Fried Alternator Cable | FerrariChat

Fried Alternator Cable

Discussion in '360/430' started by 400iGuy, Dec 13, 2015.

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  1. 400iGuy

    400iGuy Formula 3
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    #1 400iGuy, Dec 13, 2015
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Anyone had this problem? It started with the battery light staying on. So I figured I needed an alternator rebuild. But nooooooo, not so simple.

    The alternator cable (PN 213155 Complete Connection Cables for Motor Utilities) is fried completely through making no connection. This is on a 2004 360 F1 Spider with ~20K miles.

    It requires the replacement of the complete cable which is connected to a number of things (A/C compressor, starter, electrical connections in the interior behind the seats). After it's replaced then the alternator will have to be checked out and possibly rebuilt.

    Al
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  2. jtucker

    jtucker Rookie

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    I had the same issue two years ago with my 2004 360 6-speed. An expensive repair but the updated cable is evidently more robust. Rebuilt the alternator as part of the repair. Ferrari dealer told me it's not uncommon on 360s, particularly ones in warmer climates.
     
  3. vrsurgeon

    vrsurgeon F1 World Champ
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    It's a single cable from the starter to the alternator to the + post behind the drivers seat. The other lines are wrapped into the harness with the single large gauge cable from the alternator. I'd say checkout the wiring diagram but Ferraridatabase is gone.

    Not uncommon to have the end of the alternator cable fray and oxidize.
     
  4. Ingpr

    Ingpr F1 Rookie

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    Happened to me and I solved it with a direct cable to the terminal behind the seats.
     
  5. mr_bock

    mr_bock Formula 3

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    From the picture, it looks like the connection to the alternator has corrosion. That may act as added resistance to the cable and create heat... Just my thought on this. I just had my alternator off and rebuilt as I had to drop the oil pan and A/C compressor. My cable looked fine.

    Good Luck!!!!
     
  6. Ingenere

    Ingenere F1 Veteran
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    This is interesting.... I have an intermittent battery light, as well as a hot start problem. I wonder if this cable could be failing.
     
  7. Monteman

    Monteman Formula 3
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    That is exactly what happened to mine. The corrosion created enough resistance that the cable started to catch on fire. Fortunately, we caught it before it became a bigger issue. Definitely something to keep an eye on if you have the belly pan off.
     
  8. Kevin Rev'n

    Kevin Rev'n Two Time F1 World Champ
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    #8 Kevin Rev'n, Dec 14, 2015
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    You can have a new section spliced onto your cable for minimal $$$. I did this to mine at the F-Dealer for ~300 bucks, he used a heavy duty butt splice and added a new cable end. I think it was 3K to replace the cable with new Ferrari part and 1200 of that was labor. The stock cable is a spendy item because it is not a simple loom. I think the part is 179833 here is a picture of it First Pic. 2nd pic is how mine looked on my car with only 9K on odometer and stock electronics. This was in 2014. Third pic is how far the under the sheathing the damage had gone. Last pic is the repaired cable getting for re-install. Note the extra layer of insulation added to end of cable to hopefully give it a long life.
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  9. Rifledriver

    Rifledriver Three Time F1 World Champ

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    Actually it really starts with either a poor connection or a perpetually compromised battery.

    Cars with a battery and connections that are being looked after will never have that problem.
     
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  10. 400iGuy

    400iGuy Formula 3
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    Thanks to all who provided input. It makes me feel a little better to know I'm not the only one who's had this problem!

    Kevin, Thanks for the photos. I'm going the route of replacing the cable, I'm just more comfortable with that solution. It's interesting in your second photo how rusted/corroded the nut/stud are on the alternator.

    Rifledriver, I've had the 360 for 3 years and 6,000 miles, it had a new battery when I bought it and it's always been charged as far as I know. During my ownership it's never been on a charger but it's driven regularly (easy to do with Florida weather). Could this have been something that started because of battery issues prior to my ownership?

    Al
     
  11. Rifledriver

    Rifledriver Three Time F1 World Champ

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    Has the alternator connection ever been checked? Has the battery ever been load tested?

    Both should be done at annual services.


    That may be a common condition but it is not a normal condition. I service plenty of high mile 360's that have never had the problem. It is 100% avoidable.
     
  12. Kevin Rev'n

    Kevin Rev'n Two Time F1 World Champ
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    #12 Kevin Rev'n, Dec 18, 2015
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  13. Melvok

    Melvok F1 World Champ
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    Please tell us the result ! :D
     
  14. Melvok

    Melvok F1 World Champ
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    DRAKA is a NL firm but any cable firm can replace this imo !
     
  15. vrsurgeon

    vrsurgeon F1 World Champ
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    I'v ehad mine 5 years+ and put 10,000 miles on her. No problem with the alternator. Am Replacing my batteries every 3-4 years preventatively. If she starts to crank slower.. replace. I'd put my money on Prior owners running with a near dead battery. It hasn't just happened in the last 3 years but has been building over time IMHO.
     
  16. plahaye

    plahaye Rookie

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    This type failure is not just a Ferrari thing. Had the same problem on my Motor Home inverter cable at the 300 Amp fuse block. Simple fix, cut away the heat damaged cable back to good cable and solder on a new connector if your cable is long enough. Or, as has been suggested, butt splice in a new section of cable with a new connector. No need to change the entire harness and it is a quick, inexpensive, and appropriate fix. A new harness will have the same crimped connectors and may fail again. Soldered electrical connections are always better than crimped connectors by the way.
     
  17. Rifledriver

    Rifledriver Three Time F1 World Champ

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    Except for the fact that the entire electronics industry does not agree.
     
  18. Rifledriver

    Rifledriver Three Time F1 World Champ

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    Never seen on cars properly serviced.
     
  19. Melvok

    Melvok F1 World Champ
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    Here you have a good point Brian :D
     
  20. plahaye

    plahaye Rookie

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    Learn something every day. Looks like you guys were right about the auto industry using just crimped connections. Lot of discussion about both crimped and soldered connections and when crimped correctly, crimps are superior to soldering. The anti-crimping opinions seem to come from crimping without the proper tools and with commonly available cheap connectors. Soldering tends to encourage breakage at the solder margin as that portion of the wire becomes stiff and may break in a high vibration environment and if improper flux is used, that encourages corrosion of the connection.
    Now I have to order an expensive crimping tool! Ignorance was bliss! Thanks for correcting me guys.
     
  21. Rifledriver

    Rifledriver Three Time F1 World Champ

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    A good solder is better than a bad crimp so do what you are good at.

    The point is in a controlled environment crimps are better.
     
  22. Kevin Rev'n

    Kevin Rev'n Two Time F1 World Champ
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    I try to mention checking this cable whenever someone starts asking about a garage queen purchase because this has been my experience with mine. My car was serviced correctly AFAIK from Newport Beach Ferrari and Eugenio over the 11 years before I picked it up. The car only had 5700 miles on it though!
     
  23. Rifledriver

    Rifledriver Three Time F1 World Champ

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    Most of those when I check them are loose.


    That means more resistance, that means more heat, that means more resistance....china syndrome.

    Cars need to be taken care of. It is really that simple. Those cables die because of poor maintenance. It took a long time to get that way. That means there were a lot of missed chances to stop it from happening.
     
  24. 400iGuy

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    #24 400iGuy, Dec 23, 2015
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Here is what the offending cable looks like. From my untrained eye it looks like only 3/8 of an inch of the cable was in the end when it was soldered together.

    Rifledriver said it won't happen in a well maintained car and I plan on doing that so I don't expect to see this failure again!

    Al
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  25. Jaymac

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    I just found this thread after this happened to a friend of mine recently. Led to the alternator losing power which led to the car dying in the middle of an intersection after the Cavallino Classic this year. Had to be pushed to the side of the road. After getting diagnosed at Ferrari of Palm Beach with an exorbitant quote, he found an Indy in the area who offers the service of splicing in new cable and connector where the original was corroded and burned for a fraction of the cost. After he told me of his experience, and that the Indy mentioned it being a somewhat common occurrence, I found this thread, and pulled my pan to check mine right away. Thankfully, my connection and hardware to the alternator are shiny and clean, with no corrosion on the cable itself. From Brian’s advice, I checked the nut for proper tension, and was able to get less than an 1/8 turn out of it, but I was happy to have it snugged up. Happy days! This is now definitely on my checklist of items to inspect every time I’m in there from now on.
    Thanks!
     
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