Funny noise in third gear... | FerrariChat

Funny noise in third gear...

Discussion in '348/355' started by JDG16, Feb 25, 2012.

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  1. JDG16

    JDG16 Karting

    Jul 25, 2011
    200
    Houston
    Full Name:
    Justin
    So today I took my F355 out for her first "real" exercise and it didn't end so well. Basically after pushing her pretty hard (keeping up with a faster car) on some country roads, I got threw a CEL 5-8 on the way back. Pulled over and the oil seemed pretty low so I added some. She was idling much more roughly than normal as well.

    I decided I would just introduce myself to the local dealer (earlier than I wanted to haha) and I drove about 20 minutes on the highway to the dealer at which point I got "Slowdown 5-8" over about 75mph that disappeared below that..

    I've read a good amount on causes of CEL and Slowdown lights so realize it could be a variety of things from valves to gas cap. I did, however, notice one odd noise earlier in the drive and wanted to see if people here had experienced it or thought it could be related.

    In third gear, and third gear only, when driving in the 5,000 to 5,5000 range I got a strange rattle... as if something spinning was rubbing on something else. It literally only occurred in 3rd gear and only in that narrow rev range. If I was accelerating through that range, nothing. However, if I was driving in that range or falling down through the revs in third, through in that range, I got the noise.

    Any thoughts?

    Any idea what that could be?
     
  2. plugzit

    plugzit F1 Veteran
    Silver Subscribed

    Dec 1, 2004
    7,755
    Redondo Beach, CA
    Full Name:
    Bruce Bogart
    Here's an article written by an acquaintance of mine that talks about noises. While written about Jeeps, it's a good primer on indentifying and describing noises.

    What’s that noise?

    You’re driving home after a great day of off-roading and notice a new noise coming from somewhere in the Jeep. Dayum. Whattheheckisthat?

    Well, as off-roaders we are always seeking new challenges. One of those challenges that’s a little unwelcome is the appearance of those new noises. You wonder what’s going to happen. Will the motor quit and leave me stranded? Will it suddenly steer itself off the highway?

    So you pull off the road and open the hood. You look inside. Yep, the motor is still there. Good. You look under the vehicle. Nothing hanging down. Now what? You call a friend who’s a good mechanic.

    “What does it sound like?” he asks.

    You answer as intelligently as possible “Clackety clackety clack”.

    He replies “Sounds like the clacker to me. Better have it towed.”

    We don’t want this scene, do we? Well, I’m gonna tell you how to identify what’s happening in your vehicle and how to better communicate remotely with your buddy the mechanic.

    The source of a noise is identified by a combination of characteristics and a process of elimination:

    I. Speed (frequency)-under what circumstances does the speed of the noise increase and decrease?
    A. Does it speed up in direct relation to the road speed of the vehicle? Wheels, brakes, axles, differential, and driveshaft speeds are in direct relation to the speed of the vehicle.
    The driveshaft spins about four times faster than wheels and axles.
    B. Does it speed up and slow down depending on which gear the transmission is in? The engine (along with the accessories; alternator, water pump, power steering, and air conditioning) and transmission speeds are relative to the gear you’re in.
    C. Does it happen when the vehicle is sitting still with the motor running? If yes, then it can only be in the engine and accessories or transmission input. What happens when you depress the clutch, thus eliminating the transmission input? Further narrow it down by speed relative to the engine rpm. The rotation of the crankshaft and travel of the pistons define the speed of the engine. The valve train (tappets and rocker arms) runs at half the speed of the engine. The accessories vary according to pulley size.

    II. Nature of sound.
    A. Is it a result of impact? “Tapping” or “Banging” would describe two solid metallic parts directly impacting each other. These are usually fairly easy to identify since there really aren’t many places that can happen. In the engine, the pistons can directly impact the head or crankshaft, and the rocker arms and associated valve train can have direct impact. Since the valve train operates at half the speed of the engine, you can hear a difference in speed and narrow it down. (tip: remove the oil filler cap in the valve cover and listen to the valves operate to hear half-engine speed) If it’s in the engine or accessories, it’ll happen with the vehicle sitting still and the motor running. If it happens while you’re driving, note if it’s aggravated by bumps and which corner hitting the bump aggravates it most.
    B. Does it squeal? “Eek-eek-eek” would describe a rotational noise that’s metal-on-metal. Usually it’s a bearing. The rate of change of the speed of the noise (as well as your directional hearing sense) will point you to the location of the bearing. So if it’s a road-speed eek-eek, it’s probably a wheel bearing. An eek-eek that varies with engine speed is probably an accessory bearing, often the alternator. A word of caution here: bearing eek-eeks often disappear when the bearing gets hot, so the disappearance of the eek-eek is not a good sign.
    C. Does it thunk? They’re usually isolated and not regular. If you can make it thunk by hitting a bump with a certain corner of the car, it’s a shock absorber. If you can make it thunk by hitting the throttle, it’s a motor or transmission mount. If it thunk-thunk-thunks at road speed, you’re probably losing a tire tread.
    D. Does it click? Chipped or broken gears click. Transmission or axle gears, depending on where you hear it coming from.
    E. Does it whine or even howl? Feed it or leave it home the next time you go out. Gears whine too. Usually the sound will change significantly on-throttle versus off-throttle. That’s never a good sound, but check yer freakin’ fluid level where the noise is coming from now! You’ve probably sprung a leak or gone dry. If you do it RIGHT NOW you might save those gears!
    F. Does it pop? Pops are the result of explosions. IE, valves in the engine open at the wrong time or not opening at all. Often accompanied by tapping because of a rocker arm problem. It can pop out the intake (burp) or exhaust end (fart). Either way, it’s a pretty serious engine problem. UNLESS…one of your joker friends swapped some spark plug wires while you weren’t looking. Death threats often uncover or cause such behavior.
    G. Does it vibrate? Everybody knows the vibration of a flat or out-of-balance tire. How about a vibration at four times that rate? That’s probably a driveshaft, bent or with a bad u-joint. Usually isn’t accompanied by noise, but we’ll include it here, and who could hear it anyway over all the other squeaks and rattles and flapping of the top?

    TIPS:
    1. Place a long screwdriver, dowel, or mechanic’s stethoscope (get one on your next trip to Harbor Freight) against your ear and the various parts of a running engine to hear normal operating noises. Try the valve cover, crankcase, alternator, power steering pump, and air conditioner compressor. Caution: Don’t touch any moving parts or wiring!
    2. Tie a piece of nylon strap to a u-joint yoke just long enough to strike a frame rail, spring, exhaust pipe, or other part, and drive a bit. You’ll hear it slap against the part at about 4 times road speed. You may have to turn off the motor and coast to hear it. You can do this with a strap tied to a wheel spoke to hear road speed rotation. Keep it fairly slow or the strap will just coil up.

    So to summarize, now you can call your mechanic and tell him: “I’ve got a four-times road speed eek-eek in the rear. Whaddyathink?” To which he can reply: “Sounds like a bad pinion bearing. Check your gear lube. Drive slow with steady throttle. Watch for leakage at the rear of the driveshaft. If it gets worse, get it towed. Bring it to me in the morning.”



    Bruce Bogart, AKA “Pappy”, has been swappin’ lies around the campfire for over twenty years. He’s the inventor of the Plugzit and Starterita. After 45 years with cars of every description and ten trips across the Rubicon, he’s surely heard every bent and broken part imaginable. Although he’s become something of a recluse, he still enjoys hearing new lies and war stories at [email protected].
     
  3. Extreme

    Extreme F1 Rookie

    May 26, 2010
    2,515
    Northern Utah
    Full Name:
    Erick
    So you took it to the dealer? What did they think it was?
     
  4. JDG16

    JDG16 Karting

    Jul 25, 2011
    200
    Houston
    Full Name:
    Justin
    thanks for the article... I don't like it because it sounds most like the valve train! But I doubt its that since it only happens in third gear when the gear is engaged. If i put in the clutch it completely stops.

    The dealer said they won't have a chance to look at it until Monday. Wanted to run the codes/drive it before they would give me a guess.
     
  5. plugzit

    plugzit F1 Veteran
    Silver Subscribed

    Dec 1, 2004
    7,755
    Redondo Beach, CA
    Full Name:
    Bruce Bogart
    Listen to both cats on the driver's side with your ear to a dowel and the motor running. Particular attention to the bypass cat. Hear anything?
     

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