This is also NOT necessary (and a bit of a pain as it is heavier than you think!) To access the plug, you simply need to remove the rear wheel and wheel liner and then you have tons of room to connect. In fact, this was a MUCH easier install than on the 458 (once I knew what to do). I will take you through step by step so anyone with even a modest level of mechanical talent can do it. I will separate into several posts as I am not sure how to post multiple pics intermingled with text.

First picture is a schematic of the vacuum system. It is a bit confusing but my later pics will clarify. You will be hooking into the RH and LH vacuum solenoid valves (one on each side).
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Next, remove the rear wheel and then remove the rear wheel liner. I have circled many of the screws that need to come out (I think it was a T27 Torx screw) as well as the suspension line that is attacted to it. There are a couple other hidden ones. Don't forget the one near the bottom of the rear bumper as it is underneath the car.
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Here is a closeup of the suspension line you need to disconnect from the wheel liner:
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Simply squeeze the bottom and rock on an angle and pull out.
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Here is a picture with the liner removed. Note that the rear diffuser is not visible in this picture because I had previously removed it (again, a step that is NOT necessary for the installation.) The arrow above the blue chassis bar is where the vacuum solenoid is. The wire with two connectors loose that I circled is the Forza cable that I threaded from the engine bay to the outside of the heatshield. Then I pulled it through to where you see it.
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Here is a picture of the vacuum solenoid with the stock cable attached.
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Simply pull up on the metal clip (you can use a screwdriver to get it started) and once the clip is removed, the connector simply slides out. This pic shows the end of the connector with the clip pulled off:
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Before getting ready to reattach, it is easiest to put the metal clip back on and then it just snaps into place. Here is a pic with the metal clip loaded and ready to go:
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Now attach one part of the Y end of the cable to the vacuum solenoid and the other part of the Y to the cable you removed from the vacuum solenoid:
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You could choose to mount the unit here in the wheelwell compartment but I wanted to put it up higher away from wet etc... so I put it in the engine bay as Steve did in his youtube install video on the 360. So now, you need to remove the side engine cover. I have circled most of the screws (same size torx head except for the one by the rear window which is actually a nut).
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Once removed, you can now connect the wires from both sides to the controller, attach the ground to the chassis (I tried MANY different screws but the one pictured here was the only one that was close and provided a proper ground), and zip tie the controller and all wires in place.
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Another picture top down of the ground wire attached to the chassis:
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Obviously the other side is the same, so repeat all procedures from the other rear wheel well. Make sure all wires are safely routed and secured (the wire from the other side I tucked behind the airfilter housing), reattach the wheel liners and suspension cable clips, carefully put the wheel back on (don't ding your expensive rotors), retorque lug nuts to the factory spec 74 ft lbs, and enjoy. There are a few other tips in the instructions for the Forza which you should of course follow including noting the position of the valves when the car is off (open position) but hopefully this DIY helps with the rest of it. I also rarely take the my Ferrari key out of my pocket so I took the keychain off the remote and tucked it in the center console where the key would go for easy access and a clean look.
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The Forza controller is an exhaust valve controller that allows you to open or close the exhaust valves according to three programs on your remote control (or hardwired switch if you want). One program is stock, 2nd program is always open, and 3rd is always closed. The main difference is that at idle and at low throttle positions, the valves stay open keeping that glorious Ferrari sound all the time. It really helps to keep the car more engaging and raw. Stock at idle, the 488 almost sounds like a Honda Civic. With the valves open, it sounds 'proper'. Deep and menacing. On the road, it also sounds fantastic and doesn't drone as much as it did on the 458. I think it really makes the sound of the 488 dramatically better which has been a common complaint. Others have recently discussed "pinning" the valves permanently open which does work but then, when you WANT it to be quiet (coming into your neighborhood late at night or passing a cop without attacting even more attention), you can't close it like you can with a Forza controller. No check engine lights when properly installed and works great! No affiliation with the company BTW, just a happy customer.

 

Here's a quick video with the stock idle sound vs. valves open. Others have posted with revs too.

 

I think this technically depends on the dealer. I have heard some dealers tell people that it might but mine installs them so I can't imagine they would raise a fuss. For the other dealers, hard to understand why if they are willing to pin it open permanently that they wouldn't accept a controller. The only way I could see it causing a problem is if you ran if closed all the time and were driving the snot out of the car. I have heard that is not a great idea but there is really very little reason to do this anyway. Ultimately, the dealer would have to prove that the modification caused the failure you are trying to warranty (the so-called Magnuson-Moss law protects aftermarket modifications)

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnuson%E2%80%93Moss_Warranty_Act

 

I have a lift but you can get a hydraulic aluminum floor jack from harbor freight for under $100 that should work just fine. There is a flat place in front of the rear wheels if you look under the car where there is no plastic tray and there is a circular metal nub with a screw thread inside. There is a special insert that can thread in there but you don't need it, as long as there is protective rubber on the jack or some folks use a hockey puck. I'll try to get pics later. Don't forget to use a jack stand, even if you just use it as a safety catch in case there is a jack failure. Belt and suspenders approach!