fuel injector ribbed rubber boots

I would highly recommend installing the upgraded gold connector and aircraft grade boot kit from Dave Helms ("davehelms" on FCat).

See http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=239159

Tom

 

Thanks Tom.

Did your car ever get completely sorted out? Yours and T's are still on my problem list.

 

I still have the P0102 issue which I think is causing a rough idle. I can't find any vacuum or intake leaks. I have new exhaust headers so the exhaust should be good. I rechecked the electrical connections and they look good. I still get the P0102 using either one of my ECUs though.

 

The ribbed ones are garbage. Get the super high quality ones from Dave Helms as previously suggested, he also sells the tools. If you want, you can go the highly recommended gold connector pin upgrade as well. Dave's are made from a thicker, high quality silicone material, and fit much tighter around the wires, sealing out dirt and moisture much better than the oem boots. These will be the last ones you ever will have to purchase...

 

+1

The gold kit will be the most worthwhile investment you make on your car.
Not that I ever doubted Dave, but I was amazed at what a difference it makes in the way these cars run after installing the kit. You won't know what difference it makes until you see and feel it for yourself.

 

I want one, i want one. but when available?

 

Your car, T's car and Hugh's car are the three in my unresolved file. I want EVERYTHING working properly on each of these. The results are undeniable but I want a properly (!) finished install to resolve all of the gremlins or at least allow us to replace components with a high degree of confidence we are not dealing with ghosts.

T's car I believe I understand it and think there is a part problem there. I have experienced exactly the same in house with the 355 I bought/was going to buy/am storing... long story. Since then I have seen it on two others and have had long conversations with engineers regarding it. More to follow there as I have no intension of dropping that.

I believe I understand Hugh's problem and will have parts to attempt a repair for that shortly. To that end I think there is a high probability the same fix will resolve your problem.

Fatso, you and Hugh will be the first three to test that theory and see if it holds any merit. Fixing these three is key to defining what the Gold Connector Kit includes, some things have proven they cant be options and must be included. After a conversation yesterday my weekend is filled doing the same changes for the TR kits.

 

Any time. The headache comes in that it is continually changing as we identify unique problems and solutions for those. I have held back a number recently as we are right on the edge of some big changes that will better it a great amount. It is unrealistic for me to think it is ever "Done" but when substantial improvements are days away I would rather wait for those to be completed.... much to the chagrin of my accountant (read: wife).

 

I shall be patient Dave, but may need to chat with your accountant re income generation! Got engine out and in bits so an ideal time to do this as well. but wont be going back in for a while yet.

 

Yup.... I have figured out which end of these cars is dangerous now but am a long way from figuring out how to generate a good income from working on them. Pratice, pratice....

 

The non-ribbed boots are available from www.eagleday.com and I think it's called "boots for junior timer amp connectors". There is a entry on the left of the website for connectors. FWIW

Jeff Pintler
89 348tb, 86tr, 99 360 3pedal

 

Did you ever add the thermocouple ECU connectors to the kit? Every once in a while, I will get an intermittent code related to those connectors. It would be nice to upgrade them with gold plated pins.

 

Yes, and a number of others in recent months

 

Interestingly, I have been fighting a ghost here too. I will have SRI's final solution in the near future but in the meantime I have found an easy bypass to the slow down light circuitry. I also found that indeed my sdlight is a ghost. It seems that any motronic ecu after the 2.7 motronic is a bit more advanced than just pulling the connector plug like we did on the 348's. So you either have to fix them or bypass them.

I am also thinking that if a diy'er is smart enough and can pay attention to detail during the SRI gold kit install he should be smart enough to manually monitor egt and cat temps on the dash which could give much more diagnostic info of the car's running than the SDecu ever could. SD light errors are rarely believed because we all know the quality of this circuitry.

As another aside on another thread RifleDriver talks about cam timing being off helping to throw these SD codes and cam timing being off as little as 5 degrees on some motors being able to help destroy cats. 5 degrees is well within the error of "assembly marks". So for those who just set-up their cars to the marks and run them think about that compromise again. It is just one more reason to learn how to use a degree wheel and dial gage.

 

Jeff,
to compare those boots sold by Eagle Day with Dave Helms is night and day! The Eagle Day ones are usable, but are nowhere near as thickly constructed. Nor are they made from more durable silicone. Also, the end where the wire threads out is very large, and loose, allowing the entry of water and dirt. Use Dave's boots, they are much better. I had the Eagle Day ones installed on my car during a major service, and later, when I was updating to the SRI gold connector kit, I found the plugs for the right side Cat ECUs full of water! Yup, the loose fit of the Eagle Day boots to the wire, allow water entry into the plug! Replaced with Daves boots, and dry as a bone...