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FoS... 308 oil filters cheaper

Discussion in 'Northwest' started by jbrosseau, Jan 17, 2004.

  1. jbrosseau

    jbrosseau Karting

    Nov 26, 2003
    182
    kirkland,wa
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    joe brosseau
    was at the dealer today looking at the 2 TR's in stock. also thought i would pick up a new headlight relay and while i was there figured i would get a oil filter. to my surprise they are now $23. last year i paid $40. so whats the deal ? it was a factory UFI filter. any ideas for the drop in price?
     
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  3. Spasso

    Spasso F1 World Champ
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    Maybe they are trying to win back the business of the people that are buying the Baldwin filters for 9.00.

    DJ
     
  4. Peter

    Peter F1 Veteran
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    Dec 21, 2000
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    Ha Ha, sure instead of spending $31 more, one will pay only $14 more.

    ...Makes sense to me... :-D
     
  5. Spasso

    Spasso F1 World Champ
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    What a deal! Doesn't that logic follow the adage, 'Spending a dollar to save a quarter.............'?

    DJ
     
  6. Wasco

    Wasco Formula Junior

    Dec 9, 2003
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    Salem
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    Randy
    I am running the Fram 2401? for 15 bucks at kneckts, it does have the back flow prevention tube that is called for.

    Have you looked at your air filter? I am using the UFI which is a finer material. the K&N will give you more power but let in more dirt too.
     
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  8. f355spider

    f355spider F1 World Champ
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    Wasco, check the archives on the old F-chat site. The big problem with the Fram filter is that the anti-drainback valve regularly fails on them(this in itself is not a huge deal, but on cold start, will take longer for the oil pressure to come up....which means additional wear). The other issue is that the filters can collapse around the standpipe, causing total loss of oil pressure! These are not idle claims, a couple guys that had this exact problem, cut open their filters and posted on the Internet for all to see. I believe Steve Magnusson stripped the photos off the site and saved them, then reposted to F-chat. You will see the valve problem upon cold start, the oil pressure light will take longer than normal to go out (several seconds). The loss in oil pressure, well, that's pretty self explanitory.

    Not ALL Fram 2804-1's are bad, but it appears that they are happening way too often.

    Here are a couple threads worth reading:
    http://www.ferrarichat.com/discus/messages/112/307068.html

    http://www.ferrarichat.com/discus/messages/256120/288083.html

    Best to use the UFI or Baldwin. Your engine will thank you. :)
     
  9. Peter

    Peter F1 Veteran
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    Dec 21, 2000
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    Very true. Baldwin also makes an air-filter for carb 308's (PA2094). Sells for about, or less than half that of the UFI. Features their ultra-fine material for catching microscopic particles.
     
  10. Spasso

    Spasso F1 World Champ
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    Granted, the K&N appears to let in more dirt upon initial inspection but if you treat the filter with the proper oil first it collects microscopic particles like a magnet. Further reading of the instructions and use concepts point out that the accumilation of dirt on the outer surface of the filter actually enhances the filtering efficiency while maintaining free flow. Following the cleaning and reoiling instructions is extremely important to maintain these filters also.

    I have read somewhere in the archives of a person recommending the same procedure be used on an oil filter, " accumilation of dirt on the outer surface enhancing efficiency....". Unfortunately it doesn't work that way on an oil filter. When the filter becomes impacted with dirt to the point that flow is restricted a relief/bypass valve opens (on most cars) and the oil is routed back to the engine directly without being filtered. I'll take my oil filters fresh thanks.

    The above information is a repeat of the basic instructions included with the filters or owner's manuals.

    DJ
     
  11. Wasco

    Wasco Formula Junior

    Dec 9, 2003
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    Dave,

    That is very good info. Where do you get your UFI or Baldwin filters?

    Randy
     
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  13. f355spider

    f355spider F1 World Champ
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    Wasco,
    UFI filters are available from any FNA dealer, or T.Rutlands. UFI oil filter prices are all over the place, so call around, but in the USA, T.Rutlands seems to be the least expensive. But you have to balance that with shipping costs, so buying one or two filters from you local dealer, often makes the most sense.

    http://www.trutlands.com/

    Baldwin filters are available all over North America. Go to their site and type in your zip code (USA) or postal code (Canada).
    http://www.baldwinfilter.com

    BTW, they appear to be of equal quality, but the Baldwin is only about $9 retail. Some prefer the look of the UFI, with the horsy. Choice is yours. They are both good.

    Regards,
    Dave
     
  14. GaryReed

    GaryReed F1 Rookie
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    Just changed the oil in the Boxer for my first time on Monday. Thank you very much Dave T. for the use of your very cool in ground floor lift!

    It took 2- Baldwin filters and 15 quarts of Castrol oil.

    Total cost, less than $50.

    :)
     
  15. Wasco

    Wasco Formula Junior

    Dec 9, 2003
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    Salem
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    Randy
    Dave,

    I appreciate the info. Do you happen to know the correct volume of oil. As I have changed my 78 308 oil for the first time and understood from the manual it would take 1.54 Imperical Gal. or 7.4 quarts. I have put 9.5 quarts to get it up to mark on dip stick. I am a little worried about foaming if I get too much oil in and it is up to crank level.

    I am using Castol 20 50 instead of 10 50.

    Please advise.

    Respectfully,

    Randy
     
  16. f355spider

    f355spider F1 World Champ
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    Randy,
    I'm surprised. I had a 78 308 GTS and could only get around 8 to 8.5 quarts in during a change. Make sure you are checking it right. You want to start and warm it up to operating temp (around 170-190 degrees oil temp) then shut down and wait 15 minutes before checking. Earlier or much later will skew the reading. It actually fluctuates quite a bit during that 15 minutes reading alternately high and low until it starts to stabilize at around 15 minutes. Weird I know, but I foolishly checked the oil level every minute for 15 minutes to figure out why I was getting such differing readings and figured out the pattern.

    It varied about .75 of a quart max (high or low) from what it finally stabilized at.

    Check the owner's manual for the procedure.
     
  17. Spasso

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    I seem to recall my manual reading 1.05 ga. not 1.5.
    Another check?
    DJ
     
  18. Wasco

    Wasco Formula Junior

    Dec 9, 2003
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    Thanks Guys this helps.

    I did recheck the manual and it actually states that waiting will skew as the oil cooler drains down. However I am NOT discounting what you have written, I will definitely keep a very close eye on it.

    PS found baldwin filters for nine bucks five minutes from home.
     
  19. Spasso

    Spasso F1 World Champ
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    OOOPS, That 1.05 was for my gearbox. Sorry.
    DJ
     
  20. GaryReed

    GaryReed F1 Rookie
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    I would -not- recommend adding exactly what your owner's manuals list for "oil capacity".

    The manuals tend to list the amount of oil that a totally empty "dry" engine would take. Quite a lot of the oil stays trapped in the oil cooler and other passages when you drain the engine. You could end up over filling it, if you went "by the book".
     
  21. f355spider

    f355spider F1 World Champ
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    Again, go by whatever the manual says. I could be wrong in my memory of the 308 (wouldn't be the first time!). Upon reflection, I think I found that it was most accurate to measure right after shutdown, and up to two minutes after. After two minutes the level started to fluctuate up and down a bunch.

    If you get really bored one day, try checking the oil every 30 seconds after shut down, up to two minutes, then every minute for up to 15 minutes and record what the readings are....
     
  22. Peter

    Peter F1 Veteran
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    Dec 21, 2000
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    My method:

    • Stone-cold engine (car hasn't moved in a few days), oil level on my dipstick is 7/16 - 1/2" above the Max line.

    Stone-cold is a reliable, fixed variable, than waiting after certain periods of time to pass (as noted, waiting 2 min will give one result, a minute later will be different due to oil settling from systems. Should one follow a stop-watch to check oil???). When stone-cold, the vast majority of oil will have drained from the filter, the cooler, the valleys in the cylinder heads, etc and will be in the sump (approx. the 1/2" worth of oil on the dipstick).

    Just my method...
     
  23. Spasso

    Spasso F1 World Champ
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    Thats about where mine ends up cold also.:cool:
    DJ
     
  24. Peter

    Peter F1 Veteran
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    Thanks for mentioning that. It looks like its consistent then...
     
  25. Spasso

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  26. f355spider

    f355spider F1 World Champ
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    New lower price on UFI's from Ferrari UK. Now only $15.50!
     
  27. Sophia

    Sophia Formula Junior

    Aug 17, 2003
    298
    Dash Point/Federal W
    Full Name:
    Peter Barbin
    T. Rutland's price for the UFI filters was only about a dollar less than FoS. I called and checked just a few days ago...add in shipping charges and its cheaper to go local if you are only purchasing a few items.

    In the years working as a wrench for dealerships and independents, I personally witnessed the damage cheap oil filters can do. Sorry FRAM, the Allied Signal corporate race to the bottom philosophy resulted design quality sacrifices puts your oil filters on the bottom of my list. Cheap, low quality materials, "short canning" the filters and witnessed engine failures resulting from such deficiencies.

    The cost of rebuilding my Ferrari engine due to saving a few bucks on a filter would be tragically comparative. This car is my vice in life, and since I kicked the coffee habit, UFI filters and better red wine and flowers for my wife all fit in.

    I tend to spend a little extra on our fleet at home when it comes to tune up parts/filters. I find a dealer that offers fair prices for OEM parts (that aren't too inflated over after-market). Most often the fit and performance is consistent and it takes out the question..."does it really meet or exceed the engineers' design intentions?"

    Checking my 308 oil: Cold=High over the mark, for accuracy I wait until fuel up. I fill the tank slowly, when its done and after stowing the pump handle etc. I pull & wipe, dip and check...its right on the mark.

    When changing oil, I usually do it after a nice long drive...often in the evening. I'll let it drain all night and in the morning finish to owners manual capacity. Then go fuel up and check as mentioned above. Works for me.
     

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