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Fuel Injected firewall...

Discussion in '308/328' started by ramosel, Sep 6, 2009.

  1. ramosel

    ramosel Formula 3

    Sep 11, 2004
    1,236
    Meadow Vista, CA
    Full Name:
    R Moseley
    No, I really mean that....<grin>
    As a result of a lot of metal cancer above the mufflers and cats, I repaired that area using a slightly heavier gauge (20g) of Stainless Stell. So while I was at it I also had the front and rear engine facing firewalls made up in the same heavier SS as well. Front is a no brainer, few holes, slots, etc., done. Rear is a slightly different case. in the area behind the fuel injection distributor (see), there is a slight dimple in the panel - about 6 inches long, 1/4 inch deep and 1-1/2 inches wide. I suppose this dimple is there for clearance between the firewall and the FI dist. I went back to look at all my tear down pictures and the best I can tell, it may not be needed. It looks like a flat piece would have clearance. Can I get someone with an intact FI car to take a look at this area and tell if that dimple is needed or just a good idea?

    If it is needed, anyone have a great idea on how to put it there...? Pos/neg blocks and a big hammer, pipe and big hammer or just a big hammer? Cut/fold/weld? Any ideas apprecited.

    Rick
     
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  3. Paul_308

    Paul_308 Formula 3

    Mar 12, 2004
    2,335
    I suspect you've chosen stainless as an overkill reaction to never seeing rust again ever. But stainless cannot be worked cold like steel can. The area to be worked needs to be close to red hot before engaging your hammer, and then you stand a good chance of warping the remainder of the piece.

    Without looking at my car (1980 gtbi) I'm certain the wall is flat behind the fuel distributor as I have my stereo (10 disk changer and 2 50W amplifiers) mounted on the trunk side just opposite that area. Hopefully you won't need to recreate that large dimple.
     
  4. ramosel

    ramosel Formula 3

    Sep 11, 2004
    1,236
    Meadow Vista, CA
    Full Name:
    R Moseley
    #3 ramosel, Sep 11, 2009
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Nah, not "overkill reaction". Anytime I have to replace non painted sheet metal I always do stainless. Stainless will "work" but you have to treat it like steel 2-4 gauges heavier. I have a good friend who is a retired steam fitter who guided me through buck. I didn't have hardwood so I just used a 4x6 of pine. For the final "push" I did make an aluminum puck for the positive. Some small wrinkles to work out. There was one nasty one but it turned out to be right where you have to cut out for the bracket that holds the FI distributor. Still some more work to do... but this is it so far.

    Oh, you wouldn't see the dimple in your trunk where your stereo is... its a double wall box.

    Rick
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