Front Shocks NLA?

Hi

Looking at replacing front shock absorbers (dampers). For 1983 400i - therefore Koni 82-2173-SP1 or Ferrari Part Number 117718.

Front shock-absorber:
(from chassis number 42705) Koni 82T-2173 Part No: 117718

Been told that they are no longer available by the usual suspects here in the UK - Eurospares, Maranello and Superformance.

Anyone bought any recently in the UK or US ?? ...and from where & price?


Thanks guys

 

http://www.allferrariparts.com/search.php?part=true

http://www.ricambiamerica.com/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=117718&osCsid=s6up61mq61k44tr7ulo8p3r665

http://www.eurospares.co.uk/searchResult.asp?M=1&Mo=&A=&B=&S=117718

http://www.trutlands.com/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=117718&osCsid=a7b5e40657cf7fe9b7c22ffbe134a1d0

 

Thanks Dave - amazed at your quick response this is almost like instant messaging!

I replaced the springs last year and I knew I should have done the dampers then.

Does anyone know if it is a big job to replace the dampers - whats involved and labour hours - by an experienced mechanic - not me I might add!!

Andrew

 

First- hand experience here. I took mine out several years back on my Ser.1 1980 400i...Pretty straight forward job here, but before you start, order new steel-jacketed shock bushings. The are probably shot. The only hitch in the whole git-along is that if you plan to re-use either the shocks or the bushings..the bushings MAY have to be pressed out with a press, or you could possibly damage either part(they've only been in there 20+ years or so). Shop for the bushings on the sites that Dave gave you..they may vary in price substantially..however I recall that all of the shock bushings on the car are the same part#. I hope this is of some value to you..Jacques.

 

Andrew
First are you sure that you need new shocks. The fronts are adjustable and if they feel week they can be adjusted stiffer. I had mine off last winter and stiffened mine a half turn on general principles of age and miles.

Be sure to have a good spring compressor to compress the spring; any good shop will have what they need.

I replaced the lower perch rubbers as they were pretty much squeezed out of place.

As for the lower bush there are two types that fit. I suggest using the one that has bigger outer diameter for the center steel bush. This is the correct part number but some people substitute the one with more rubber and less steel. They are currently available on eBay but these may not be the correct ones; the 14 mm bolt hole ones on eBay are NOT the correct ones.

My suggestion for removing the lower bush is the push the rubber out; it should come out easily. Rather than pressing the old bush out and risk damage to the shock, carefully cut through the bushing with a hack saw or Dremel thin disc. Cut until you are nearly through to the shock eyelet. A few taps with a chisel at the cut line and it will come out easily as it has lost all of its strength.

A good shop can press the bush in easily. For me, I start the bush into the shock using a bolt to pull it through. This makes sure the bush starts in straight rather than at an angle.

The whole job is not difficult, but think about if you really need the shocks. Take one out and test it with the adjustment taken up. Although most people think Koni has adjustment to change your car from "soft" to stiff, in fact the official and original reason Koni went adjustable was to make up for internal wear of the orifice during normal lifetime of the shock. That is why they did not make it an easy external adjustment like a Spax.
Ken

 

Hi Guys

The reason why Im heading down the shock replacement route is because the distance between the tyre and top wheel arch is 3 fingers one side and two the other!!

As the springs where replaced last year with new ones on both sides Im assuming the shock is failing.

Assuming that the shock is undamaged;

1 can it be adjusted?

2. The Handbook shows that it has oil!?. Meaning it gives a type and quantity idication. But I cannot find a procedure to re-fill.

Im getting confused now any help will be gratefully received


Andrew

 

The shocks don't hold the car up, the springs do...Although shocks might be needed for other reasons, I'd recheck the springs first.

Even if the shocks are NLA, Koni, True Choice and other can rebuild yours.

Best,
David

 

Ditto to what David has written. Shocks damp oscillations; they do not carry a load. This is not so for our rear shocks or if you talk about Monroe air "Load Levelers" for pickup trucks, but the 400's front shocks damp oscillations...period.

Now if the lower push is completely shot you will lose about one finger of height because the shock is also the spring perch. The top mounting blocks might also have a difference of that much but only if installed incorrectly. The spring perches that I replaced might account for the height of a big toe nail if worn through.

Shock replacement, adjustment or rebuild should be based on resistance to bound and rebound resistance not ride height. I repeat my earlier post that they can be adjusted, but not for ride height only resistance.
Ken

 

Ken;

Where is the adjustment made? (re: attached IPB)

Bruce
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Adjustment is inside the dampener, but you do not take it apart. Here is procedure.
You remove the spring/dampener assembly from the car. You remove the spring from the dampener....use a good spring compressor or you can launch the spring! Once the spring is off, fully compress the shaft of the dampener and gently rotate it to engage the bottom of the shaft in the adjuster. I believe it is 3 full turns from full soft to full stiff. (maybe 5 half turns). Original setting was about half way. Count turns from starting point to full soft (CCW) then count turns to full stiff (CW). Test stiffness by hand, you should feel significant difference in one direction (in or out, I forget). Adjuster only works when fully depressed, but be GENTLE, do not force it! I set mine half turn stiffer than "factory" setting. You will need a good spring compressor set to get spring back on.

IF I get a minute I will copy the manual for the adjustment to get the vagueness out of my procedure.
Ken

 

Thanks Ken

Inspected the car this morning on a ramp and your suggestion about the lower bush is correct. It is clearly worn through the rubber and resting 'metal to metal'.

Item 7 in Parts Diagram above. Clearly the least expensive part option to replace. Happily.

Thank you all for your help and advice.

Andrew

 

Andrew
I'm two for two on last technical items I have chimed in on. Be sure to get the bushing with the heavier metal sleeve. The rears that have 12mm bolts have more rubber and less steel but some places list them as "interchangeable"
Ken

 

!!