Hi guys, I would like to change the oil on my 575M using my race ramps. On my other cars I do it like the Mercedes dealer does, i.e. use a marine oil suction pump and tank. I do it on my M5 and Mercedes. Super clean and fast, no messy drips, no going under the car, etc. On the 575 I will have to do it Porsche style, go underneath and drain it. The undertray plastic panel, from what I saw from some other threads where it was modified for protection looks huge, and seems to be extending all the way to the back of the engine. Is there a smaller panel opening for the oil plugs, or, if it is only one piece, can it be removed from underneath the car, using race ramps... or do I need to take the car up on a garage lift? Kindly let know how you do it. Many thanks!
I've done an oil change on my 550 and it is one large panel that goes from the back of the bumper to beyond the back of the engine. I have the use of a 2 poster lift and wouldn't want to do the job on ramps. I don't know about the 575 but the 550 has a hose that connects to the panel near the alternator. It may be fiddly trying to re-connect that when on ramps. Also with the whole panel removed (as opposed to part) it gives you the opportunity to inspect for leaks, etc.
Even though it's pretty big and unwieldy, I remove mine with the car on ramps, no problem. My duct hose (mentioned above) is long enough that I can lower the tray to the floor and then disconnect it. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Looks pretty simple in the workshop manual, which you can buy from Daniel at Ricambi for $125. 19 screws to remove and then two hoses to disconnect after dropping the front underbody panel.
Thanks Mark, Tom, and Taz. You guys are great. Mark, I agree with you. Up on a lift will be much better, given that the panel is so big. Tom, your photo is invaluable. It makes me want to try. How do you go about getting all the screws out, especially in the back. There is only one hose for cooling the alternator or there is one more? Will send you a PM and maybe we can chat on the phone. It's always nice to connect in person, and we are both on the West Coast ( I am in Bellevue, WA) Taz, thanks for letting me know about the service manual. I will definitively buy it. Much appreciated!!! Thanks to each of you! MATTHEW
Matthew- I was actually thinking about the HGTC version, which has two hoses for brake cooling, in addition to the one for the alternator, my mistake.
I do it all the time with a jack and jack stands. When re-installing it, you have to do the front first. Put a small box or something about 3-4 inches shorter than the height to the car at the rear to support the rear while fastening the front.
Hello Dave, where do you place the axle stands when you jack the car at the jack points? Or do you jack the car somewhere else and place the axle stands at the jack points ? I also want to remove the undertray to do some work underneath, so need to get it safely on axle stands. Suggestions highly appreciated! Bert
I jack the car up using the jack points on the body and place the jack stands under the lower wishbones. My jack lifts up pretty high and I have pretty husky jack stands so there's lots of room. Only trouble is I can't work on top with it jacked up, its too high!
That front undertray is a real pita and heavy even when I go at ti on my lift. You guys not using a lift have much more patience than me. What we should do is pull a mold of this front undertray and have about 20 of them made in very light carbon fiber and kevlar. After a long day of wrenching I had balancing that thing on my head while I try to find a bolt hole.
I had a shop for 20 years and I had a lift, I find its easier to do on the ground as long as you support the rear.
Thanks Dave, that's a good suggestion to put the axle stands under the lower wishbones. You probably have to take the wheels off to get enough room for the axle stands Suppose you can do the same at the rear as well?
I'm sure everyone is aware of the potential dangers of jacking a car up with a trolley jack? I wish I was more aware 20 years ago when jacking up my pristine 308QV. Be aware that a trolley jack because of its scissor action moves slightly toward the vehicle as the jack extends ... as you read on see when you notice the error. This car lived in a garage with a concrete floor and was jacked up quite regularly to change wheels and so on .... never had a problem. I inherited a Persian carpet that couldn't go in the house so I put it under the F, thinking I was spoiling the young(ish) girl. The jack point for the 308 is just in front of the rear wheel and is not terribly secure at the best of times. Whilst talking to a good friend, telling him how the carpet under the car really 'made' the car, I was jacking her up to change the wheels over. Suddenly with absolutely NO warning the car fell off the jack ... the top of the jack ripped through the sill and bodywork as the car neatly settled on the ground, with the jack still extended. After a few seconds my friend was showered in 'projectile tears' Who can guess what happened??
The jack hit the carpet, stopping its forward movement so the jack pad effectively moved outwards as it was lifted and slipped off the jacking point. Moral of the story is "Persian Carpets are for flying, not to be put under cars"
Dave ... got it in one. Just yesterday I was jacking the tractor up (which REALLY does not need to slip off the jack) and my mind drifted back 20 years . Taz .. the projectile tears were from my eyes!!!. Missed the brake lines ... somewhere in the archives I have a photo of the aftermath ... not pretty. Opened the side of the sill and panel like a can opener.
It seems that my 575 manual has no alternator cooling hose although the openings are there on the alternator shroud and the under tray. Easily fixed however there is another opening in the tray on the other side, where does that missing hose go to? Can't find on Ricambi's pics.
Willy- Seems like that was an access to something, but do not remember what. There is a plug that fits in there.